Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Got a Cheetah Hull - Help with setup appreciated.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Fl
    Posts
    96

    Post Got a Cheetah Hull - Help with setup appreciated.

    Just picked up a new Cheetah Hull (34 inch twin) that came with basic hardware already mounted. I have been looking at the forums and see many different setups used. My use will be racing on our 1/8th mile oval where we run four lap races unless I miss a buoy? Most of my experience is with monos and this seems way different. It looks like a guy could make lots of expensive mistakes before he got it right.

    Questions - does the hull need to strengthened - Have used Z-Poxy before? TP4050 motors anywhere from 1570Kv up to 2200Kv seem popular. I would guess that would depend on what size props you would like to use. I also saw Neu 1512s at 2650 Kv - ESCs - I guess that depends on what becomes the motor of choice? Some of the info I read says that using the stock rudder does not work and you need a six inch long one to make it turn?

    Two things I noticed about this hull - 1) pushing down on the left rear corner raises the right front maybe a hair less than 1/8th inch and
    2) The port strut is down dead level with the bottom of the hull and the starboard is raised about 2-3 mm above the hull bottom line. How bad are these two or can they be lived with.

    I would appreciate any suggestions from guys who have been there and done that and who knows if I do not have to do everything two or three times I may be able to get out of this without bringing down the wrath of the book-keeper of the house who actually does have a sense of humor!!

    Thanks .......

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    7,629

    Default

    I have never built a Cheetah but have a lot of twin cat experience. Is this a CF hull or FG? On your ‘struts’ are they struts or stingers? If they are struts you can adjust the em to even the heights out but stingers you would have to remove them and adjust the mounting holes. Both sides should be equal in height in relation to the ride surface.

    Shawn

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Fl
    Posts
    96

    Default

    Shawn - to show you my ignorance I am not sure what you mean by CF hull - I would guess Carbon Fiber and the other is fiberglass. This is a Fiberglass TFL hull with the kevlar carbon fiber inlay. Leveling them out will be
    an ugly task but you are probably right on the money as this is a stinger stern. What I probably will do is try running it - I have two TP 4050 2310Kv motors that i will try out - and see how it handles and if it doesn't then I will
    have to do it. So far my only twin cat experience is with a Zelo"s 36" that has upgraded motors and props so most of the work was already done when I got it new.

    Mike

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    7,629

    Default

    You are correct, CF= carbon fibre and FG is fibre glass. And in your case GFK =glass fibre Kevlar. This hull(yours) should be fine as is. Yes the stingers should be the same in relation to running surface. Sounds like you may be able to round out the holes to get it to match. Just remember to dab some silicone when reinstalling the stinger.
    The rocking of the hull on the table suggests possibly epoxy’ing some ply or FG to the right front runner. If you are wanting to race oval then you would want the onboard sponson possibly deeper in the water or at least even. The opposite may cause tripping or rolling over.

    But in all honesty, run it and see how it is. If it exhibits any of the bad tendencies then you should do the aforementioned things. Nothing hard about these and I’d be glad to help.

    You should have seen my Fantasm (Zonda) hull when I got it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Fl
    Posts
    96

    Default

    I believe I will do that and set it up to run and see what she does. I would for sure take some advice about leveling the hull as I have NO experience at all with that operation. Also rounding out or "dragging" the holes may be just the thing.
    I was thinking that I would have to fill the originals with JB weld and redrill but I think you are right on the money there.

    Thanks Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    6,181

    Default

    TP 4060 - 5D
    Giant Power 4s2p (4000mah x 2)
    ABC 2015-17-45 prop
    Noisy person

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Fl
    Posts
    96

    Default

    I have seen that before - does it mean something that I should know about? if its something I should be doing let me know what brand is best!

    TP 4060 5D Does the D rating make a difference. As I have seen in the forum it is best not to time a D wind more than 0 or 3.5 degrees?
    ...and I thank you for your reply Mike

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •