Delta Force 33 won't get up on plane

[stadiumyamaha]

Paul, what parts of texas are you in? If in DFW I have some extra gear we could use to try and diagnose your issue. I think its your batteries myself. Sounds exactly like a cell that drops voltage under a load.

[jester_s1]

I'm in DFW too, Lake Worth in northwest Fort Worth to be exact. I usually run boats at Camp Joy park on Lake Worth. How about you?

[stadiumyamaha]

I'm in keller, not far from you. Your over near river oaks?

[jester_s1]

Yes, a bit closer to you than River Oaks.

I resoldered all of the battery connections this evening. I had found one battery with cold joints, so I just went ahead and redid them all making sure they were hot enough. The little 25 watt iron is marginal for this. I also found that a motor mount screw had come loose, which I supposed could have caused some friction from misalignment. I'll go give it another shot tomorrow. If it still doesn't work, I'd love to take you up on the offer of help. Even if it does work, it would be fun to get together with another boater.

[stadiumyamaha]

Keep me posted.

[jester_s1]

I just wanted to let you guys know I finally got a successful run on my boat yesterday. It still needs some trimming and the cooling isn't good enough, but it's fast and stable. Thanks to all who helped.

[gearhd48]

For what it's worth this was my fix to make sure all was cool on my df 35. DSC_0018.jpg

[gearhd48]

For what it's worth this was my fix to keeping things cool. DSC_0018.jpgDSC_0018.jpg

[jester_s1]

I may need to go that route. I'm going to see if modding the single intake is enough to get the job done first though.

[rol243]

I have a delta 33 running on 4s with a 2200 kv motor / 180 esc and swinging a cnc 4214 x 3 blade. all runs cool with the single rudder intake.

[785boats]

Attachment 160658

This is the interior layout of my boat. It had Deans connectors on it when I got it, so I upgraded to 6mm OSE connectors. In case it's not clear, the cooling goes to the ESC, then the motor. I used all medium diameter tubing, and there are no kinks. The cooling water exiting the hull was squirting out several inches when I made a part throttle pass just to check it.

Norwest- Could bad solder joints on the battery connectors cause overheating? I've heard of bad joints on the motor connectors doing that because they'll mess up the timing, but all I've ever heard of bad battery connections doing is making the connectors get hot. Or do you mean that overheating connectors could cause a low voltage condition? I did find one bad solder joint on a battery that I wasn't using in the test run but I did solder it at the same time I soldered the others. I'm going through them all now and making sure they are good.

Zooma- The boat was doing the low RPM get back to shore response to the throttle for a couple of minutes, then when I tried it on the bench it went to full throttle as normal. I assumed that meant heat, since it had had time to cool. Wouldn't a low voltage cutoff only reduce the power when the batteries show a problem under load and then recover immediately when they come back up? Also, I use these batteries in my Associated SC10, which is a fairly demanding power system too. I've never had a voltage drop in that application.

Jester.
From what I can see in that photo, you have the water outlet on the motor jacket underneath. The widely accepted position for it is at the highest position on the jacket. IE, in the 12 o'clock position.
This ensures that the jacket is full when under pressure. In your setup the jacket could be half empty. The water would flow from the low input at the front of the jacket to the low exit at the rear.
Rotate the jacket so that the outlet is in the 12 o'clock position. This will definitely reduce the temps on the motor.
I tend to bypass the cooling on the motor mount in my boats too. It doesn't do much. I also use 4mm internal diameter tubing to allow better water flow.

[CraigP]

I use a thrust bearing on the motor and have the motor mount cooling in there to help keep the bearing cool. I would also remove it if I wasn’t running thrust bearings in my boats...

[gearhd48]

It could very well be the batteries! I have a 3s and all cell #'s show good, But it's 3yrs old and I get the same problem. If I put in my 1yr old 3s it goes well for 6 min. I'm thinking maybe a low amperage issue with battery....

[stadiumyamaha]

A bad cell can show fine while idle but when under a load will drop voltage dramatically. If you have a voltage checker, you can hook it up and use a 12v light bulb hooked up with jumpers to the battery. If you check cells individually and one drops lower than the rest then you have a bad cell.
Again, again, your setup is so mild that if everything was in order you could almost get away without any cooling at all. Wouldn't advise it though.

[Norwest]

delete please.

[stadiumyamaha]

I use automotive bulbs that have tabs you can use alligator clips on.

[rol243]

you can purchase good dischargers / battery tester units for around $10 that also balance each cell whilst discharging the pack to storage levels of your selected voltage level.

[Norwest]

Delete please.!

[gearhd48]

Why not? your body temp is 98.6! LOL

[CraigP]

Delete please.!

Delete what?! Why?!

[Norwest]

//////

[Stillwet]

Delete what?! Why?!

i'm thinking Alec Baldwin HA!
gee CraigP i just stumbled upon this and seems you asked the wrong question (Why?) when i saw the second delete i was puttn' a bald spot on my head scratchn'
Well Norwest answer the question, nobody's here to fool you.

[gearhd48]

I hope you got this fixed, but if not it is your batteries! I just had the same thing happen with my SW26, put a new battery in it and it flew.

[Nick1979]

I know this is an old thread, however I am running into the same issue. Newly built Pirate 35, it won't go on plane. It is very slow and low RPMs. How exactly did you resolve your problem?

[Fluid]

Nick we aren’t mind readers, please give us some information about your build:

- exactly what motor?
- exactly what batteries and how they are wire?
- exactly what ESC?
- exactly what prop?
- what drive, stinger or strut?
- a photo of the transom from the side and back would help.

With more information we can help.



.

[Nick1979]

The problem turned out to be the dummy who set up the boat. He forgot to calibrate the ESC to the transmitter, then ran the boat and got on here to ask why it didn't work. Thanks to all who helped.

Nick we aren?t mind readers, please give us some information about your build:

- exactly what motor?
- exactly what batteries and how they are wire?
- exactly what ESC?
- exactly what prop?
- what drive, stinger or strut?
- a photo of the transom from the side and back would help.

With more information we can help.



.

Sorry, I didn't mean to steal this thread. Motor is Leopard 4082 1450KV, Seaking 180A ESC, 47mm Graupner prop , 3/16" flex shaft, no teflon in a 1/4 tube with a stinger all running on 2x 3S 5000Mah packs in series. It should give the motor around 32,000 unloaded RPMs. I will post a photos as well.

[Fluid]

Your build looks very good. If the packs are fully charged then the issue is most likely in the ESC.

* First, disable the LVC, these ESCs are notorious for LVC failures - just be sure to time your runs.
* Is the ESC calibrated to the transmitter?
* Are the throttle endpoints on the transmitter set to full?
* ESC set with LiPo cells on auto?
* ESC set forward only?
* Timing setting is?

Try the above and see if they help. Let us know either way.


.

[Nick1979]

Thank you for the suggestions.
Here's what I've done so far - I set the "neutral" throttle position as per the instructions of the ESC. I need some help with adjusting the "end points" - how is this done?
I've set the Lipo to 6 cells in the ESC. I did not use the Auto, should I?
Forward only is on. I also tried 0, 15, and 20-something (highest value) on the timing setting when I was on the water. I did not notice a difference since the motor was working at low RPMs and speed was so slow.
I am also noticing a grinding/rubbing noise from the stuffing tube once I squeeze the throttle trigger more than half. Everything is rock solid, I have a very mild bending in the tube, all is plenty lubricated. The flex cable has been polished and is very smooth. I also noticed the tubing is getting warm (friction) after I do a quick rev or two of the motor (in my basement, on the workbench). I am thinking if trying a .150 flex cable with a teflon liner for the 1/4" tube that's already in the boat and see if this makes things better. Current flex cable is 3/16" with no teflon liner. I tried removing the flex cable the motor ran noise free, albeit with low RPM's. The noise issue is clearly in the tube. I also have to figure out the low speed issue. Here is video clip with the issue:
https://youtu.be/h7UEEISYRo0
and here:
https://youtu.be/pHo9cbtohaA

[photohoward1]

If he has a 1/4" tube and a .187 shaft isn't he going to have quite a bit of whip?

[Peter A]

What are you lubing your flex with? Marine grease would be best, and plenty of it, the tube should be full. As far as the throttle speed goes, are you getting full throttle? You might consider fitting trim tabs as well.