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Thread: Trying to cool my esc

  1. #1
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    Default Trying to cool my esc

    Have a twin Zonda as one of my boats,I’ve had cooling issues with it,it has a dual pick up rudder with large diameter tubing,when I put a tube against the exaust port and blow its EZ to blow air back thru the rudder ,I pulled the lines off and checked the motors and ESC to make sure they were clear ,still just a trickle of water comes out the exaust port when I run the boat by,I had an extra rudder so I changed it but no difference ,the ESCs get hot fast,I sprayed some WD 40 inside the exaust ports then blew it out with an air compressor and it all blew right out the rudder ,I’m really at a loss as to what to do to get water to flow ,help please ,thanks ,

  2. #2
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    does the rudder water pick up have a decent opening for water intake ? no restrictions inside the rudder tube ? can you show a pic of the set up ?

  3. #3
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    Both rudders look the same ,intake holes are small ,I’ll try and figure out how to post a pic but it’s the same dual intake at the OSE store,I looked for a better rudder but didn’t find one ,thanks ,

  4. #4
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    Detail the rudder holes. Take a round file and make the slot before the hole longer and deeper. It will pick up more water. Drill your fitting out a size or two. Chamfer (round or bell mouth) all the fittings in the direction of the water flow. In other words where water is coming in, chamfer or radius it there.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  5. #5
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    Btw the easiest and safest way to drill the fittings is to chuck them up in a drill and hold a drill bit in a vice.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  6. #6
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    I just drilled the slots in the rudder by laying the drill bit flat on the rudder and drilling the holes a bit larger ,I’ll see if it works today,I noticed when blowing thru a red cooling cover for a leopard motor lots of volume flows EZ ,not so much on the black ones that come with the TP motors ,I think that’s the restriction,

  7. #7
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    What size water lines youre using?
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
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  8. #8
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    The large diameter black tube ,didn’t make it out to the lake today ,I’m thinking the motor jackets are the problem but what a pain to get them out ,

  9. #9
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    If you atleast getting a trickle of water exiting the motor / esc, that should be enough to keep both cool i would think, a constant trickle means cool water is flowing in and out so maybe its not a water cooling issue atall .

  10. #10
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    Maybe your nipple connectors are too small in diameter somewhere? Maybe at the rudder, or maybe at the motor, etc.

    You can drill them a size or 2 more in diameter... see if that helps any.

    You can also go the option of adding a water pump. Theres a really great mini 6v water pump that is made in japan that I found on ebay that only weighs like 50 grams or so. PM me and I'll get you the link to it if you want.
    Every guy that runs an RC boat in Europe uses a pump... so its not that usual as you may think. I run them on all my cats now.

  11. #11
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    Again a picture would be very helpfull I'm also using a water pump inline in my twin rigger that helps a lot specially here where temps are hot year round.
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
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  12. #12
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    I don’t want to sound silly but I don’t know how to post a pic ,and I don’t know what I would show you,The one thing I’ve found that really stands out is the difference in restriction when blowing thru a water jacket on a TP motor and a red one on a leopard motor ,since the water hits the motor first it gets restricted right there,well actually it could hit the motor last and cause the same flow restriction,before I drill any fittings out,and probably ruin a few,I need to remove the motors and check the water jackets,I’m really interested in a water pump ,thanks guys ,

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    Every guy that runs an RC boat in Europe uses a pump... so its not that usual as you may think. I run them on all my cats now.
    That is not true, I live in the UK and have raced in Europe, against people from all over Europe, and have only ever seen 1 boat with a water pump, and that was a high volume low pressure pump fitted to a sponson to make the rigger self-right on command, it wasn't even connected to the cooling system.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  14. #14
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    There are many good micro water pumps brands like TCS from Uk: http://www.micropumps.co.uk/TCSM400range.htm
    but I'm using this one sucessfully:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Subm...wAAOSwyXNaQaDC
    Gill
    GO FAST AND TURN RIGHT !
    www.grsboats.com.br

  15. #15
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    Got my water pump today ,way cool,hooked it up all different ways and it pumps just fine ,I’m going to put it up in the nose ,run double suction lines from the dual rudder,then feed back thru the ESC ,meter and out ,tried it on the bench and it had great volume ,

  16. #16
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    the pump will be fine with its pickups on the rudder But will water still flow through if the pump should stop working ? not sure if i would feel safe having the pump set up like that , maybe something like a seperate under hull pick up or use just 1 of the rudder pickups for pump and the other pickup for normal force feed. Gil [ grsboats ] uses the pumps so better to find out how he sets his up. PM

  17. #17
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    I've only had one TP motor but I noticed the water jacket is almost too tight of a fit, there is a very small gap for the water to squeeze between the motor and cooler. TP motors run strong but I'm not a fan of the water jackets.

  18. #18
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    rol243: diagraphm pumps can pass water even without water...

    grsboats: you should try the one I have, its a diagraphm weighs only 30grams and has really great pressure. $5 also. I think it would probably be comparable to a TCS

  19. #19
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    One benefit of a pump is you can see water flow as soon as the boat is in the water ,no even moving ,and at very slow passes ,so you can slow way down to do an inspection pass and see lots of water flowing ,this will also cool off your electronics faster in that they aren’t working very hard ,with a conventional system when you slow the boat down the water almost stops flowing ,on my 48” boat the hull pick up supplied only the ESC,and it failed on my 2 nd set of batteries,I don’t really know why,it ran 38 seconds,and shut off,then the caps started going up in flames,I wasn’t watching the water outlets,my fault,checking after the fact there was nothing plugging the line,so I’m ready to give pumps a try,

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    rol243: diagraphm pumps can pass water even without water...

    grsboats: you should try the one I have, its a diagraphm weighs only 30grams and has really great pressure. $5 also. I think it would probably be comparable to a TCS
    Post a link!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MG1234 View Post
    One benefit of a pump is you can see water flow as soon as the boat is in the water ,no even moving ,and at very slow passes ,so you can slow way down to do an inspection pass and see lots of water flowing ,this will also cool off your electronics faster in that they aren’t working very hard ,with a conventional system when you slow the boat down the water almost stops flowing ,on my 48” boat the hull pick up supplied only the ESC,and it failed on my 2 nd set of batteries,I don’t really know why,it ran 38 seconds,and shut off,then the caps started going up in flames,I wasn’t watching the water outlets,my fault,checking after the fact there was nothing plugging the line,so I’m ready to give pumps a try,
    If it ran 38 seconds no amount of water flow would have helped that. You had something wrong. Way wrong. I’ve run boats with no water flow, the setups were reliable with water flow. I blocked the water flow purposely for some testing purposes and ran the boat for about a minute and it was barely hotter than it was normally with correct water flow. So do know if you run the same setup with whatever issue you had, I don’t think that a pump will fix that. Now, I’ve purchased a few pumps that I was going to try in a saw boat I have but I really never needed to do it because it lives just fine without it. Still would be neat though to have it on a third channel and be able to cut it on from the transmitter.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  22. #22
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    Well I’m not the kind of guy who never makes mistakes ,if I made one hooking up that boat for the 4 th time that weekend I don’t know what it is ,it wouldn’t have ran if the batteries were wired wrong ,but that boat isn’t getting a pump ,the smaller 36” boats are,just ran that little pump thru a twin with TP motors and sea king ESC,ran it thru one side then the other with one outlet,incredible water flow ,this boat would never run cool ,so looking forward to this idea working ,

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  24. #24
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    search for nidec 6v pump. make sure its 6v version and not the 12v ones that look similar.

  25. #25
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    For my water cooling system i make sure there is over size water pick -up opening on the the rudder and gentle bends in the water lines with first connection made at the esc then cool the water jacket on the motor i then test the cooling system with a syringe full of water as it is pushed through there should be very little resitance. That being said with the boat travelling at more then 25 mph there should be a fairly consistant stream of water. In the 25 yrs of fe boating never heard anyone using an external water pump ! Regards Andris Golts.

  26. #26
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    Pumps are typically used for SAW setups... I don't know of anyone on German forums that don't use them. I don't see why its so hard to believe that having a small 30g pump would make a diff temp wise before and after a SAW pass. Temps typically shoot up right after a pass... and you want to keep the water moving -- not boiling up your electronics.

    Probably wouldn't make sense for some heat racing guys

  27. #27
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    I could see a waterpump used on Jorgs 160 mph rigger but MG 1234 made no mention of a saw set-up. Regards Andris Golts.

  28. #28
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    I just run 36” cats,singles and twins,my Zonda has TP motors and they have never had good water flow ,I start at the rudder,I’ve drilled out the hose barbs and the holes on the pick up on the bottom ,it’s a dual pick up,ran large diameter hose,hit the motor first because it’s closest,then the ESC,the exaust port is close to the ESC towards the front of the boat ,each side is the same as it’s a twin,I didn’t try pushing water thru it but I do see how restricted it is by blowing EZ on a tube ,then I work to get things as smooth as possible,my only boat that runs cool is a hopped up spartan with a giant rudder on it ,I went looking for a larger dual pickup rudder for my other boats but didn’t find anything,thanks for the help,

  29. #29
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    I hate the term “cool”, it means different things to different people. It confuses folks, who may think that there is something wrong with their boat if the motor feels “warm”. How can a motor running in 95*F Texas water be “cool” after running WOT for two minutes? Is “cool” under 100*F? Under 125*? How hot is “hot”? Over 140*? Over 160*? Where is the conversion chart?

    This is why a digital thermomoeter should be part of every boaters toolkit. We worry about the voltages and amps we use, we should report temperatures in degrees, not “hot” or “cool”.


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    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    I hate the term “cool”, it means different things to different people. It confuses folks, who may think that there is something wrong with their boat if the motor feels “warm”. How can a motor running in 95*F Texas water be “cool” after running WOT for two minutes? Is “cool” under 100*F? Under 125*? How hot is “hot”? Over 140*? Over 160*? Where is the conversion chart?

    This is why a digital thermomoeter should be part of every boaters toolkit. We worry about the voltages and amps we use, we should report temperatures in degrees, not “hot” or “cool”.


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    :)



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    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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