Trying to cool my esc

[rol243]

the pump will be fine with its pickups on the rudder But will water still flow through if the pump should stop working ? not sure if i would feel safe having the pump set up like that , maybe something like a seperate under hull pick up or use just 1 of the rudder pickups for pump and the other pickup for normal force feed. Gil [ grsboats ] uses the pumps so better to find out how he sets his up. PM

[TheShaughnessy]

I've only had one TP motor but I noticed the water jacket is almost too tight of a fit, there is a very small gap for the water to squeeze between the motor and cooler. TP motors run strong but I'm not a fan of the water jackets.

[dmitry100]

rol243: diagraphm pumps can pass water even without water...

grsboats: you should try the one I have, its a diagraphm weighs only 30grams and has really great pressure. $5 also. I think it would probably be comparable to a TCS

[MG1234]

One benefit of a pump is you can see water flow as soon as the boat is in the water ,no even moving ,and at very slow passes ,so you can slow way down to do an inspection pass and see lots of water flowing ,this will also cool off your electronics faster in that they aren’t working very hard ,with a conventional system when you slow the boat down the water almost stops flowing ,on my 48” boat the hull pick up supplied only the ESC,and it failed on my 2 nd set of batteries,I don’t really know why,it ran 38 seconds,and shut off,then the caps started going up in flames,I wasn’t watching the water outlets,my fault,checking after the fact there was nothing plugging the line,so I’m ready to give pumps a try,

[Mike W]

rol243: diagraphm pumps can pass water even without water...

grsboats: you should try the one I have, its a diagraphm weighs only 30grams and has really great pressure. $5 also. I think it would probably be comparable to a TCS

Post a link!

[kfxguy]

One benefit of a pump is you can see water flow as soon as the boat is in the water ,no even moving ,and at very slow passes ,so you can slow way down to do an inspection pass and see lots of water flowing ,this will also cool off your electronics faster in that they aren’t working very hard ,with a conventional system when you slow the boat down the water almost stops flowing ,on my 48” boat the hull pick up supplied only the ESC,and it failed on my 2 nd set of batteries,I don’t really know why,it ran 38 seconds,and shut off,then the caps started going up in flames,I wasn’t watching the water outlets,my fault,checking after the fact there was nothing plugging the line,so I’m ready to give pumps a try,

If it ran 38 seconds no amount of water flow would have helped that. You had something wrong. Way wrong. I’ve run boats with no water flow, the setups were reliable with water flow. I blocked the water flow purposely for some testing purposes and ran the boat for about a minute and it was barely hotter than it was normally with correct water flow. So do know if you run the same setup with whatever issue you had, I don’t think that a pump will fix that. Now, I’ve purchased a few pumps that I was going to try in a saw boat I have but I really never needed to do it because it lives just fine without it. Still would be neat though to have it on a third channel and be able to cut it on from the transmitter.

[MG1234]

Well I’m not the kind of guy who never makes mistakes ,if I made one hooking up that boat for the 4 th time that weekend I don’t know what it is ,it wouldn’t have ran if the batteries were wired wrong ,but that boat isn’t getting a pump ,the smaller 36” boats are,just ran that little pump thru a twin with TP motors and sea king ESC,ran it thru one side then the other with one outlet,incredible water flow ,this boat would never run cool ,so looking forward to this idea working ,

[Mike W]

Something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC4V-6V-150L-H-Micro-Brushless-Submersible-Water-Pump-Motor-Cooling-Pump-USB-GD/142422266262?hash=item2129075196:g:EuwAAOSwyWZZSzxs

[dmitry100]

search for nidec 6v pump. make sure its 6v version and not the 12v ones that look similar.

[Andris Golts]

For my water cooling system i make sure there is over size water pick -up opening on the the rudder and gentle bends in the water lines with first connection made at the esc then cool the water jacket on the motor i then test the cooling system with a syringe full of water as it is pushed through there should be very little resitance. That being said with the boat travelling at more then 25 mph there should be a fairly consistant stream of water. In the 25 yrs of fe boating never heard anyone using an external water pump ! Regards Andris Golts.

[dmitry100]

Pumps are typically used for SAW setups... I don't know of anyone on German forums that don't use them. I don't see why its so hard to believe that having a small 30g pump would make a diff temp wise before and after a SAW pass. Temps typically shoot up right after a pass... and you want to keep the water moving -- not boiling up your electronics.

Probably wouldn't make sense for some heat racing guys

[Andris Golts]

I could see a waterpump used on Jorgs 160 mph rigger but MG 1234 made no mention of a saw set-up. Regards Andris Golts.

[MG1234]

I just run 36” cats,singles and twins,my Zonda has TP motors and they have never had good water flow ,I start at the rudder,I’ve drilled out the hose barbs and the holes on the pick up on the bottom ,it’s a dual pick up,ran large diameter hose,hit the motor first because it’s closest,then the ESC,the exaust port is close to the ESC towards the front of the boat ,each side is the same as it’s a twin,I didn’t try pushing water thru it but I do see how restricted it is by blowing EZ on a tube ,then I work to get things as smooth as possible,my only boat that runs cool is a hopped up spartan with a giant rudder on it ,I went looking for a larger dual pickup rudder for my other boats but didn’t find anything,thanks for the help,

[Fluid]

I hate the term “cool”, it means different things to different people. It confuses folks, who may think that there is something wrong with their boat if the motor feels “warm”. How can a motor running in 95*F Texas water be “cool” after running WOT for two minutes? Is “cool” under 100*F? Under 125*? How hot is “hot”? Over 140*? Over 160*? Where is the conversion chart?

This is why a digital thermomoeter should be part of every boaters toolkit. We worry about the voltages and amps we use, we should report temperatures in degrees, not “hot” or “cool”.


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[kfxguy]

I hate the term “cool”, it means different things to different people. It confuses folks, who may think that there is something wrong with their boat if the motor feels “warm”. How can a motor running in 95*F Texas water be “cool” after running WOT for two minutes? Is “cool” under 100*F? Under 125*? How hot is “hot”? Over 140*? Over 160*? Where is the conversion chart?

This is why a digital thermomoeter should be part of every boaters toolkit. We worry about the voltages and amps we use, we should report temperatures in degrees, not “hot” or “cool”.


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