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Thread: Rebuild ‘67 Miss Bardahl

  1. #1

    Default Rebuild 1/8 ‘67 Miss Bardahl

    I bought the hull off jevmax. From what he told me is that someone built it, ran it...esc fried taking everything with it. Then sold it, Jim bought it... it sat and then I bought it.

    Plans so far
    -RC boat company 1/8th scale roundnose hull
    -Speedmaster rudder -Ordered.
    -Zippkit large turn fin or maybe Mojo turnfin -Zippkit fin Ordered
    -ZTW 200a esc -Ordered
    -H.E.T. Typhoon 700-98 840kv motor -Ordered
    -Gaint power 2x 4s lipos
    -Scale motor
    -Misc hardware


    For whatever reason they left the brackets, but no rudder or turn fin? Ordered those and got them Installed.


    Last edited by eric113; 05-10-2018 at 01:11 PM.

  2. #2

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    Next I cleaned the inside hull out. It still smelled like fried eletricronics, I let it air out for a few weeks. Then I started to wipe it down with denatured alcohol, there was nasty film all over the inside of the
    hull.

    Before

    After. Smells lot better too.


    I need to make a wedge and pick up some west marine epoxy for the stuffing tube, it long and unsupported.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    CO
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    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  4. #4

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    While back got the rudder and turn fin mounted.



    I got the motor, and esc in.


    Today, spent time mounting the motor and getting the motor mount lined up perfect. I also got the thrust bearing and coupler installed.


    I also mocked up the esc. This where I need little help, the motor wires will reach but battery wires will not. Which wires would be best to make longer?

  5. #5

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    Put the esc up by the motor and move the batteries under the deck and move servo to rudder up where shaft goes thru hull. Keep as much weight off strut and prop as possible.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by eric113 View Post
    While back got the rudder and turn fin mounted.



    I got the motor, and esc in.


    Today, spent time mounting the motor and getting the motor mount lined up perfect. I also got the thrust bearing and coupler installed.


    I also mocked up the esc. This where I need little help, the motor wires will reach but battery wires will not. Which wires would be best to make longer?
    Looking good Eric. Looking forward to seeing her run!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by leonard feeback View Post
    Put the esc up by the motor and move the batteries under the deck and move servo to rudder up where shaft goes thru hull. Keep as much weight off strut and prop as possible.
    I hate to cut out the front where the batteries set now. I feel like it weaken the hull alot. It has cutout underneath for added floatation. So for now I going to try out the current layout.
    Quote Originally Posted by jevmax View Post
    Looking good Eric. Looking forward to seeing her run!
    Thanks Jim.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Great boat! That will be awesome to run! I recommend you cut about 1/2” off the stuffing tube at the coupler. I personally feel that longer motor wires are less detrimental than longer battery wires. The motor wires carry an AC current, the batt wires are DC. AC runs over wires easier than DC. Just one man’s opinion...

  9. #9
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    If you need to run longer batt wires, then install a cap Bank halfway thru the run to the ESC and be sure you got plenty of cap at the ESC. That will help decouple the AC ripple content on those DC wires. Please post pics, this was my favorite Unlimited! Billy Schumacher drove for my Dad’s boat, the Parco’s O-Ring Miss. we called him The Shu!

  10. #10
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    Also, you might find that the shovel nose works better with a straight fin, set at about 15-20 degree of lean. The curved fins can suck that inside sponson too much. Easy to see when you get her out on the water.

  11. #11

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    I do plan on cutting .5” off the stuffing tube. Everything is just mock up. If I leave the esc where it is I will have no choice but to extend the battery wires. Any recommendations on caps bank for 8s? If I do what Leonard suggested I would have to extend the motor wires. But I would have to cut on the hull to be able to move the batteries forward to front. Strengthen wise I don’t know, because it been cut out on the bottom for added floatation.
    I will try out the turn fin that I have now, if doesn’t work I will find a straight blade fin.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Ose has a heifi Cap Bank, listed as Product ID hef-h#0005

    This will work great!

  13. #13

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    Made a order to OSE, Progressive Rc, Mojo racing.

    I got the cap bank that Craig recommended. I also ordered 10G wire, bullet connectors 6mm for the batteries and 8mm for motor. Got it all soldered up.

    Soldered the 8mm bullets on the motor also. I cut down the stuffing tube. Made a wooden wedge for supporting the stuffing tube, just need to epoxy it in



    It getting closer of being up and running.
    I still need to get
    - Scale motor
    - Receiver
    - Biggest expense... Lipos.

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