Flex Shaft Lube

[TomG]

What does everyone us to lube the stuffing box tube, flex shaft & strut bushing

[Beaux]

I use wheel bearing grease from auto parts store.

[martin]

You can also use outboard grease or Aquacraft Speed Grease & Proboat Marine Grease, both of which are very good.

[NativePaul]

I use WD40 PTFE lubricant which comes in a spray can with shielded button that is hard to accidentally press, and has a smart straw for direct aplication, that can't be lost. I have used various thin machine oils in the past and they all work fine for my uses (flexies with liners, wires with short stuffing tubes, ball raced struts), but the caps always come off the long spouts on bottles, or the syringe leaks and soaks my bag, I have tried another spray oils but lose the application straw too easily, and while cans dont leak sometimes the button gets pressed in a bag and you get an unwanted squirt. To me the smart straw and shielded button is key.

[CraigP]

I use a Proboat Marine Grease with 3 in 1 oil. I love the Proboat applicator, it is 3/16” diameter tip fits perfect into the back of my lip sealed struts! I first put in some 3 in 1 oil, then some Proboat grease. I pack that into the stuffing tube, then more 3 in 1 and grease. I coat the flex shaft with the grease by hand, making sure the stranded surface is coated well. Then, put some oil on that. Then, I start putting in the flex shaft while holding my finger firmly over the exit of the stuffing tube at the motor coupling. This forces the grease to hydraulic backwards. Once the 3/16” prop shaft hits the seal, then it pressures up. I release the pressure slowly, then clean the end of the flex shaft with acetone on a rag as it goes into the motor coupling. The lip seal I use prevents grease loss while running and keeps water out, so I only go thru this after about 20-25 runs... the grease and that oil gives just the right viscosity!

[dmitry100]

Gear Oil

[martin]

Chainsaw bar oil also works well, as its a sticky oil.

[30nitro]

Husqvarna chainsaw bar lube....used it for years...Pricey but works super...much better than cheaper bar oils.....

[grsboats]

silicone oil

[kfxguy]

Anything sticky is more drag. I use graphite based Honda cv joint grease. Then for maintenance on the next two lube sessions I use 0w20 synthetic motor oil with LOTS of graphite powder mixed in. I guarantee you’ll see an increase in top speed. White lithium grease works very well too. You could mix in some graphite powder with it too.

[Shooter]

I've been running silicone oil with teflon liners for years. Smooth, fast, low resistance, water repellent, and NO MESS whatsoever when done right. I don't get why everyone likes to run large clearance metal on metal contact with gobs of messy grease. The noise alone tells you something ain't right!

[kfxguy]

I've been running silicone oil with teflon liners for years. Smooth, fast, low resistance, water repellent, and NO MESS whatsoever when done right. I don't get why everyone likes to run large clearance metal on metal contact with gobs of messy grease. The noise alone tells you something ain't right!

Have you ever ran the size brass that a flex just slips into?

[nata2run]

There are many theories out there and most will get you going. All the above mentioned works well. I’m not a fan of metal to metal, so I use a thick walled Teflon. Teflon it self is s lubricant and don’t really require supporting lubricant the key is to not have parts grinding. Grinding parts create heat and also loss of power, and unnecessary currant draw. Bearings like oil so that’s mainly what I use. Graphite based products also works. But all commercial underwater applications in the industrial world uses Teflon brass bushings that when submerged can handle insane speed. So to cut it short, Teflon and a thin lubricant is in my opinion the way to go. It works for all my applications anyway

[Shooter]

Have you ever ran the size brass that a flex just slips into?

Yes, in my experience, it generated more heat than I was comfortable with.

There are many theories out there and most will get you going. All the above mentioned works well. I’m not a fan of metal to metal, so I use a thick walled Teflon. Teflon it self is s lubricant and don’t really require supporting lubricant the key is to not have parts grinding. Grinding parts create heat and also loss of power, and unnecessary currant draw. Bearings like oil so that’s mainly what I use. Graphite based products also works. But all commercial underwater applications in the industrial world uses Teflon brass bushings that when submerged can handle insane speed. So to cut it short, Teflon and a thin lubricant is in my opinion the way to go. It works for all my applications anyway

I think you hit the nail on the head. Alignment is very important and often overlooked. On a J bend application, a quick check can be done by loosening your collet on the motor shaft. Keep it tightened to the flex shaft. Your prop should spin very freely without turning the motor (collect spins on the motor shaft). Any misalignment will cause binding and it will not spin freely.

[jfrancisco892]

I've been running silicone oil with teflon liners for years. Smooth, fast, low resistance, water repellent, and NO MESS whatsoever when done right. I don't get why everyone likes to run large clearance metal on metal contact with gobs of messy grease. The noise alone tells you something ain't right!

Shock oil? What weight? ����

[Shooter]

Shock oil? What weight? ����

That was a beautiful moment.