It's Here!

[ice329]

Steve, this is actually how I found OSE. On some other chat board it was a big thing about the flex and I asked where to find them and someone gave me your sight, the rest is history. But not to steal grims new boats thread, I will be lurking to grab a UL1 as soon as possabe (-;

[alvinsmith75]

Could someone that has a UL-1 in their posession please measure the strut depth and let me know so I can return it to that point.
As for returning the boat to the factory parts......well that's not gonna happen because I damaged the strut bushing upon removal. I ordered a new octura coupler, hughey cable, and Fullers strut from Mr. Fuller. I am changing the coupler simply because the factory one is metric and I wanna keep all of my boats uniform.
I firmly believe that I found the vibration and noise problem. The flex cable isn't soldered into the prop shaft in the center. It's kinda like this -------=== I don't know if my camera will capture it but I'll try later.
Thanks for all of the help guys, I'll keep ya'll posted with progress,
Alvin

[Jeff Wohlt]

Are you saying that the bushing is the stuffing tube? It is all the way thru the strut and the shaft runs inside of the stuffing tube?

[Jeff Wohlt]

We always left about 1.5" of teflon open in front of the strut and the teflon was the only thing in the strut nose. It was much easier to adjust this way. So if you kinked it at the nose of the strut you can cut the brass off and run the teflon in the nose of the strut. You may have to shim the strut nose with KS tubing CA'd in so the teflon stays in...then useshrink tube at the nose and teflon.

Sounds like the bushing is in the stuffing tube which is nothing more than a reducer brass sleeve.

You can change it easily...the stuffing tube only needs to go in the nose of the strut maybe 3/8" and the the bushing should be in the end of the strut running the shaft.

I take it these have a long prop shaft on them like the SV? Really no need for an extra long shaft when 1" or so of shaft in the strut is all that is needed.

[Steven Vaccaro]

The setup I ran in LA was a SAW setup and only usable for a few passes.

Brian can you elaborate on this statement?



Grim I haven't taken apart one of the UL-1's yet or opened set of directions, how does someone go about adjusting a strut with the stuffing tube that goes all the way through it?

[alvinsmith75]

Jeff, the brass tube runs about 1/16th short of the end of the strut and the strut bushing just pushes into the brass tube. Nothing is pressed into the strut. Unfortunately I kinked the brass tube and slightly damaged the strut bushing. Aquacraft (that I can find) doesn't sell just the strut bushing. You have to buy the whole strut mount, strut and bushing for $37.00 if you just need the bushing. That is why I talked to Ray Fuller and am changing everything and setting it up like you mentioned for easier adjustment. Besides that way is the only way I know and on my other boats my drivelines are very quiet and smooth.
Alvin

[Fluid]

OSE sells the strut bushings, although they may - or may not - need to be shortened slightly to fit the UL-1 strut.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdsd-187
Good luck with your project.

Steven, if I may speak for Brian, the 65 mph setup would generate too much heat to run for very long. The motor and ESC tolerated it fine for short durations. This is typical of SAW setups, which can be way over the top compared with oval setups. Since the SAW boat only runs for 2-3 passes lasting ~5 seconds each, there is minimal time for heat buildup. Trying to run a SAW setup for much longer can result in a burned up ESC, motor, or cells.

The strut can be adjusted pretty easily by loosening the bolts and moving the strut where you want it. Leave the cable in the brass tube when adjusting. We are talking minor adjustments here. For larger adjustments you will have to use your fingers to locally bend the brass tube as needed. It is not as difficult as it sounds if you are careful. I have been using this system on most of my new boats (wire and cable) for the past three years and it works great. The gas and nitro guys have used it for many years. On my own boats I make the stuffing tube completely removable so that even major bends in the tube can be made, but I almost never have to do that.

AquaCraft used a state-of-the-art hardware setup proven by hundreds of R/C boaters - why go back to old skool?


.

[Jeff Wohlt]

My shop just ordered one so I will see soon.

My fix....get the brass stuffing tube out of the strut....cut it off 1.5" ahead of the strut and then use a longer piece of teflon and put that in the nose, shrink it with shrink tubing to seal it then use a bushing like the SV to run the shaft in. Then you can easily adjust the strut with out binding the flex shaft any.

Brian's run really has nothing to do with an oval set up for this hull. 30 seconds of pushing this motor/ESC should not be what people strive for or you WILL cook things.

Brians knowledge far exceeds most of ours for setting up hydros...well and I am sure his prop was done by some some guy that has dead chickens hanging around with chantting going on (that's a joke)

Someone tell me if the Stuffing tube OD is .250, please. Also, how long is the shaft from the drive dog to the cable?

I see why Grim had it designed this way and for factory assemly this is probably the easiest for them to do...no problems with that but easy adjustment is the key on a hydro....different water conditions dictate set up. Light in the front is not always good when racing rough water conditions.

So far I am very impressed with the clean layout and how this hull performs from the videos I have seen. The rudder does look to run very deep. I have a tendency to whack rudders off if they are more than 2" under the water when running.

So hats off to Grim for putting the time and knowledge in getting a decent boat made.

The UL has always been a great looking boat...I had plenty of Andy's UL 1s and even layed FG versions that far exceeds the running of the ABS version.

Now someone crack some friggin ice and go run one of these and gives us a report!!

[alvinsmith75]

I should have her in the water no later than tomorrow and I'll try to get some video. I need to run my new DF29 as well. Awesome two brand new boats to test this weekend!!!!!

[Grimracer]

Could someone that has a UL-1 in their posession please measure the strut depth and let me know so I can return it to that point.
As for returning the boat to the factory parts......well that's not gonna happen because I damaged the strut bushing upon removal. I ordered a new octura coupler, hughey cable, and Fullers strut from Mr. Fuller. I am changing the coupler simply because the factory one is metric and I wanna keep all of my boats uniform.
I firmly believe that I found the vibration and noise problem. The flex cable isn't soldered into the prop shaft in the center. It's kinda like this -------=== I don't know if my camera will capture it but I'll try later.
Thanks for all of the help guys, I'll keep ya'll posted with progress,
Alvin

...hum...?

.150 Cable
.187 Stub

Grim

[Grimracer]

"I see why Grim had it designed this way and for factory assemly this is probably the easiest for them to do...no problems with that but easy adjustment is the key on a hydro....different water conditions dictate set up. Light in the front is not always good when racing rough water conditions. "


So wrong so wrong...

O man the FE guys are years behind the nitro guys in hardware setups.. (im going to get BASTED for that one...lol)

O well....

Grim

[alvinsmith75]

...hum...?

.150 Cable
.187 Stub

Grim

If you are referring to what I said is metric I am talking about the wrenches needed to tighten the moter coupler 10 and 12mm.
Thank You,
Alvin

[Darin Jordan]

Guys... WHY in the heck are you thinking you are going to need to be adjusting these struts to the extremes that you are talking about here??

How often do you actually ADJUST the strut once you get the setup right? (I almost NEVER have to once it's set... and then they are MINOR adjustments... If ou are spending all your tuning adjusting the strut, then you are focusing on the wrong part of the system! ) ...

WHY would Mike and AQ design a system that can't be adjusted within the necessary range to get the boat right??? (THEY WOULDN'T!! )

Dang... RELAX until you actually RUN one of the boats... You are worrying about crap that you haven't even TRIED yet!

[alvinsmith75]

I don't like the factory system!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am changing it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is that a problem with anyone??????
Does everyone buy a new vehicle and not customise it at all??..a new stereo, a bug guard, maybe some new rims?
Sorry I accidently kinked the stuffing tube and asked for help. Thanks for the guys that actually did help!

[Jeff Wohlt]

Sorry... guess I do not understand a reason to run a stuffing tube thru the strut and then bush it down for the prop shaft unless it was an assembly issue.

The brass will wear out and get sloppy over time. Is there no way to service this area besides replacing a stuffing tube if something happens...or replace a strut?

My idea is just to allow the strut to be easily adjusted and also able to remove and replace the bearing. No biggie....easy mod. Will hold grease much better and be easier to adjust the strut.

Certainly I am not knocking the design...just an opinion and that has been the way we have seen done for years. It works.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Darin...he tinkered with his and brings up good points.

Alvin, I would be glad to get you what you need. Use the stock strut and I can get you fixed up with a hot set up you will like.

[Grimracer]

Alvin.. really.. you can do anything you like.. your going to do what you want anyway.. No skin off my back.. Please enjoy the boat!

BUT.. this is the same drive system I have won MULTIPLE national and district championships with AS WELL as MANY MANY other people using the same system.

Its proven
It works
Its tough
I dare you to ware it out
Its adjustable with in the limits of the hull.

Customize is one thing but would you yank the 6pack off your road runner and place a 2 barrel on it...? its just not forward progress thats all.. Im not tying to sound mean.. Sorry if I am.

Lets get Alvin rocking and get back to the boat at hand.

Somebody asked.. The stuffing tube is ¼”
Jeff Dude.. you replace the replaceable bushing...and or liner IF it wares out.

Grimracer

[alvinsmith75]

"Also, how long is the shaft from the drive dog to the cable"
Jeff the shaft is 1.5 in. and add .75 in. to that for stiff soldered cable for a total of 2.25in.
Thanks,
Alvin

[alvinsmith75]

Thanks for the support guys. The boat is awesome I just made a mistake adjusting it when I got started and am repairing it the only way I know how:)
Alvin

[Raydee]

The stock drive system sounds like a replica of the Speedmaster system where the stuffing tube runs straight through the strut and then there is a brass bushing that the stub runs through. Am I right?? If that is the case that system works real well, I run that on all my hulls except my DF 33" mono that has a Stinger drive.

[Grimracer]

Alvin

Total Shaft Lenght 13.5"
1 7/16" from the taper of the dog to the solder joint.

More important is.. Give yourself about 7/8" to one inch from the drive dog to the end of the stub for just about prop hub lenght.

Grim

[Grimracer]

Raydee.. yes.. and as it goes I do this on my stinger struts too.

Grim

[Raydee]

Mike, now that I think about it my Speedmaster Stinger uses the same setup

[Jeff Wohlt]

Okay, well it sounds like the bushing is replaceable...I do not say it is a bad system...basically a doube tube with a smaller brass insert to fit the shaft. Nothing wrong with that.

All I am offering is an easier set up that is still used today when you want an easy adjustable strut. Most of us run straight brass in some boats anyway but I still run the brass only so far in the nose.

I realize that you can move the strut a bit but when you do you will need to be careful because you will stress the hull bottom at the tube/hull if you do not actually bend it so there is no pressure on the seal there. You also put angle up at the coupler and flex inducing more resistance if you do not bend the stuffing tube.

Alvin, As far as the flex shaft being wobbly....you may want to re-set it if it is soldered. Heat it (torch) and break it apart and then try to get it straight. Shouod not even need more solder. It may be loctited...I do not know.

Here is what I am talking about on the teflon

http://www.geocities.com/jwohlt5362/Rear_angle.jpg

This one has a little too much open teflon but I never had any issues with it running a plett/12 cells and 642 props

And don't give me any sh-t about it being pink...it is red but came out pink when I shot it on the camera.

[Steven Vaccaro]

WHY would Mike and AQ design a system that can't be adjusted within the necessary range to get the boat right??? (THEY WOULDN'T!! )

Darin don't take this as a bash to you or Grim, but arnt you the guy who posted the areas to fix on the SuperVee? Wasn't one of those areas the adjustable strut that cant be adjusted very much?

Grim I know its been mentioned before, but I have to say it again. Thanks for bringing boats like these to the market. Its totally changed the way we fe boaters think about rtr boats. Keep up the good work. Oh and if your looking for an idea for the next boat, I'm begging for a 28-29" cat!!!!

[Darin Jordan]

Darin don't take this as a bash to you or Grim, but arnt you the guy who posted the areas to fix on the SuperVee? Wasn't one of those areas the adjustable strut that cant be adjusted very much?

EXACTLY... I AM the guy that did that... but ask yourself this... WAS it a "FIX"???

Do you know how many strut adjustements I've done on my SV27 since that time??? NONE! Haven't touched it, and I've won a TON of races with it...

I didn't know then as much as I think I know now, and now I realize that there wasn't any need to change that configuration. It works fine.

I'm not saying NOT to change it... If you want to, by all means... but it's NOT necessary... Again, if you need THAT much adjustment, I think you're working on the wrong part of the boat... This isn't where the big gains are going to be... and the fine tuning wouldn't require much movement at all...

[Steven Vaccaro]

[quote=Darin Jordan;66207]EXACTLY... I AM the guy that did that... but ask yourself this... WAS it a "FIX"???

Do you know how many strut adjustements I've done on my SV27 since that time??? NONE! Haven't touched it, and I've won a TON of races with it...

I didn't know then as much as I think I know now, and now I realize that there wasn't any need to change that configuration. It works fine.
quote]


Since there is no need for the adjustments in your strut and driveshaft in your SV you are more than welcome to send the modified ones back to me for an exchange if you would like to go back to bone stock. I for one will stick with my changes in my sv's. Now this is not any beef with the SV, its just the way I prefer it. Different strokes for different folks!

[Grimracer]

Steven.

Thanks for the good words, We are working hard to bring you guys the FASTEST and best designed RC boats money can buy..

I declare form this day forward.. the UL-1 is not just an RTR.. but a full blown Full Competition Model ..

So.. join with me.. the UL-1 is a Full Competition Model .. RTR is just that.. nothing more.. it’s what the Other Guys Sell….. with your support we can do MUCH BETTER.

..Full Competition Model
..Full Competition Model
..Full Competition Model

Grimracer




... CAT... hum.............MEEEEOW.....

[Doug Smock]

Man, it's a good thing Alvin isn't thin skinned.

[Darin Jordan]

OK... Back on the subject at hand... Apparently, Alvin wants to know how to set the strut to get it close...

Here's how I'd do it... Not knowing what the designed AoA is for the sponsons, I'll assume, knowing Mike and that this is a race boat, that it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-4 degrees...

I'd remove the rudder and turn fin so that the boat will sit on a flat surface. I'd then set the boat on the flat surface, and adjust the strut so that the hull was "level"... Then I'd measure the AoA and adjust the strut as required until I achieved the correct angle on the sponsons, and hence, the correct ride attitude. I'd then leave the strut neutral (no upward or downward angle) until I had a chance to run it... You'll adjust this depending on how much lift you have in your prop... Strut depth may have to be altered slightly as well, but generally, this will put you right in the ballpark.

There IS no magic dimension to get it "right"... it's all going to depend on the prop you use, how it's been modified or not, how much weight you have in your cells... how dense the water is in your area... how rough the water is.... etc...

But... this will get you really close...

Have fun!