It's Here!

[alvinsmith75]

Ordered this boat in October. I line near New Orleans so I say "I can run all winter", when I look outside and say"What is this white stuff falling from the sky and on the ground?". First snow in 4 years and it happens on the day I get my new boat, go figure.





Looks great for the most part. Should only need some minor tweaking. My main objective is to quiet down the driveline and to find out why the teflon liner spins with the flex cable.

[Darin Jordan]

Right ON!

Did the big stickers come on the boat, or did you have to apply them??

[alvinsmith75]

The stickers come attached already. I'll let you know later how difficult they were to remove.

[Grimracer]

Alvin,

Remove and redo the cable greese.. The greese they use is very sticky.. (not a great choice of words)..

Grim

[alvinsmith75]

Darin the stickers come off SOOOO easy. Just lift the corner with your finger nail then it comes off in one piece.
Thanks Grim, I am already past that point and now I need to know how to install a new stuffing tube
The flex cable was not very quiet so I began to disassemble. I found that it was too long so I removed it and shortened it about 1/4 inch. (no problem) I then made myself a gauge for setting the strut depth to 1 and 1/16th inch as Brian said he had done when he ran his. When you push the strut down to 1and a 16th you have some serious down angle. Next I attempted to curve the brass tube to take out some of the negative, and I kinked it. I removed the stuffing tube (which wasn't hard), and I guess now I'm gonna replace the flex, stuffing tube, and strut.
You live and learn.
When I rebuild should the brass tube go into the strut or should I stop it a little short to allow for easier adjustment?
This is my first Hydro so I am sorry if I sound ignorant. I am thankful for the expert advise we have on this forum.
Alvin

[Rex R]

nice to see that some one has theirs...my lhs ordered a white one for me some time back...today they checked and saw late january! so apparently I get to sit around and wait untill feb/march before I get mine.

[ice329]

I am a fan of clean, I really like how clean the water lines look and run. Hats off Grim.. G/L with the boat

[planezero]

Rex according to the webshop Steve has 6 yellow 1 white 5 red 3 orange left in stock. I suppose you could have yours quick if you really wanted...

Bet Dutch customs will hold mine for two or three weeks before I receive it

Alvin what a mess I'd try to 'unkink' the tubing as best I could in a vice and run it anyway snow or no snow (probably very bad advice) Good Luck

[Rex R]

could have done like others and ordered from steven or tower...if I wasn't trying to a) encourage the lhs to carry more boat stuff or b) support my lhs (something ac has said they would like to encourage). thing is my lhs gets their ac stuff from tower...and they have yet to get any confirmation of their orders. guess this is the thanks I get for trying to be nice to the lhs...thanks ac/tower.

[line6]

Looks nice Can you measure how long the battery tray is from the motor mount up thanks.

[planezero]

Sorry to hear that, I buy from Tower as a last resort (stuff Steve doesnt carry).

I'm all for supporting ones LHS, but waiting an extra month or more would be pushing it for me...

Moreover I have little choice here, at my LHS they still charge 400 EUR for an SV27 (somerwhere around $500) which I find slightly ridiculous even considering overseas shipping etc Mention a UL-1 and they won't have a clue what Im talking about...
So I basically just get tools and building supplies from them (man...I buy a lot of that stuff )

[planezero]

Looks nice Can you measure how long the battery tray is from the motor mount up thanks.

The Neu XP4900 are 158mm long, seeing that they fit with a little room to spare Id say thats about it

[egneg]

I ordered my UL1 from tower and it is scheduled (UPS) to be here tomorrow. But then it goes under the tree - so 2 more weeks at least for me.

[planezero]

WOW what self control ... you must be a Saint !

[Grimracer]

Darin the stickers come off SOOOO easy. Just lift the corner with your finger nail then it comes off in one piece.
Thanks Grim, I am already past that point and now I need to know how to install a new stuffing tube
The flex cable was not very quiet so I began to disassemble. I found that it was too long so I removed it and shortened it about 1/4 inch. (no problem) I then made myself a gauge for setting the strut depth to 1 and 1/16th inch as Brian said he had done when he ran his. When you push the strut down to 1and a 16th you have some serious down angle. Next I attempted to curve the brass tube to take out some of the negative, and I kinked it. I removed the stuffing tube (which wasn't hard), and I guess now I'm gonna replace the flex, stuffing tube, and strut.
You live and learn.
When I rebuild should the brass tube go into the strut or should I stop it a little short to allow for easier adjustment?
This is my first Hydro so I am sorry if I sound ignorant. I am thankful for the expert advise we have on this forum.
Alvin

What???????? to long.. I dont undersand..

Change the strut??? are you going to SAW the boat????

You are yanking the stuffing tube????

O boy....

Grim

[alvinsmith75]

What???????? to long.. I dont undersand..

Change the strut??? are you going to SAW the boat????

You are yanking the stuffing tube????

O boy....

Grim

--Too long = when pushed in to the motor coupler all the way the space between the strut and the drive dog was over 1/4". I was told that this was too long. Please advise of your recommendation.
--I am changing the strut, stuffing tube, flex cable and teflon liner so I can have easier adjustment of strut setting. This is opposed to having the brass tube run clean thru the strut and having the strut bushing installed inside the brass tube instead of the strut. The flex cable is being changed because of the un-godly amount of solder used at the cut end and also to attach the other end to the prop shaft.
I hope this doesn't sound harsh. I am not knocking the product at all. It is well worth more that the $330.00 price tag. I am simply personalizing it.


Here ya go Darin.

[Grimracer]

That’s long but not too long.. When you say over a ¼”.. just how far over are we talking?

Rule of thumb.. (this is not gospel) the distance between the back of the strut and the front of the drive dog should be one dia of the shaft.. in this case that’s .187”

Are you saying you are going to use a strut that the stuffing tube does not slip into? I have to ask.. why take a step back in technology? Why de-stabilize the system? I am very confused by this.. Im my opinion.. sorry I have one.. this is a HUGE MISTAKE.. Please re-consider.

If you set that strut at 1 1/6" and not use a copy of Brians propeller, you are going to stress the equipment BIG TIME.. Your going to pin the sponsons and the boat will need a TON of power to operate… well.. try it… let us know what happens…

Just so you know.. TO DATE.. I have YET to break a flex shaft or ANY drive part of the boat. This after 100s of runs..


Good luck and keep us posted..

Grim

[Fluid]

I fully agree with Mike. Run the boat as received before trying major modifications. The boat runs very well with the "regular" strut setting. Brian didn't need to tear out the stuffing tube and go to an old-skool strut setup....

It is a huge mistake for most boaters to set up their boat like a racer does - it almost always ends in tragedy.

Try different props before going 'outside the box' on mods. Most guys will get plenty of speed from prop and CG changes, and minor strut adjustments. Just remember that if you run too large a prop for too long you'll cook something.


.

[raptor347]

I'm with Mike and Jay on this one. The setup I ran in LA was a SAW setup and only usable for a few passes.

Also, the strut setup on the boat is the same style I run on my 100+mph riggers. If there was a better system, I'd be running it.

You definitely want to run the strut shallower for normal conditions. That SAW prop has some very strange characteristics.

I posted the setup just to give people an idea of what could be done. It's a bit over the top.

Bone stock, it's a greeat boat. Start tinkering after you wash the NEW off at the lake

[alvinsmith75]

Like I said this is my first hydro and I need all the help I can get. Your help is greatly appreciated and from some very respectable sources. Can someone tell me a good starting point for strut setting? I've never seen this strut setup before with the bushing in the tube. It seems pretty hard to adjust. Maybe I should reconsider, I'll only need to purchase a new tube and bushing. Why have I never seen this before? Where do ya'll buy parts from? I don't even see where Offshore electrics offers brass tubes with bushings to fit inside. There are no boat clubs around here so you guys are the only help I have. Thanks for all of the input! I can't wait to get her back together and try her out. Temps are supposed to be in the mid 60's this weekend.
Alvin

[alvinsmith75]

Oh one more thing. How do I quiet down the driveline? Would it be ok to use a Huey flexcable?

[Grimracer]

Nothing.. ballance your prop and run the boat. You are NEVER going to get a cable system to be dead quiet. My LSH is close but not quite.

Grim

[Raydee]

Nevermind that.

[Grimracer]

Thinking more about this and some of the stuff we dealt with during the development.

One way to quiet a drive line is to S-bend the stuffing tube.(I typically do this on my own boats..) . But knowing everybody would have thought this would have caused binding I opted for what noise this can make.

Perfect running shafts, bushing fits and the like are about all you can do with the current setup to cancel out some of the noise. Having said this, my quietest boat has the loosest fitting stub bushing…lol

Something else to remember.. Without the cable under load it will vibrate from one side of the liner (non Sbend) to the other and do what we call Whip…. Also I have had boats with prefect drive lines vibrate at just a certain RPM and just can not seem to get rid of it.. same boat is my US-1 boat.

So.. good bad or other.. you have more info to think about

Grimracer

[Jeff Wohlt]

Quiet, smooth, lower weight, less friction...yep, a wire drive.

Steve has plenty of the good ones... :)

[Fluid]

Mike brings up a good point - you should never run your motor/driveline without the prop in the water, other than to check for proper rotation. It does nothing good and several things bad. I suspect that the noise would not have been a bother had you not run it on the bench. Cable drives are not silent anyway, and the motor itself is not silent. Run 'em both at full throttle on the bench and the noise would probably scare me...


.

[raptor347]

The strut/tube/bushing setup has been common in the nitro/gas world for quite a while. A few of us have been using them in FE for the last couple years. It's a good setup and becoming more common in FE.

As for noise. Cables are loud out of the water. The worst sounding cable I've got is in my P SAW rigger. It sounds terrible if you blip the throttle out of the water. It's just as quiet as the wire drives under load.

Put it together and got run it. I really like the the 42x55 GR prop as a starting point. It's probably the easiest to tune around for a hydro newbie. Put the strut back to stock and go try it.

[ice329]

Grease it, the grease takes a few runs to really get dug in. I dont have one of the boats yet but it sounds like it came nice, now you got something to deal with for bending the tube. Not to change the subject but everyone also said you needed to change out the drive for a better one on the SV, that it vibrated and bla bla bla. Truth is there is absolutly nothing wrong with it stock. I like to put a full legnth teflon liner and let the grease cake up, if its all lined up its smooth as pie. G/L

[Fluid]

....everyone also said you needed to change out the drive for a better one on the SV, that it vibrated and bla bla bla...

I never heard this about the SV27 drive, but did about the BlackJack26 drive. The stock BJ drive line is so.....1980s. That hokey steerable outdrive has been around - and cussed at - since at least the early 1980s. Noisy, hooking, inefficient, unreliable, it even prompted Aeromarine to bring out a special mod kit to change the drive to what it should have been all along, fixed flex cable and a rudder.

But to ProBoat's defense, if their design demographics were small pond and pool users with no desire to hop up the boat, those who would run the boat two or three times then put it away until the next garage sale - then the cheaper tighter-turning outdrive makes sense. It's us speed demons who cause the trouble......


,

[Steven Vaccaro]

I never heard this about the SV27 drive, but did about the BlackJack26 drive. The stock BJ drive line is so.....1980s. That hokey steerable outdrive has been around - and cussed at - since at least the early 1980s. Noisy, hooking, inefficient, unreliable, it even prompted Aeromarine to bring out a special mod kit to change the drive to what it should have been all along, fixed flex cable and a rudder.

But to ProBoat's defense, if their design demographics were small pond and pool users with no desire to hop up the boat, those who would run the boat two or three times then put it away until the next garage sale - then the cheaper tighter-turning outdrive makes sense. It's us speed demons who cause the trouble......


,

I think "ice329" is referring to the flex cable and stuffing tube.