HiModel 4s-8s 200 amp esc

[sailr]

Sorry if I misunderstood but I thought I explained your claim of a bogus tracking number? It was probably what the independent shipping broker gave them and then later gave them a different one. I have had it happen to me more than once. It's not typical but not unusual either.

Swang hobby nor any other business in China has ANY control over the shipping and tracking numbers. They are at the mercy of the brokers. The Chinese post will not work with anyone except licensed brokers. I'm not trying to defend Swang Hobby but you are being a bit hard on them for something that was out of their control. I would say the same regardless of who the vendor was. I have been an importer from China for a number of years. Please believe me, shipping is a tough situation for everyone, including the Chinese vendor. The exception, as I said above, is Hong Kong. Totally different animal. That's why HobbyCity set up shop in Hong Kong and sells everything made on the mainland!

i have to disagree with your comments as i didnt excpect it to arrive in 4 days, but 4 days after i recieved a tracking number that couldnt be found which turned out to be bogues.
i have never voiced my opinion before on any forums but when i saw someone was looking at a swang hobby product i thought i would voice my opinion.
if people want to buy from them good luck as for myself i wouldnt touch them if they were they only hobby supplier in the world

[ksm2001]

What is the wire thickness on the esc wires? -need to order some of same gauge as the battery leads on esc.

Esc wires on the Himodel 200 amp come with 12 gauge, I replaced mine with 10 gauge.

Ken

[FastVee]

Thanks ken! (and check your delta thread too ,asked some q´s there)

Is there any need to use thicker wires? -the stock ones are rated over 200A right?

Pate

[FastVee]

I found 2 threads of waterproofing this esc, but I did not found very much helpful info.




1. I will use the etti cooling plate.

2.I have that 3m 270 epoxy.

3.I have the thermal grease (what Steven sells)

-How should I do this?

How will that cooling fin/plate come off? -is it really just prying and pulling?(and breaking the esc at the same time )

Do I first istall that etti cooling plate, then brush thin layer of epoxy everywhere, or do I first waterproof it and then add cooling?

Is it better to dunk it in epoxy or just brush a thin layer on it?

-but how can it be 100% waterproof if the esc is not totally inside an epoxy block?



(Pic from this thread https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?p=32945 )

I do have 99% water free hull...but it only takes a drop of water ...


I dont have that esc here yet, but it was shipped 2 days ago...

[domwilson]

What I did was:
1.) Removed the shrink wrap.
2.) Removed the heatsink. Save the thermal tape. It comes off pretty easily.
3.) Coat the ESC thoroughly with the DP270 epoxy.
4.) Once cured, block sand the tops of the FET's to get a smooth flat epoxy free surface.
5.) Apply the thermal tape to the cooling plate contact area.
6.) Apply a even layer of thermal paste to the FET's
7.) Assemble and heatshink into place.

That should do it.
Others may have some suggestions.

[domwilson]

Forgot to mention, while the epoxy is curing. Go kick the neighbor's cat.

[FastVee]

Forgot to mention, while the epoxy is curing. Go kick the neighbor's cat.

I did that twice earlier today, so do I must do it all over again? -the poor little thing is so scared of me now that I dont think I can get close enough anymore.
(if you see some fluffy cat that has size 13 nike in his a** , please get that shoe back)



And does thoroughly mean that it should be done like this?


or brush it well all over? (I only ordered one pack of that epoxy from Steven )

[domwilson]

I brushed mine on till it was completely covered and no entrance way for water. This includes between and behind the caps. It looks like a epoxy coated brick, sort of.

[sailr]

I hate to be stupid, but I see everybody using that GREY stuff around mounts, stuffing boxes, etc. Is it JB Weld? or? It always seems to flow out so nice.

[domwilson]

Yes. That is JB weld.

[FastVee]

Cute DHL girl just delivered my esc!



Thanks to Dom for pics and thoughts, but has any body else have different thoughts?

Still thinking that dunking it would yell waterproof and brushing would make it water resistant?Most of the temps would be on the fets so the rest should be fine inside epoxy block


So come on, what have rest of you guys done and has it worked?

(wont laugh if you have fried it, just want to make this work)

[domwilson]

Don't know if you can call it brushing or dunking. I used a popsicle stick to make sure it was completely covered and filled like a brick.

[FastVee]

Ok, so I guess it does not matter then witch way I do it

the esc has worked nice and for how long Dom? ( did you got it wet once or twice?)

Is that epoxy 1.7oz /50ml? -will one be enough or should I order more?

You have kept the 12awg wires? -2 pairs?




-Pate

[domwilson]

Oh I got it wet...very wet. I had mine drip dry from applying the epoxy over night by hanging it from the faucet in the kitchen sink on to a paper plate. Next morning, got up, cleaned the sink with this thing dangling from the faucet. Water running over it. Yes I was tired!!! Dryed it off with a paper towel. Then tested boat in the pool. Worked perfect. This was more water than it would see in a boat. So if water under pressure can't harm it, I don't think a few drops in the hull will.

[domwilson]

Ok, so I guess it does not matter then witch way I do it

the esc has worked nice and for how long Dom? ( did you got it wet once or twice?)

Is that epoxy 1.7oz /50ml? -will one be enough or should I order more?

You have kept the 12awg wires? -2 pairs?




-Pate

That should be enough epoxy. I kept the 12 awg wire as I don't think the amp draw is that high. I currently don't own a Eagle tree. Was running a hex 120 before.

[eboat]

I bought 2 of these esc's and have run them on anything from 2S2P 4S2P and 6S2P and have never had a problem with them
They still have the factory wires that came on them
I took mine apart and also painted on the DP 270 to waterproof them
It does not have to be thick just a complete layer over everything so no water can ever touch any of the boards
One I just put the original cooling plate back on with 2 water lines and the other I put a larger heat sink that has a fan and have never put the fan on and it seem to work fine (just takes a little more room)

[FastVee]

eboat, you coated the fets too? -I thought that the top of the fets should be in direct contact with cooling plate? (and thermal grease)

[domwilson]

Did you get bullet connectors? I would recommend 6 mm ones.

[FastVee]

I ordered the 5.5mm ones that Steven sells. (wanted 5.5 cause my new lipos come with 5.5).

5.5 should be good, i belive they are rated around 200A.

[domwilson]

That should be ok. You don't want to draw the full rating of the ESC.

[FastVee]

I must keep that in mind... 70% max.

Now that Ken would reply on his delta thread I could calculate with the eagletree (well, he could) Amp draw on different props. -Since he has the same esc,motor and hull.

[FastVee]

Do you have that 4/8 one? if so, do you use the internal bec?

[eboat]

eboat, you coated the fets too? -I thought that the top of the fets should be in direct contact with cooling plate? (and thermal grease)

I cleaned them off with sand paper before I put the cooling plates on them

[FastVee]

cool, how much is there to sand on fets (so I wont sand it too much) -and what grit paper should I use?

I have never done anything like this b4

Would it be best to lay sandpaper on table and move esc on it rather than sanding it by hand? (so all of the fets would be the same height)

[ozzie-crawl]

i usally use about 400 grit on a block of wood, just sand enough to take the conformal coating of the top of the fets and make them flat, you will see when sanding if there is any really low or high spots, just take your time and it should be okay

[ED66677]

and the good thing of sanding the top of FET's is that they all end up at the same level insuring a perfect contact with the cooling plate.

[eboat]

I think you have your answer now
Just remember when you are putting the DP 270 on that you will have to do this so just try not to have lots left on the tops to sand off
After you have gooped up your esc just lay it flat with the fets up and the DP 270 will seep off the top anyway and leave a nice layer

[FastVee]

Yes, I have something to work with now

But my friend has one problem...He ordered standard loctite epoxy and is thinking of pouring it in. -but it could be conductive or not...50/50

He also has some electronic proofing spray(some kind of lacker)

"for low and high voltage use protects against moisture and is not conductive"

, and we are thinking of spraying the esc with that stuff.

It would leave a nice thin layer on esc, and cause it is spray, it would be easy to spray everywhere.

So has any 1 used spray to waterproof electronics?


Pate

[ED66677]

I was working in the Conformal Coating business since few years... what brand/ref is this spray? there are many, made of different material, some are very good some are not good enough for our application, the best are polyurethane based material, silicon based are not bad too.
Spraying is not an issue, wear a mask when you do it, you don't want to have coating on top of FET's for heat exchange purpose, once sprayed, sandpaper the FET's top as mentionned earlier!

[FastVee]

It is quality stuff, industrial grade.

Brand is WURTH, may not be that known out there, but locally it is the best brand there is.(usually ). They make bolts,cleaners,paint...pretty much everything.

Matti1983 promised to ad more info here later.