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Thread: HiModel 4s-8s 200 amp esc

  1. #61
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    That Thermal Adhesive is way too expensive for my humble application. I'll use ordinary thermal paste and keep the heatsink on with either shrink wrap or zip-ties...

    I read somewhere that the Himodel 200A ESC is programmable with the Turnigy card. I would just like to confirm with those that tried it, that they referred to the http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiMo...200A-OPTO.html ESC and the http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...ogramming_Card and that it actually worked!!??

  2. #62
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    I just read on the back of my JB weld that it is NOT conductive. This could be another alternative to astronomically priced thermally conductive epoxy or the conductive steel epoxy. thoughts?

  3. #63
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    QUOTE "I read somewhere that the Himodel 200A ESC is programmable with the Turnigy card."

    As far as I know the only way to program the Himodel 200 amp esc's is by using the transmiter and count the beeps as listed in the instructions. It's a pain at first but once you figure it out you can do it with your eyes closed, just keep your ears open

    Ken

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Zicha View Post
    Yes there is , check out the picture below
    Thanks for the information. I assume that you first plug in the connectors with the resistor then the main connectors. Do you have to unplug the resistor after you plug in the main connectors or run it all connected?

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by donzi22 View Post
    Do you have to unplug the resistor after you plug in the main connectors or run it all connected?
    Hi Donzi, you don't have to disconnect the resistor, here is an update pic I found for another way to do the same job.

    Ken
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    DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

  6. #66
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    Thank you very much for the added information

  7. #67
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    Here is a pic of how I plan to cool my HM200, with four tubes of cooling water AND a 40mm 5V fan mounted to one side...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by lomdel View Post
    Here is a pic of how I plan to cool my HM200, with four tubes of cooling water AND a 40mm 5V fan mounted to one side...

    Heat...what heat? Cool no pun intended. looks good and nice idea.
    DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

  9. #69
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    Any std for what resistor size is needed? 20-50...any cell count or is this really just for 6-8s up?

  10. #70
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    Jeff.
    This was posted by Jetbill on post #37. Makes things easier.

    http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html

    Cheers.
    Paul.

  11. #71
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    Are these Hymodels fairly straight forward to program with pistol transmitters ? I heard they do not come with directions most of the time.

  12. #72
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    not very instinctive, but once it click in your head it's a breeze.
    :::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Are these Hymodels fairly straight forward to program with pistol transmitters ? I heard they do not come with directions most of the time.
    They are not that easy to program at first like Ub Hauled mentioned, the instructions can be downloaded from the top right corner of the page where you veiw the esc from Himodel. The trick which isn't explained in the instructions to well is once you set a certain part of the program keep holding the full throttle to move to the next section untill you hear the next set of beeps that tell you your in that set of programs , hmmm even my instructions make it confusing.
    If you get one you will see what we mean, but once you get the hang of it its easy.

    Ken
    DF-29,Phil Thomas Super Sport 45, SV27, Xzess 2 Evo, HOTR 32" Cat

  14. #74
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    Is it that difficult for manufacturers to provide USB programming for all their ESC's? Himodel have a program card interface for some of their models but not for the series of the 200A one.

  15. #75
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    Just put the 8s Hymodel in my formula hydro i just built. Worked great until 3rd set of batts and its now dead. Only goes to program mode and wont even do that. Dont know if i should try anotther one or just upgrade. I was useing a 7 xl with a 442 prop . It went a 49 best with no heat issues so i was happy.........untill it crapped out!!!! OHWELL

  16. #76
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    You guys think i should try another ? Might have just been a fluke or there just junk.

  17. #77
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    Which one is more efficient, is it by additional cooling or adding a capacitor?

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary View Post
    Just put the 8s Hymodel in my formula hydro i just built. Worked great until 3rd set of batts and its now dead. Only goes to program mode and wont even do that. Dont know if i should try anotther one or just upgrade. I was useing a 7 xl with a 442 prop . It went a 49 best with no heat issues so i was happy.........untill it crapped out!!!! OHWELL
    What voltage? I have bought 4, 2 are dead. One thing is for sure, the ETTI is more reliable. Best thing with the HM is to go over the settings again because I think what they say "factory setting" don't take it for granted.
    Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
    http://www.rcfastboats.com/

  19. #79
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    Hi i was running the early version of this esc http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...12S_BESC_(Ver4)
    in my lizard xtreme with Kb458xl abc H5 prop i burned the MOSFets on the 3rd run probably drawing too many amps it was magic to program with the card im now have an Etti150 race and love that esc not so easy to program but if you take your time you can get it right

    Here is the vid
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O73X0EIKKnE

    Cheers Adrian

  20. #80
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    Adrian

    Did u install watercooling?nice video, its pretty fast, what is the top speed?

  21. #81
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    Hi No watercooling i did 87.6 k on that run and best speed was 91k after balancing and doing some work on the H5 blew the esc the same day

  22. #82
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    Watercooling is a must not an option...but anyway nice boat and handling, I wonder what did u hit at the end of the video

  23. #83
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    Hi i hit a branch that was in the water close to the edge ripped the rudder off the bracket killed a 6kg metal gear servo no damage at all to the hull
    very lucky here is a picture of the boat with the new esc

    Cheers
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  24. #84
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    Yeah...really really lucky it just ripped the rudder, u should use a rudder with break off option just to be safe, that is a wholesome caps u got on your esc, I think it awsome, I've seen a someone use it on a bandit cat with a top speed of 127km/h.

  25. #85
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    I have to say this is my second Etti esc the caps exploded while i was running the boat with the first Etti blew the taped lid right off the boat LOL and lost it this is the one that Dee at etti replaced for me and he suggested to add the caps

    Adrian

  26. #86
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    Nice run. I would use a 42-43 mm prop. to be a little safer and when you want speed the 45mm. Your system must be drawing 130-150 amps with the 45mm.
    Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
    http://www.rcfastboats.com/

  27. #87
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    Would any of you know of a way to activate the HM for full throttle only without the use of a receiver? I'm working on a project where I only need to run full throttle for 5-6 sec. I would like just to have a switch connected to a timer to activate the ESC and then shut it down. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

    Terry

  28. #88
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    The esc is watercooled, the motor isn't ?

  29. #89
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    What is the "T" fitting and extra line on the loop tube?

    Quote Originally Posted by lomdel View Post
    Here is a pic of how I plan to cool my HM200, with four tubes of cooling water AND a 40mm 5V fan mounted to one side...
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

  30. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailr View Post
    What is the "T" fitting and extra line on the loop tube?
    I have a rudder with two water intakes. One goes to the motor (not installed in the pic yet) and the other one is splitted by the "T" to two tubes on the ESC and then the two lines exit through the side of the hull still separately. The third exit line is from the motor cooler... Clear?

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