HiModel 4s-8s 200 amp esc

[ksm2001]

One thing I forgot to mention is that the wires that come with the esc's are 12 gauge, the pics I posted are with 10 gauge I soldered on. The new 4-8s esc solder points for the motor side are very close to the fets so watch the soldering iron temp so not to pop one if you decide to change wires.

[planezero]

Man that was a fast delivery, from China to NL in 2,5 days !

[RPC1]

I just used one with a 10XL on 6s lipo worked great out of the wrapper, no troubles with a JR pistol radio, just plugged it in and it worked great. This set up is in an OSE offshore Raider 25".

[Steven Vaccaro]

I just used one with a 10XL on 6s lipo worked great out of the wrapper, no troubles with a JR pistol radio, just plugged it in and it worked great. This set up is in an OSE offshore Raider 25".

You ran that power in the little mono? How did it go?

[RPC1]

Steven, you are not going to like the set up. It is my Father's boat. He cut a 1" wide 1.5 * delta pad on the bottom, and is attempting a sub surface drive system. So a strut angle at 7.5*(submerged), wire drive, 10XL on 6s 3800Mah,a X432 detongued/ back cut. I gotta say I have never seen a boat leap out of the water like it did, power on demand. Unfortunately, with a sub drive system and angle at 7.5*, the thrust is at the motor and lifts the bow like crazy so we could not relocate the batteries up towards the motor because we ran out of velcro, about 40% CG. This thing is going to be a rocket, if it will stay in the water.Thanks for your great customer service, I will keep you posted and get some video.

[Steven Vaccaro]

Interesting setup. Please keep us posted!!

[Jetbill]

I've been running a couple of the 8s Bec versions for a few months now. They are only running on 4s with an Ammo 2300 & the SV 27 motor So the Amp draw isn't high either.
The one with the Ammo is fine. The one with the SV27 motor ( in a 32" cat with a 445 prop) was working great until the other week.
As I plugged the batteries in the spark seemed a little bigger than usual and the ESC would not arm. No noises or beeps whatsoever. The BEC was still working because I still had power to the receiver & rudder servo. I tried unplugging & plugging a few times but she no go. I changed the receiver but still no luck.
If anyone can advise on what the problem might be and if it's fixable it would be appreciated.
Although this is outside the realm of this thread I still have to ask... Is there a simple way to reduce that splash across the plugs as you connect the batteries to the ESC?
Cheers.
Paul.

Yes there is , check out the picture below

Great site to use to help calculate resistor value to arrest the discharge current of the capacitors.

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html

[ksm2001]

Not sure why it dosen't arm, but will it reprogram as per instructions? Other than that might be fried,toasted or otherwise.

[RPC1]

I just got one wet, it fried but the BEC still worked. Finally after taking the shrink wrap off, i could tell it was fried.

[785boats]

Thanks for that info Jetbill Very usefull

ksm 2001
Won't rearm can't even get a beep out of it. But the steering servo & reciever still work from its BEC.
I don't think anything on the main boards fried. It was working fine on the previous run. Just wouldn't work when I plugged it in for the next run. It just seemed to me to be a slightly bigger splash when I plugged it in.
Maybe it's like Aussie crawl said ...a faulty programming chip on the PC board.
My other one is still working fine & I've ordered another one. At $60.00 for a 200A ESC I think it can be considered a throw away item. A pity though.
Thanks for the input guys.
Paul.

[ozzie-crawl]

with a lot of esc,s if you blow acouple of fets they can be replaced and everything works fine but with the himodel ones for some reason it wont work after checking a few of these i have blown up and repaired none have ever worked properly again. only thing i can put it down to is the control chip or the program it runs.
as paul said tho its a rather cheap speedie
cheers scott

[DISAR]

I had the 3-7s fully coated with epoxy 270 with water cooling and also used the Dimension Engineering lipo safe. After 1 min. use the ESC fried on 90Amps. You must me lucky with these ones.

[Jesse J]

Gotta say, tried one in my Titan 29 with the 10XL on 6S (5000mah 20C Zippys) and same deal after a minute of 40+ mph fried too. Not sure really why, I added some water cooling to the top (fin side), but she smoked from one of the boards on the other side. Too big of prop? Used a GrimRacer 44x66. Not sure if I should order another... If it is just under cooled, then might reconsider another $70 ESC.

[ReddyWatts]

FeCalc estimates your setup will use 167 amps and 3400 watts for a Feigao 540 10XL using a 4466 prop. It would have been ok with a KB45 10XL for that setup. It would use 80 amps 1700 watts.

Were the lipos 5000 20c 6s2p?

[planezero]

Just some advice to avoid smoking stuff...

Start with small props, take temp readings a after a few passes and move up in prop size if everything stays cool.
Get an amp meter (watts-up meter or better an Eagletree logger) if you really want to know whats going on in your boat, they are great tools.

[Jesse J]

No parallel, just two packs in series, so 5000 mah truly. Is that 4466 a lot of pitch? KB45, kinda like an Octura X445? Ohhh, is that 44mm diameter and 66mm (2.6") of pitch? if so that is twice the pitch of the X445... YIPES. I need to get on that FeCalc.

Recon I could get another one of these ESCs and follow Berry's wisdom, need me an amp meter - how do you measure the amperage while the boat is going 40 mph?

[Jesse J]

Berry, what the heck is your avatar? is that a wrecked bow and some bondo bandaids?

[ReddyWatts]

FeCalc will not give an exact real life reading, but will give you a good estimate of which prop to start testing with and keep you out of trouble when buying equipment.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=5757

[planezero]

Recon I could get another one of these ESCs and follow Berry's wisdom, need me an amp meter - how do you measure the amperage while the boat is going 40 mph?

When you bring your boat in you can read the maximum amps that passed through the logger off a lcd display. For the Eagletree you have to get the display seperately. Here you can see me checking mine in the beginning of the vid to give you an idea.

My avatar is what is left of my SV27 after bringing it in too quickly and prying it out of the lake bank.

[lomdel]

Any updates on these ESC's? How are they programmed, by beeps, a card or PC interface?

[Ub Hauled]

They are step by step with the Tx... I am yet to test them since I had radio problems
when I went to the pond on Sunday morning.

[lomdel]

I just watercooled mine with brass tubes in the heatsink fins AND a small 3Racing fan on one side to aid airflow between the plates. See pics... One question, though : should the fan blow air into the ESC or extract air from it??
I am going to waterp[roof it with CorrosionX and leave it unwrapped. The only problem being, keeping the heatsink attached onto the FET's...

[skipskip]

hey this is probably a dumb question but i have a novak GTB brushless esc and on the spec it says 580 ap for burshless motors and 1620 a for brushed and will handel 3s lip 7c nic it makes my truck haul ive been looking and at these esc u guys are talking about and a 100a and 250a rating sounds kind of wusy to me
or are these esc rated diffrent please educate me i would much rather buy a 50 dollar esc than a 220 dollar one thnx

[Punisher 67]

Can you post a picture of this magnificent unit , send it to me I'll bet you I can blow it up in 30 seconds

.......................................

200 amp esc's are pretty much what most anyone will need unless you go to the mega sized 3060/3080 lehners under 9 turn or the 2215/2230 1Y's , there is no RC HOBBY esc that I have ever seen that will take that kind of heat with a continuous draw , schulze is coming out with a 40/300 that is rated for 400amps spikes

what is the Novak rated for continuous usage........................

[lomdel]

The HM 200A is by no means magnificent, but a quick cheap way to get back on the water while saving for another Etti.
Skipskip, that 580A probably refers to something else. No ESC for general brushless RC use can handle that load to my (limited) knowledge...

I added another two tubes to the heatsink. See pic...

[Punisher 67]

I hate to be a show-off but this is what I did to my Himodel 200 , glued the heatsink with epoxy steel

[lomdel]

Isn't the epoxy steel conductive? To what did you glue it, to the FET's?

[Punisher 67]

Yes the top of the fets , doesn't matter if its conductive or non conductive if you don't glob it on there is no chance of contaminating any circuits . epoxy steel is magnetic so be carefull there

[lomdel]

Yes the top of the fets , doesn't matter what is there conductive or non conductive if you don't glob it on there is no chance of contaminating any circuits . epoxy steel is magnetic so be carefull there

So you mean, just put a small drop of epoxy steel on top of each smal FET? Then press the heatsink onto that without messing any epoxy onto the circuit board... Is epoxy steel thermally conductive enough?

[Punisher 67]

probably not as good as the stuff Ken ( KSM2001 ) used but it hasn't failed me yet , I always make sure the bond is as close as possible for optimal conductivity . Don't use what I have , Kens stuff is specifically for this app and way better than epoxy steel