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Thread: Fibreglass 1/10 scale drag boat

  1. #1
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    Default Fibreglass 1/10 scale drag boat

    Now I know nothing of drag boats other than they should travel quickly in a straight line direction at SAW speeds. A couple of years ago my son purchased this hull from a local builder. The hull is 57 cm in length and 22 cm in width with a carbon inlay. The hull follows the high standards set by the builder for his numerous other hulls and apart from a bow in the hatch moulding (what fibreglass hull does not have a bowed hatch) Jason has done an excellent job.

    My son had planned that he would some day build a fast drag hull but has of late been way laid by other boating plans so I decided while awaiting parts to finish my Osprey build to have a look at this hull. The bowed hatch and mating surfaces on the hull cutout have been worked to give a better fit than previously.

    I have an SSS 3674 2075kv motor removed from my Libero when I recently upgraded the boat to 6s, plus I have several Turnigy Nano-tech 3300 mah 3s 65-130C batteries for my two Arowana self righting hulls, so thought as I am almost half there for parts why not give the drag boat a crack.

    My plans are to run the 2075kv motor on 6s. As the boat will be specificially a SAW hull the high revs should not be too much of an issue. If the revs are too high then I can always replace the motor with a lower kv value. The batteries would be located in the nose section in series to give 6s. The motor will be located roughly 50% mid-length and will be offset about 1/4" to the right to counter prop torque. The ESC will be located at the rear at the transom, with strut and rudder by Speedmaster.

    I have done a rough CoG placement and the CoG is positioned about two inches (5 cm) aft of the sponson vertical trailing edge. I did a float test and the boat was level with no water over either the transom or the nose. The boat was weighted with the batteries and motor in my chosen location plus lead weights in the rear to simulate the weight of the ESC, strut and rudder assemblies.

    I do have a few questions.
    Firstly, I assume a turnfin is not necessary as the rudder should be able to manouevre the hull at the slow turning speeds the boat will be doing. I notice that some hulls have small fins mounted to the inside edge of the sponson. I assume that these give directional stability. Are fins fitted to both sponsons or just one side (starboard side), please?

    Secondly, is 1/4" shaft offset sufficient for the hull to maintain straight line stability? I assume that the drag hull would behave in a similar fashion to a hydro or is a drag hull a much different beast?

    Thirdly, as the rudder is really just to maintain straight line running, is a "full size" rudder blade required or are there specific rudders designed for drag hulls, please?

    Fourthly, is it preferable to slightly fill the nose section and tips with shredded carbon fibre and resin as on a catamaran hull?

    Finally, a 2075 kv motor running on 6s, would the amp draw possibly exceed a T120 amp ESC capacity or would a T180 amp model be preferred, please?

    My personal preference is towards a mono hull, but this drag hull looks interesting. If I did not have a hull, motor and batteries available then I would not have pursued this build.

    My son has found a source for a very nice (expensive) 1/10 th scale 3D printed V8 motor that one can use a servo to operate the butterflies. Not sure that I would go that far, but the V8 motor would be essential to create the look of the boat.
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    Last edited by Old School; 04-25-2018 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Correction

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    23 inch hull running on 2075 kv,s at 6s is alot of power for this sized hull. i feel setting up a 3s combo would be better especially if you had a motor with atleast 2400 kv,s. i am building up a 33.5 inch sport hydro for 4s running and it has been mentioned 6s would be way too much for that size hull. maybe you could give it a shot on 6s as you could easily go back to 3s and a different motor if this hull shows good potential.

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    Many thanks for your input. I am open to all suggestions. I do have 4s batteries so could run the 2075kv on 4s if the boat was too much. This is roughly 30k rpm. The boat will be a learning experience as speed is outside my comfort zone.

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    Its still worth trying 6s just to see how things go as you never know until you try. if no good then go down to 4s or 3s.

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    I checked with a 4500 mah 4s battery and the CoG was the same as with the 2 off 3s batteries so balance should not be impacted if I downsize.

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    As part of a little searching to find answers to my questions above, a search returned a thread on this forum from several years ago as regards setting up drag racing events in boating clubs. A mention was made from one respondent that he had a 4082 1600kv running 8s in a 24" hydro hull. My measly 3674 2075kv on 6s seems a little "underpowered" (similar RPM).

    Another response had a hydro drag boat 0-78mph in 3.6 seconds. The hull barely touches the water. That is simply amazing.

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    Was there any mention of saw times made form this 4082-1600 kv on 8s powered 24 inch hydro ? how would you like to go 140 mph with a small hydro running on a 3650 - 2300 kv on 4s. you just can not run a small hull successfully at high speeds with excessive power to weight. have seen some very fast hydros running on 2s .

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    Drag boats are measured over a set distance so outright speed is not as important as elapsed time over that distance. SAW running is the average of two runs although I am not aware of what the actual distance is that they travel although obviously more than the "quarter mile" speedtrap of a drag boat.

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    Yes, Drag boats run simular to Drag Cars and do get a time for trap distance and overall speed as so saw where the boat gets a time for the trap distance [ A to b ] plus its over all top speed which has to be averaged out from the 2 x set runs through the trap both upstream and downstream, example 100 mph upstream and 110 mph downstream will average out to 105 mph.
    Drag Boats aquire Times and SAW boats aquire top speed . In australia we used to and maybe still have our traps set at 100 meters so whatever speed you did through that timed distance of 100 meters in both directions was what you got. not sure if we do much or any drag boat times in aust.

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    It seems that stateside there is more interest now in 1/6 scale drag boats with hydros and flat bottom runners.

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    Just getting a rough idea of how it will look. The V8 is a small scale motor my son made a while ago for a small drag boat. He made the motor from scratch with scraps in the spares box. He has purchased a 1/10 scale 3D printed V8 motor for the project.
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    The engine in the rear there looks great. it wouldn,t be very heavy either.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rol243 View Post
    The engine in the rear there looks great. it wouldn,t be very heavy either.
    My son made that from bits of timber, plastic offcuts and a drink bottle cap modifed for the bellhousing. The bug catcher is styrene tube and carved timber and complete with butterflies. It has twin magnetos and ignition wiring. Probably about 1/16 scale, he built it for a smaller hydro hull.

    The motor he just purchased from the States for this current drag hydro is a beautiful 3D printed 1/10 scale unit that comes as a kit - not cheap - around $60.00 usd plus postage.

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    This morning's work entailed making a turnfin. The jury is still out on whether a fin is essential or not. Some like a fin to assist in turning the hull while others state that as turning is not as important on a drag hull as say on an oval racer, then simply slowing the boat at the end of a run will assist the boat to turn.

    I prefer to have a fin as I feel that it not only will assist in a turn (even if at low speed), but it might also have a positive effect on directional stability. A couple of videos I watched of RC drag boats showed them to be a little light footed under power.

    The fin I made was cut down from a surplus turnfin and extends less than 3 cm below the starboard sponson. On a drag boat a relatively small fin is needed and not a full size fin as on a hydro boat.
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    I like the idea of having a small turn fin fitted on a saw type boat as i am sure it would help alittle in keeping the model running in a straight direction as opposed to running in a grabbing effect. it has been mentioned its also good to have a slight curl in the bottom of fin to help stop any sponson lift at speed. try with fin and without fin to see any difference.

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    Here’s the link for more pics of that V8

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...light=Tenshock

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    Quote Originally Posted by hughb View Post
    Here’s the link for more pics of that V8

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...light=Tenshock
    That scratchbuilt motor is very well done. It must have taken you a long time to complete it.

    I decided that the hull needed a little floor strengthening so applied an additional carbon fibre layer to the transom overlapping with the piece added to the floor of the hull, extending up the sides.

    Edit: I found this hull with an offset drive.

    http://dragboatcity.com/boat-models/rc-hull-4/
    Last edited by Old School; 04-27-2018 at 10:48 PM.

  18. #18
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    You don,t need the right [ starboard ] offset with the hydros as opposed to mono hulls.

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    This is a few components of the Dragondarkwings 1/10 scale 3D printed motor. Expensive but amazing. Everything screws together with the word's smallest screws. Includes a full size metal gear servo plus another mini type servo that I assume is for operating the butterflies. No instructions are included but I blieve that there are videos on You-Tube.

    Edit: link to motor on You-Tube

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9UPCKfY9Ag
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    Last edited by Old School; 05-02-2018 at 05:51 AM.

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    Yeah nice. Looks to be a perfect height as well for the bug catcher to clear the top of the canopy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hughb View Post
    Yeah nice. Looks to be a perfect height as well for the bug catcher to clear the top of the canopy.
    There is actually a piece about 1 cm high that goes between the supercharger and the bugcatcher so will raise it a further 1 cm. I had to watch the video to make out what goes where. The metal servo as supplied is simply to strip for the electric motor and control board.

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    For those with a bit more building experience than I do, when I mount my stuffing tube through the hull I intend bonding the next telescopic size larger diameter tube in the hull passing the stuffing tubing through this and sealing it. Should I resin bond the fixed section of tubing to the stuffing tube or use an RTV sealant, please? Using RTV should allow non-destructive disassembly should the stuffing tube ever need removing. My experience is with stingers and this is my first strut install.


    Edit: found this image

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...chmentid=87104
    Last edited by Old School; 05-03-2018 at 04:57 AM.

  23. #23
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    I do not know how people build small boats as even with this hull I am quickly running out of room. It is like the proverbial 10lb shyte in a 5lb bag. Just mocking up the interior.
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    I think you better check to make sure this hull still floats with that monster lipo inside. that is a small hydro.

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    I did a float test previously using two 3300 mah 3s batteries before deciding to go with a single 5s 4000 mah battery.

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    just looking at the actual size of this drag hydro makes me think the power your going to use in this hull will be too much . the beam is quite narrow and having this more than ample power plus no doubt a pitchy prop theres a good chance this hull will roll over just from prop / power torque. I hope i am wrong in my thinkings but she will be touchy on the trigger.

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    More POWER, as Jeremy Clarkson likes to say. On a serious side, the motor is most likely a little over the top, but is what I had available. If too much I can go to a 3660. I was actually quite surprised when I saw the hull floating with the two 3s batteries as it seemed rather heavy. However, it did float very well.

    I do not intend an aggressive prop initially. My son can work on that as the hull shows if it has promise or not. All the setup can be re-used on a bigger hull if needed. At present the hull is 590 mm X 220 mm.

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    with our p rigger 4s hydros which have approx 540mm sponson span , these can flip a sponson if you hit the throttle to hard , this is what makes me think with your hydro hull with a 220mm beam is going to be very hairy unless you open the throttle gradually and not wot at once, so if your wanting a standing start as in drag race , you will lose alot of time with a slow start. a rolling start will be fine though.

  29. #29
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    Drag Boat City . com , has your hydro hull set up and has done 124 mph. take note of strut angle etc plus motor / strut offset.

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    Many thanks. I have planned a 6 mm offset.

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