Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 31

Thread: Thoughts on Delta Force 28 cat hull?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default Thoughts on Delta Force 28 cat hull?

    I'm interested in getting a Delta Force 28 cat. I already have a few of the more common cat hulls (Apparition, Zonda, Genesis) for which i already have plans to build as twin motor cats. However I'm looking for a cat to put in a big single motor for decent speeds (>60-70mph) while having the handling abilities to do some racing.

    Would the DF 28 good for race and sport running? I also like the Aeromarine Mean Machine (they look exactly the same), is it worth the extra cost for being 1 inch longer? Can the hull handle a 40mm motor and 6s?

    I've searched on this forum but couldn't find one reference to the DF 28 hull.

    P.S. I know the cheetah seems a popular choice, though its out of stock at OSE.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    OZ
    Posts
    686

    Default

    This states a 29" Pathfinder

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYTgEUK5P9c

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Yeah that's very nice. Seems to get up and move!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    If your wanting to race in P class its wise to go abit longer in length than say the 28 inch to something like 30 / 31 / 32 inch, the extra length does help alot in oval racing when water conditions start getting choppy. I know Deltaforce make good hulls as so Aeromarine but i feel aeromarine would be my pic for a racing cat.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    I have a TFL 27" mini zonda single motor build, setup for SAW runs. Its a fun boat, but that hull is so small and narrow, it needs ideal water conditions. In race water forget it. I would imagine a DF28 would not fare any better. The Cheetah is well known for stability in race conditions and an awesome turning hull. You can email Steven at OSE and see what the lead time on ordering a hull from TFL would be or try another TFL distributor in the US.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    789

    Default

    We used a DF 28 cat cut down 1 inch to run for the "N" oval record. In testing I found this hull works very well and turns decent with a 4S spec motor. I feel it is better in turns than the Mean machine which I also have. I haven't over powered the hull so I cant address any speeds above 55 mph. With a 40 mm motor it may go over 60 but won't handle turns. MY MM set the "P" oval with a 1512 and ran mid 60's. It still lost time in turns and couldn't run flat out there.
    That said I like the DF and mine at 27" might be better at the 28" full length.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Thanks for the responses everyone. Still sitting on the fence...we'll see

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HTVboats View Post
    We used a DF 28 cat cut down 1 inch to run for the "N" oval record.
    Mic
    Mic,
    Got any pictures of that boat? Would love to see the setup.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    Just remember that a model running around in oval trim on its own will handle conditions alot better than the same model running in a race with other boats .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Thankyou for the input of everyone. I did end up going with the DF 28. I understand it may be small for racing, but I'll use it to practice my building skills and then to further my boat handling skills.

    On another note, for a single motor cat hull should the propshaft/stuffing tube be centralised along the longitudinal axis of the hull, or offset slightly to counteract prop torque? As for the rudder, should it be offset to the right or left side of the boat? How far over should it be, closer to the centreline or more toward the edge of the boat?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Offsetting the drive line is more of a mono hull tuning trick as those hulls pivot on that same axis. Single motor cats can still suffer from some torque roll, especially with narrow beams, but usually only while getting on plane. They are running on two ride surfaces once on plane and its not really an issue. Rudders are typically offset to the right due to the right hand turns in racing and interference with the both the prop thrust cone and physical interference with the prop itself. As for the amount of offset, at a minimum, it needs to be far enough over that the rudder will not hit the blades of the largest prop you plan on running, the rest is sorted with testing and tuning.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    789

    Default

    ca.jpgDF int.jpgDf2.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]158888[/ATTACH
    Some pics of DF vs MM. I spliced one inch at the end of the first step and off the front of the cowl. For "N" it had a TP 3640/4700kv and a MGM 28026 and pulled 230-240 amps. Works much easier with a P spec. I would set up another DF28 over a MM. JMO
    Mic
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Awesome thank you guys

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Doing some reading. In this build thread on a Cheetah hull they offset the driveline, but this is to compensate for propwalk.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...hlight=cheetah

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    HTVboats,

    Can I ask in Pic 4 of your post above what are the two blocks inside the tunnel? Is it for disrupting airflow to reduce lift?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    789

    Default

    Hugh,
    They are called stumble blocks and are common on outboard tunnels. They don't affect air flow much but keep the hull from nose diving in turns. The inside block on a turn disturbs water against the sponson inner wall which can help with oversteer and hooking. Probably more 'Mental Health" than real effect. You can mess with different sizes shapes and positioning with wood blocks and fastened with servo tape or silicone which I prefer. Pull them off and try different ones till you feel you have affected your turns positively.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Arhh I see. I like the idea of ingenious, low cost solutions to get an edge in racing

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Hull came in recently. Seems to be very nicely made. The hull feels fairly solid and most importantly is square and true-it sits flat on the benchtop with no rocking side to side or corner to opposite corner. I will still do a CF inlay to stiffen the tunnel area, slight flex there.

    IMG_5043.JPG IMG_5046.JPG

    Thinking of rudder options...

    IMG_5044.JPG

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ca
    Posts
    6,962

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hughb View Post
    Hull came in recently. Seems to be very nicely made. The hull feels fairly solid and most importantly is square and true-it sits flat on the benchtop with no rocking side to side or corner to opposite corner. I will still do a CF inlay to stiffen the tunnel area, slight flex there.

    IMG_5043.JPG IMG_5046.JPG

    Thinking of rudder options...

    IMG_5044.JPG
    I have a prop that goes with that rudder :

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgRzweFct0M
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    8,335

    Default

    We have one of these in our club and it seemed to scoot along really well.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    359

    Default

    I just received my Pathfinder today, haven't had time to open the box yet though.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    344

    Default

    Just picked one up to build for my grandson. Interested in any updates please keep them coming!

  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    344

    Default

    Sharp boat! It’ll be hard to hand this one over to my grandson. Completed inlay.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Nice work! Looks like you've done well with the inlay, not too resin rich. The boat looks great in red.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    344

    Default

    Getting close now. Bottom blueprinted, driveline in, decals on. Hatch fasteners, radio setup, and some light final assembly are all that remain. Still waiting for the TX to arrive.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Looks good Mike. I would trim that teflon liner back a bit if you haven't already so it doesn't bind on the collet.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  27. #27
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    344

    Default

    Thanks Ryan! I will, its just placed there for now awaiting final trimming. I'm going to use the shrink tubing just over the edge method to try to keep it from creeping up this time.

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    It's been my experience that anytime you use heat shrink in an area where there's grease, it will eventually just slip off. I've yet to buy any, but I'm told marine heat shrink has adhesive on the inside and sticks where you put it in these non-wiring applications.I've been meaning to get some for a problematic stuffing tube to strut transition on one of my boats.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  29. #29
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    344

    Default

    I have some of that but not in the correct size. It sticks like crazy and even oozes out the ends when shrinking. Great for boat trailer wiring. Not great if you ever want to remove it.
    I think this will work if you hang 3/32” off the end and allow it to shrink/fold over the end. Whoever posted it said it works great and clearances itself from the cable if necessary.
    I’ll make a tapered brass ferrule thingie in the drill and epoxy that on before using shrink tubing in front of the strut. Seems like the last place you want to disturb smooth water flow.

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Wi
    Posts
    734

    Default

    I used to use shrink wrap for strut-to-stuffing tube sealing. Couple years ago I switched to Honda Bond or something similar. Haven't used any shrink wrap since.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •