New Here, Need some advice on my ZONDA

[Speedfreek]

I think the Zonda is a dual. so 4050 will suffice. This will really help with maximizing your runtime too. You should be able to get close to 70 at about 150A/motor running an 1817-17 ABC prop. To go 80, you'll need to upgrade the ESC's to SW 220A or equivalent. The amp load will be about 190-200A/motor. It takes a lot of power to push a big boat like that at speed. Also, your setup is going to have to be impeccable. It will need to be trimmed to run on the last 1" of the sponsons, max! I would use water pickups in the rudder, because hull pickups might be running dry when fully trimmed out.

There's many other small things. Electrically, you'll need to isolate the ground loop created between the Recv and the ESC's. This unintended loop is responsible for just flaming the ESC's quite unpredictably. Search for "Cap Banks for Dual ESC's" to bone up on that. You've bitten off a big project, so realize this may be a longer road than you first expected.

Exelent this is what i am talking about love it , i looked up Cap Banks like you said i am up to speed with that from my experience with my 144mph rc car i have, and i have customized extra caps on each of the ESC's.
Can you explain a little more on
"Electrically, you'll need to isolate the ground loop created between the Recv and the ESC's. This unintended loop is responsible for just flaming the ESC's quite unpredictably." ??

[Speedfreek]

I would stick with 4050’s. That should be plenty for a Zonda. Definitely the lower Kv the better things are on runtime, amp spikes, heat, all of it. 60-70 should be easily attainable on 1400’ish Kv(or even a bit more).Then with proper prop choices more can be had.
Craig has sound advice. Remember, ‘ To win a race you have to finish the race’.

Cool, so TP 4050 locked in .
Not sure on kv as yet ?

[Speedfreek]

Trying to upload a pickture
It worked
The caps are 11.5 mF 12S max, i like over kill, one for each side.

[srislash]

Trying to upload a pickture
It worked
The caps are 11.5 mF 12S max, i like over kill, one for each side.

I’ll let Craig take care of the ground loop problem(he has a thread here on it).
But shortening those wires would help a lot. Maybe flip the batteries so that the wires are near motors and ESC. And one step better would be to run batteries into one and then out to ESC’s. This parallels the packs so the ESC’s see equal power. I am pretty sure Craig’s thread covered this. It is not a must but is beneficial.

My Fantasm is not currently this way but will be.

[CraigP]

Can you explain a little more on
"Electrically, you'll need to isolate the ground loop created between the Recv and the ESC's. This unintended loop is responsible for just flaming the ESC's quite unpredictably." ??

There’s a section where I explained that Opto isolation is required to separate the grounds of the two ESC’s from the receiver ground. Noise picked up between these 3 systems can cause an ESC or a receiver’s microprocessor to get glitched, or momentarily disrupted. When a BLDC motor is at speed and the ESC loses track on its position, it can easily be blown up due to turning on the wrong mosfets. If you read into that thread, one of the guys found an Opto Board on line that has one input and controls two outputs thru opto isolator. I posted schematics of this Board and a couple of other guys, Golfito was one, built them too. I wouldn’t run a twin without it! You will find the schematic for the board and the wiring diagram showing how it hooks up. You will also need an external BEC to power the tech and rudder servo. Don’t use the BEC’s in the ESC’s!

[CraigP]

“Common caps for two escs?” is the link. Wealth of info! Definitely too much to re-write. Check it out!

[Speedfreek]

I’ll let Craig take care of the ground loop problem(he has a thread here on it).
But shortening those wires would help a lot. Maybe flip the batteries so that the wires are near motors and ESC. And one step better would be to run batteries into one and then out to ESC’s. This parallels the packs so the ESC’s see equal power. I am pretty sure Craig’s thread covered this. It is not a must but is beneficial.

My Fantasm is not currently this way but will be.

Ok sounds fair, this is adding more wire into it to, but i do undestand it equalize the amps and voltage the same for each side

[Speedfreek]

There’s a section where I explained that Opto isolation is required to separate the grounds of the two ESC’s from the receiver ground. Noise picked up between these 3 systems can cause an ESC or a receiver’s microprocessor to get glitched, or momentarily disrupted. When a BLDC motor is at speed and the ESC loses track on its position, it can easily be blown up due to turning on the wrong mosfets. If you read into that thread, one of the guys found an Opto Board on line that has one input and controls two outputs thru opto isolator. I posted schematics of this Board and a couple of other guys, Golfito was one, built them too. I wouldn’t run a twin without it! You will find the schematic for the board and the wiring diagram showing how it hooks up. You will also need an external BEC to power the tech and rudder servo. Don’t use the BEC’s in the ESC’s!

I have been looking for it but i can not find it, is there a link to it (FOUND IT)

And can you run a LIFE 6.6 V to power the Futaba R603FS and servo or will it cook it ?

[Speedfreek]

“Common caps for two escs?” is the link. Wealth of info! Definitely too much to re-write. Check it out!

Wow my brain just awesome info

Sent you a pm