P Limited Offshore Setup - Lucas Oil

[CHowarth]

I've read enough to be dangerous and most setup threads tend to be beyond what I'm looking for so, please pardon if this is post is totally redundant.

Looking for prop and battery size suggestions for making the 4 minute heats, as well as any setup starting points.

I'm changing the flex shaft and coupler. - any other changes I should make off the bat?

Props - x442, x642, m445?

Battery size? - I'm looking to get 2, 4S packs so is 3300 enough? Will 5000 get me through two heats?

Strut setting - Flat? Seems most mentioned 1/8" above sponsons - still correct?

Again, I apologize if this has all been written. I searched and read a bunch and most seemed to jump to 6s or the 2030kv aquacraft motor.

Thanks for any input!

Charley

[longballlumber]

Hi Charlie,

I’ve run the Lucas Oil in Offshore and this was my set-up…

Motor – 1800kv AquaCraft (come with the boat)
Batteries – GrimRacer 4200 4S wired in parallel for 8400mAh total (4S2P)
Prop – Octura 440/3 blade

This set up wasn’t the fastest, but it made the boat drivable and stayed on the water. I rarely had to deal with heat issues.

Strut wise, I was little deeper with some angle to keep the nose down. You will need work with the strut depth to find a spot that works with your driving style and keeps the boat on the water in race conditions.
3300 packs (6600mAh total) might work, but I would suggest a little more head room. 5000’s (10,000mAh total) is more than necessary IMO. However, the extra weight of the batteries might be helpful.

[CHowarth]

Hi Charlie,

I’ve run the Lucas Oil in Offshore and this was my set-up…

Motor – 1800kv AquaCraft (come with the boat)
Batteries – GrimRacer 4200 4S wired in parallel for 8400mAh total (4S2P)
Prop – Octura 440/3 blade

This set up wasn’t the fastest, but it made the boat drivable and stayed on the water. I rarely had to deal with heat issues.

Strut wise, I was little deeper with some angle to keep the nose down. You will need work with the strut depth to find a spot that works with your driving style and keeps the boat on the water in race conditions.
3300 packs (6600mAh total) might work, but I would suggest a little more head room. 5000’s (10,000mAh total) is more than necessary IMO. However, the extra weight of the batteries might be helpful.

Thank you!

[eric113]

I ditch the aquacraft motors. They aren’t fast some the other motors out there.

You can try M440/3 but you need to make sure temps are in check with where you are running. I ran a 440/3 on my hydro and was coming back 160-170* on the motor. Swapped to m440/2 and temps were 120’s*

I tend run 5000mah packs for 5-6 laps

For strut try with neutral even with ride pads. Play around with battery placement. Like Longball said it all going to depend on water you run on and driving style.

[CHowarth]

I ditch the aquacraft motors. They aren’t fast some the other motors out there.

You can try M440/3 but you need to make sure temps are in check with where you are running. I ran a 440/3 on my hydro and was coming back 160-170* on the motor. Swapped to m440/2 and temps were 120’s*

I tend run 5000mah packs for 5-6 laps

For strut try with neutral even with ride pads. Play around with battery placement. Like Longball said it all going to depend on water you run on and driving style.

Thanks for the info.

[CHowarth]

Hi Charlie,

I’ve run the Lucas Oil in Offshore and this was my set-up…

Motor – 1800kv AquaCraft (come with the boat)
Batteries – GrimRacer 4200 4S wired in parallel for 8400mAh total (4S2P)
Prop – Octura 440/3 blade

This set up wasn’t the fastest, but it made the boat drivable and stayed on the water. I rarely had to deal with heat issues.

Strut wise, I was little deeper with some angle to keep the nose down. You will need work with the strut depth to find a spot that works with your driving style and keeps the boat on the water in race conditions.
3300 packs (6600mAh total) might work, but I would suggest a little more head room. 5000’s (10,000mAh total) is more than necessary IMO. However, the extra weight of the batteries might be helpful.

Wired in parallel - This just means they are each plugged into the ESC as it's configured correct? In series requires a separate adapter to wire the batteries together, if I'm thinking about this correctly.

[dethow]

Wiring.jpg

[CHowarth]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]157905[/ATTACH]

I somewhat get that but was asking more specifically about the aquacraft ESC. I don't need anything other than hooking up the batteries for parallel whereas, in series would require a special connector.

Sorry, very basic question; just hoping to not fry my electronics the first time out!

[dethow]

Sorry I thought that would answer your question. Diagram shows how you'd connect to an esc in parallel or series.

Your stock Aquacraft 60amp esc should be setup for series battery connection to use (2) 2S batteries or 14.8v. If you connect two (2) 4S batteries in this configuration you will be giving the esc 8S or 29.6v and you will fry the esc.
AQ ESC.jpg

If you want to go with a two (2) 4S in a parallel setup (as recommended) then you'll need to remove the deans connectors, leaving just a single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. Then connect each red and black wire to your batteries using your connectors of choice.

This would be an example of a parallel wiring harness if you put a new male deans connector at the end of the single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. You would then have two male deans connectors to your (2) 4S batteries.
Parallel.jpg

[CHowarth]

Sorry I thought that would answer your question. Diagram shows how you'd connect to an esc in parallel or series.

Your stock Aquacraft 60amp esc should be setup for series battery connection to use (2) 2S batteries or 14.8v. If you connect two (2) 4S batteries in this configuration you will be giving the esc 8S or 29.6v and you will fry the esc.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]157909[/ATTACH]

If you want to go with a two (2) 4S in a parallel setup (as recommended) then you'll need to remove the deans connectors, leaving just a single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. Then connect each red and black wire to your batteries using your connectors of choice.

This would be an example of a parallel wiring harness if you put a new male deans connector at the end of the single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. You would then have two male deans connectors to your (2) 4S batteries.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]157908[/ATTACH]

And the diagram probably should have answered my question so please excuse my ignorance. This explanation was incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!

[dethow]

If you want to simplify and stick with stock connectors then go with two (2) 2S batteries attached in the stock series configuration. You should go with 6000mAh or greater batteries. This will give you 6000mAh of 4S power 14.8v which will give you enough weight to help keep the boat on the water and a good run time.

Most typically charge batteries between heats. If you want to make it through 2 heats as originally stated you'll probably have to do the parallel setup with at least 8400mAh gained from two (2) 4S 4200mAh batteries hooked up in parallel to give you a total of 14.8v and 8400mAh.

[CHowarth]

If you want to simplify and stick with stock connectors then go with two (2) 2S batteries attached in the stock series configuration. You should go with 6000mAh or greater batteries. This will give you 6000mAh of 4S power 14.8v which will give you enough weight to help keep the boat on the water and a good run time.

Most typically charge batteries between heats. If you want to make it through 2 heats as originally stated you'll probably have to do the parallel setup with at least 8400mAh gained from two (2) 4S 4200mAh batteries hooked up in parallel to give you a total of 14.8v and 8400mAh.

Thanks so much! My concern was having enough mah to get through 4min heats; 6000 mah should be enough? I like the idea of keeping it as is to allow the option of running smaller 2s packs for heat racing.

[dethow]

Thanks so much! My concern was having enough mah to get through 4min heats; 6000 mah should be enough?

6000mAh should get you there in a 4 minute heat. I honestly didn't realize you were talking about a 4 minute heat. I thought you were talking about a 6 lap sprint race heats. My mistake given the title of this thread.

For 4 minutes I'd search out the largest 2S batteries you can get, like 6500mAh. Here is a link to some Giant Power 2S 6500mAh batteries.

https://www.mojoracingproducts.com/collections/graphene-2-0-giant-power-70c-140c-lipos/products/2s-7-4v-2-cell-6500mah-70c-140c-graphene-2-0-compact-p-limited-special-lipo-battery

But to be absolutely sure, yes... you should probably re-wire your setup for parallel and use two (2) 4S 4000mAh batteries with would give you a total of 8000mAh as a minimum.

[dethow]

Here's what you do to run either way…
(2) 2S for 6 lap sprint races (5000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 2S 5000mAh in series)
(2) 4S for 4 minute offshore races. (8000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 4S 4000mAh in parallel)

Here’s what I do… you can use your choice of connectors to accomplish this.
As I said earlier, cut off your existing series setup with deans connectors.
Put male 6.5mm bullets on the esc positive and negative. Then make yourself both parallel and series harnesses to connect to those bullets. I use green Castle 6.5mm plugs for all my batteries. I even have a harness for a single 4S battery if I want to use that way.
DSC00002.JPGDSC00001.JPG

Also… most guys simply use 5.5mm bullets at the end of the esc leads and same on batteries. Most prefer this method because it eliminates that extra set of connectors I have between my different harnesses and the esc. More connections have more potential for more resistance.
- To hookup (2) 2S in series: connect one 2S battery’s negative to the esc negative and then the other 2S battery’s positive to the esc positive. Then you have a separate wire with 5.5 bullets to connect the remaining positive and negatives on the batteries together.
- To hook up (2) 4S in parallel: use a parallel adapter set like shown in photo which allows you to connect the positive and negative of both batteries straight to the esc leads.
DSC00003.jpgDSC00004.jpg

The typical is to put a male bullet on the battery negative and a female bullet on the battery positive. And thus put a female bullet on the esc negative and a male on the esc positive.

[CHowarth]

Here's what you do to run either way…
(2) 2S for 6 lap sprint races (5000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 2S 5000mAh in series)
(2) 4S for 4 minute offshore races. (8000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 4S 4000mAh in parallel)

Here’s what I do… you can use your choice of connectors to accomplish this.
As I said earlier, cut off your existing series setup with deans connectors.
Put male 6.5mm bullets on the esc positive and negative. Then make yourself both parallel and series harnesses to connect to those bullets. I use green Castle 6.5mm plugs for all my batteries. I even have a harness for a single 4S battery if I want to use that way.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]157923[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]157924[/ATTACH]

Also… most guys simply use 5.5mm bullets at the end of the esc leads and same on batteries. Most prefer this method because it eliminates that extra set of connectors I have between my different harnesses and the esc. More connections have more potential for more resistance.
- To hookup (2) 2S in series: connect one 2S battery’s negative to the esc negative and then the other 2S battery’s positive to the esc positive. Then you have a separate wire with 5.5 bullets to connect the remaining positive and negatives on the batteries together.
- To hook up (2) 4S in parallel: use a parallel adapter set like shown in photo which allows you to connect the positive and negative of both batteries straight to the esc leads.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]157922[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]157921[/ATTACH]

The typical is to put a male bullet on the battery negative and a female bullet on the battery positive. And thus put a female bullet on the esc negative and a male on the esc positive.

Thank you so much for your time and the examples. That all makes sense; I'll get busy putting this into action!