Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: P Limited Offshore Setup - Lucas Oil

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default P Limited Offshore Setup - Lucas Oil

    I've read enough to be dangerous and most setup threads tend to be beyond what I'm looking for so, please pardon if this is post is totally redundant.

    Looking for prop and battery size suggestions for making the 4 minute heats, as well as any setup starting points.

    I'm changing the flex shaft and coupler. - any other changes I should make off the bat?

    Props - x442, x642, m445?

    Battery size? - I'm looking to get 2, 4S packs so is 3300 enough? Will 5000 get me through two heats?

    Strut setting - Flat? Seems most mentioned 1/8" above sponsons - still correct?

    Again, I apologize if this has all been written. I searched and read a bunch and most seemed to jump to 6s or the 2030kv aquacraft motor.

    Thanks for any input!

    Charley

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,022

    Default

    Hi Charlie,

    I’ve run the Lucas Oil in Offshore and this was my set-up…

    Motor – 1800kv AquaCraft (come with the boat)
    Batteries – GrimRacer 4200 4S wired in parallel for 8400mAh total (4S2P)
    Prop – Octura 440/3 blade

    This set up wasn’t the fastest, but it made the boat drivable and stayed on the water. I rarely had to deal with heat issues.

    Strut wise, I was little deeper with some angle to keep the nose down. You will need work with the strut depth to find a spot that works with your driving style and keeps the boat on the water in race conditions.
    3300 packs (6600mAh total) might work, but I would suggest a little more head room. 5000’s (10,000mAh total) is more than necessary IMO. However, the extra weight of the batteries might be helpful.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Hi Charlie,

    I’ve run the Lucas Oil in Offshore and this was my set-up…

    Motor – 1800kv AquaCraft (come with the boat)
    Batteries – GrimRacer 4200 4S wired in parallel for 8400mAh total (4S2P)
    Prop – Octura 440/3 blade

    This set up wasn’t the fastest, but it made the boat drivable and stayed on the water. I rarely had to deal with heat issues.

    Strut wise, I was little deeper with some angle to keep the nose down. You will need work with the strut depth to find a spot that works with your driving style and keeps the boat on the water in race conditions.
    3300 packs (6600mAh total) might work, but I would suggest a little more head room. 5000’s (10,000mAh total) is more than necessary IMO. However, the extra weight of the batteries might be helpful.
    Thank you!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Tx
    Posts
    159

    Default

    I ditch the aquacraft motors. They aren’t fast some the other motors out there.

    You can try M440/3 but you need to make sure temps are in check with where you are running. I ran a 440/3 on my hydro and was coming back 160-170* on the motor. Swapped to m440/2 and temps were 120’s*

    I tend run 5000mah packs for 5-6 laps

    For strut try with neutral even with ride pads. Play around with battery placement. Like Longball said it all going to depend on water you run on and driving style.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eric113 View Post
    I ditch the aquacraft motors. They aren’t fast some the other motors out there.

    You can try M440/3 but you need to make sure temps are in check with where you are running. I ran a 440/3 on my hydro and was coming back 160-170* on the motor. Swapped to m440/2 and temps were 120’s*

    I tend run 5000mah packs for 5-6 laps

    For strut try with neutral even with ride pads. Play around with battery placement. Like Longball said it all going to depend on water you run on and driving style.
    Thanks for the info.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by longballlumber View Post
    Hi Charlie,

    I’ve run the Lucas Oil in Offshore and this was my set-up…

    Motor – 1800kv AquaCraft (come with the boat)
    Batteries – GrimRacer 4200 4S wired in parallel for 8400mAh total (4S2P)
    Prop – Octura 440/3 blade

    This set up wasn’t the fastest, but it made the boat drivable and stayed on the water. I rarely had to deal with heat issues.

    Strut wise, I was little deeper with some angle to keep the nose down. You will need work with the strut depth to find a spot that works with your driving style and keeps the boat on the water in race conditions.
    3300 packs (6600mAh total) might work, but I would suggest a little more head room. 5000’s (10,000mAh total) is more than necessary IMO. However, the extra weight of the batteries might be helpful.
    Wired in parallel - This just means they are each plugged into the ESC as it's configured correct? In series requires a separate adapter to wire the batteries together, if I'm thinking about this correctly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    1,472

    Default

    Have fun with that....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dethow View Post
    I somewhat get that but was asking more specifically about the aquacraft ESC. I don't need anything other than hooking up the batteries for parallel whereas, in series would require a special connector.

    Sorry, very basic question; just hoping to not fry my electronics the first time out!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    1,472

    Default

    Sorry I thought that would answer your question. Diagram shows how you'd connect to an esc in parallel or series.

    Your stock Aquacraft 60amp esc should be setup for series battery connection to use (2) 2S batteries or 14.8v. If you connect two (2) 4S batteries in this configuration you will be giving the esc 8S or 29.6v and you will fry the esc.
    AQ ESC.jpg

    If you want to go with a two (2) 4S in a parallel setup (as recommended) then you'll need to remove the deans connectors, leaving just a single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. Then connect each red and black wire to your batteries using your connectors of choice.

    This would be an example of a parallel wiring harness if you put a new male deans connector at the end of the single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. You would then have two male deans connectors to your (2) 4S batteries.
    Parallel.jpg
    Have fun with that....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dethow View Post
    Sorry I thought that would answer your question. Diagram shows how you'd connect to an esc in parallel or series.

    Your stock Aquacraft 60amp esc should be setup for series battery connection to use (2) 2S batteries or 14.8v. If you connect two (2) 4S batteries in this configuration you will be giving the esc 8S or 29.6v and you will fry the esc.
    AQ ESC.jpg

    If you want to go with a two (2) 4S in a parallel setup (as recommended) then you'll need to remove the deans connectors, leaving just a single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. Then connect each red and black wire to your batteries using your connectors of choice.

    This would be an example of a parallel wiring harness if you put a new male deans connector at the end of the single positive (red) and a single negative (black) wire coming from the esc. You would then have two male deans connectors to your (2) 4S batteries.
    Parallel.jpg
    And the diagram probably should have answered my question so please excuse my ignorance. This explanation was incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    1,472

    Default

    If you want to simplify and stick with stock connectors then go with two (2) 2S batteries attached in the stock series configuration. You should go with 6000mAh or greater batteries. This will give you 6000mAh of 4S power 14.8v which will give you enough weight to help keep the boat on the water and a good run time.

    Most typically charge batteries between heats. If you want to make it through 2 heats as originally stated you'll probably have to do the parallel setup with at least 8400mAh gained from two (2) 4S 4200mAh batteries hooked up in parallel to give you a total of 14.8v and 8400mAh.
    Have fun with that....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dethow View Post
    If you want to simplify and stick with stock connectors then go with two (2) 2S batteries attached in the stock series configuration. You should go with 6000mAh or greater batteries. This will give you 6000mAh of 4S power 14.8v which will give you enough weight to help keep the boat on the water and a good run time.

    Most typically charge batteries between heats. If you want to make it through 2 heats as originally stated you'll probably have to do the parallel setup with at least 8400mAh gained from two (2) 4S 4200mAh batteries hooked up in parallel to give you a total of 14.8v and 8400mAh.
    Thanks so much! My concern was having enough mah to get through 4min heats; 6000 mah should be enough? I like the idea of keeping it as is to allow the option of running smaller 2s packs for heat racing.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    1,472

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CHowarth View Post
    Thanks so much! My concern was having enough mah to get through 4min heats; 6000 mah should be enough?
    6000mAh should get you there in a 4 minute heat. I honestly didn't realize you were talking about a 4 minute heat. I thought you were talking about a 6 lap sprint race heats. My mistake given the title of this thread.

    For 4 minutes I'd search out the largest 2S batteries you can get, like 6500mAh. Here is a link to some Giant Power 2S 6500mAh batteries.
    https://www.mojoracingproducts.com/c...l-lipo-battery

    But to be absolutely sure, yes... you should probably re-wire your setup for parallel and use two (2) 4S 4000mAh batteries with would give you a total of 8000mAh as a minimum.
    Last edited by dethow; 03-24-2018 at 09:55 PM.
    Have fun with that....

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    1,472

    Default

    Here's what you do to run either way…
    (2) 2S for 6 lap sprint races (5000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 2S 5000mAh in series)
    (2) 4S for 4 minute offshore races. (8000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 4S 4000mAh in parallel)

    Here’s what I do… you can use your choice of connectors to accomplish this.
    As I said earlier, cut off your existing series setup with deans connectors.
    Put male 6.5mm bullets on the esc positive and negative. Then make yourself both parallel and series harnesses to connect to those bullets. I use green Castle 6.5mm plugs for all my batteries. I even have a harness for a single 4S battery if I want to use that way.
    DSC00002.JPGDSC00001.JPG

    Also… most guys simply use 5.5mm bullets at the end of the esc leads and same on batteries. Most prefer this method because it eliminates that extra set of connectors I have between my different harnesses and the esc. More connections have more potential for more resistance.
    - To hookup (2) 2S in series: connect one 2S battery’s negative to the esc negative and then the other 2S battery’s positive to the esc positive. Then you have a separate wire with 5.5 bullets to connect the remaining positive and negatives on the batteries together.
    - To hook up (2) 4S in parallel: use a parallel adapter set like shown in photo which allows you to connect the positive and negative of both batteries straight to the esc leads.
    DSC00003.jpgDSC00004.jpg

    The typical is to put a male bullet on the battery negative and a female bullet on the battery positive. And thus put a female bullet on the esc negative and a male on the esc positive.
    Last edited by dethow; 03-24-2018 at 09:57 PM.
    Have fun with that....

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dethow View Post
    Here's what you do to run either way…
    (2) 2S for 6 lap sprint races (5000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 2S 5000mAh in series)
    (2) 4S for 4 minute offshore races. (8000mAh min recommended, accomplished w/ (2) 4S 4000mAh in parallel)

    Here’s what I do… you can use your choice of connectors to accomplish this.
    As I said earlier, cut off your existing series setup with deans connectors.
    Put male 6.5mm bullets on the esc positive and negative. Then make yourself both parallel and series harnesses to connect to those bullets. I use green Castle 6.5mm plugs for all my batteries. I even have a harness for a single 4S battery if I want to use that way.
    DSC00002.JPGDSC00001.JPG

    Also… most guys simply use 5.5mm bullets at the end of the esc leads and same on batteries. Most prefer this method because it eliminates that extra set of connectors I have between my different harnesses and the esc. More connections have more potential for more resistance.
    - To hookup (2) 2S in series: connect one 2S battery’s negative to the esc negative and then the other 2S battery’s positive to the esc positive. Then you have a separate wire with 5.5 bullets to connect the remaining positive and negatives on the batteries together.
    - To hook up (2) 4S in parallel: use a parallel adapter set like shown in photo which allows you to connect the positive and negative of both batteries straight to the esc leads.
    DSC00003.jpgDSC00004.jpg

    The typical is to put a male bullet on the battery negative and a female bullet on the battery positive. And thus put a female bullet on the esc negative and a male on the esc positive.
    Thank you so much for your time and the examples. That all makes sense; I'll get busy putting this into action!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    7,628

    Default

    You can’t run 2S in P Limited class nor would you want to - amp draw would be double that of your competitors. My Motley Crew sprint setup is a ProBoat 1500 Kv motor with an x447 or x450 prop on 4S1P/5000 mAh, great in rougher water. That setup uses about 2750 mAh in a 6 lap heat. For a faster setup on smoother water I’ve run the AQ1800 motor with an m445, that used ~2500 mAh for 6 laps plus mill. For a four-minute heat you’ll want at least 6600 mAh and a slightly smaller prop, offshore has lower average speeds and a lot more acceleration, which pulls a lot more amps.


    .
    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    You can’t run 2S in P Limited class nor would you want to - amp draw would be double that of your competitors. My Motley Crew sprint setup is a ProBoat 1500 Kv motor with an x447 or x450 prop on 4S1P/5000 mAh, great in rougher water. That setup uses about 2750 mAh in a 6 lap heat. For a faster setup on smoother water I’ve run the AQ1800 motor with an m445, that used ~2500 mAh for 6 laps plus mill. For a four-minute heat you’ll want at least 6600 mAh and a slightly smaller prop, offshore has lower average speeds and a lot more acceleration, which pulls a lot more amps.


    .
    Thanks. I was trying to see if I could setup a 2,2s setup for offshore, not just a 2s. It looks like 4s is the way to go, however. Thanks for the info.

    How do you know how much mah was used? Watch the next charge?

    Thanks again.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,460

    Default

    Yes. Keep a record of the amount of mah to recharge. Always run the boat on fully recharged batteries so you can keep track of this critical parameter.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Yes. Keep a record of the amount of mah to recharge. Always run the boat on fully recharged batteries so you can keep track of this critical parameter.
    Thank you!

    Anyone try a 1715-17-45%?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    1,472

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CHowarth View Post
    How do you know how much mah was used?
    Get yourself one of these.... Shows you the total voltage, voltage of each cell and a percentage of mAh left.
    Offshore is out of stock, but also here's a link to an eBay seller.

    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...emp-eossentry3

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/HYPERION-EO...MAAOSwfXFao5UY
    Have fun with that....

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dethow View Post
    Get yourself one of these.... Shows you the total voltage, voltage of each cell and a percentage of mAh left.
    Offshore is out of stock, but also here's a link to an eBay seller.

    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...emp-eossentry3

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/HYPERION-EO...MAAOSwfXFao5UY
    Thank you.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    This got lost in my endless battery questions and wanted to see if anyone has tried a 1715-17-45%?

    Thanks all!

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Finally starting on the boat. Couple of questions:

    Does the strut have a bushing in it already? I didn't buy the OSE strut bushing as it seems there is something there, but wanted to confirm.

    I bought the OSE replacement flexshaft already and typically didn't run a liner with a strut bushing in my nitro boats. Do I need the teflon liner for any reason? Doesn't seem like it would fit anyway.

    Lastly, did anyone change the screws on the motor mount? Those hex heads are bound to strip. And again, if so, what size screws are they?

    Thanks!

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •