All the decals arrived from Mike @ Thunder-boat Graphics nice wrk as usual TNX MIKE
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All the decals arrived from Mike @ Thunder-boat Graphics nice wrk as usual TNX MIKE
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Looking great, are you going to seal around the strut or compartment it off?
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Namba District 16
1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joe, 1/8 Bud, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.
Its in a water tight compartment with a transom drain. I do put some silicon around it to help the seal . I like to be able to adjust the strut to tweak the boats ride attitude for different prop's Ect.
Awesome, I moved the rudder in my Joe’s to its own box in the back to get rid of the long pushrod. See how it works when the water softens.
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Namba District 16
1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joe, 1/8 Bud, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.
Bore-dumb set in while waiting for some e-pucky to cure. So i wired up the battery's ESC , RX and motor just to make sure everything was wired correctly.
Plugged them all in and no smoke came out ( that's always a good thing) so it looks like that's GTG.
Made a couple of test runs and the motor ran 32,600 + RPM's on 8's @ a little over 30VDC no load And 30,263 RPM @ around 26.6 VDC no load
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Back to the Much HATED body & fender WRK
Spent a little time away from the body and fender work to align the Strut and Turn fin to the hull center line.
On the original mock-up I spent quit a bit of time setting up the strut holes so only needed some light tweaking needed there
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Since the back of the Sponson is not very flat. I had to set-up the bracket in my milling machine taper from the outside to the inboard side about .020 to bring the turn fin in line. Also bedded the bracket mounting the surface with some Epoxy so the bracket would sit flat on the Sponson surface
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I found this to be a reasonably important step to insure the boat track's right on the straight a ways especially the turn fin.
So I have procrastinated enough today back to slinging plastic (body filler)
All the painting supplies have been ordered the closest color match to the original DuPont Imron #29198 that would cost over $200. (To dam much) to paint the hull plus that stuff is a highly toxic carcinogen.
So after much research found a Urethane bright red for a 1971 Plymouth Barracuda from Touch up Direct at a much more reasonable cost. Hopefully all the body & fender wrk will be finished when the paint arrives next week
Last edited by Tom G; 04-05-2018 at 01:49 PM.
Most of the body and fender works is finished started painting some of the parts with primer. This is going to take some time. I do not have access to a spray booth and my garage is not heated and naturally the WX in Wa.state is lets say CRAP this time of yr so can only make progress when the temp is above 60 deg. Do not think that SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED would be happy with me stinking up the house painting a boat.
While that's kind of boring I broke out the Air Brush and painted the cockpit interiors for both the FE & Nitro boats
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Fab of the cowling and drivers cockpit done
I will have to make 1 major change. I have decided to use a different ESC because the one previously listed in the Spec. was not waterproof so swapped-it out to a 200amp ZTW Seal which half the weight of the the other one and totally thru off the boats CG.
I will have too move the battery's forward to what was originally for the electronic''s box area. All my electronics's ESC RX and Servo are water proof so there locations are not critical.
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Last edited by TomG; 04-26-2018 at 10:39 AM.
Looking good Tom. It's coming together nicely.
I have the same problem with painting here too. Both with the weather & with 'Her Indoors'. Doesn't like the smell of paint throughout the house for some reason.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320
So, after a motorcycle accident (rear ended by a texting drunk driver) finally able to get back to this build.
Progress after getting back on my feet. Hull and all the other assorted parts primed. Built a boat stand and made an aluminum exhaust tube from .020 6061 T6 sheet.
And now MORE BODY AND FENDER WORK all those little seam cracks, pin holes, and other imperfection’s that could not be seen in the fiberglass till some paint went ons.
I HATE MIND NUMBING B&F WORK
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More to Follow
During the ongoing construction of my Miss Bud FE boat I was looking at different type's of chrome coatings for the turbine exhaust tube. Tried several ( 10 in all) of the rattle can spray paints but non of the brands produced and finish that was satisfactory. (not much better the silver spray paint)
On a DIY Custom car show they had a product review of HYDRO CHROMING that can be applied to ANY base material plastic ,fiberglass, ECT. The results looked just like the Electroplating process chrome.
https://youtu.be/c9-wFTUhpT4
Long story short sent the aforementioned exhaust tube to a guy in Cali. the results were awesome but a little $$. That depends greatly!!! on the amount of body and fender work U do prior to shipping the part just like real Chrome preparation is every thing .
I'm quit pleased with the end result the finish is very tough and Nitro fuel safe. Shop around the the cost varies greatly. My cost was only $60.00 cause of all the time I spent on the B&F work.
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Man , that came out nice!!!
Soo how are you going to attach the cowling to the hull?
1.Tape
2.Some type of connector
3.Magnets
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