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Thread: New 2004 Miss Budweiser T-6 Build

  1. #1
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    Default New 2004 Miss Budweiser T-6 Build

    Basic :Spec’s

    1/8 Scale Hull is by RCBc All Carbon Fiber SG121-H running as 2004 Miss Budweiser T-6

    ESC: Alien Power Syst. 300 Amp on 8s 29.6 VDC

    Motor: NEU 1527 /1.5 /8mm on 8s & Water Jacket
    Motor Mount by HRC Mfg. 1527 floor mount
    ]IMG_1220.JPG
    Motor Coupler by MBP 8mm to ¼
    Battery’s: 2ea Nano Tech 6000 Mah in Series for 8S 29.6 VDC

    All the running gear is From Acuu-Tech
    Authentic Scale Strut , Turn Fin , Rudder Bracket & Tapered single pick-up Rudder

    Prop's By ABC # H-2215 -19' rake -38BAR & #H-2315-17' rake-45 BAR 2 blade Cleavers, thinned, sharpened & balanced. by Me

    First Day of the build removed all the release agent ( pain in the BUTT) established the boats Center line, and mounted the rudder bracket and rear wing vertical stabilizer bracket
    IMG_1216.JPGIMG_1217.JPGIMG_1219.JPG

    MORE TO FOLLOW Next mount Turn Fin ,Strut ,stuffing box & motor[B][/B
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tom G; 02-23-2018 at 01:27 PM.

  2. #2
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    Nice, I have a sport hydro build coming up soon myself. Subscribed

  3. #3
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    Nice$$$
    ~~~~~~~~`Mach 5 racing'~~~~~~~~~~~~
    ****2008/9 MMEU LSO, 2008 LSH CHAMP****
    ~~~~~~~70 MPH Club Member!~~~~~~~~~

  4. #4
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    Back to it the installed the turn fin, cut the hole and installed the strut. Roughly set the location for the Motor, battery’s and ESC to get a idea ware the C/G balance point will be .

    With battery’s located in the wells for fuel tanks in a nitro boat and the ESC placed in the bow’s forward radio box. The balance point is 3/4 TO 1 inch behind the rear of the sponson, which is close to the Newton Marines drawings c/g’s location

    Note : When U move the rudder to the left side of the hull the holes in the rudder pivot block are upside down.
    Instead of modifying the rudder. I took a chance and ordered the rudder pivot block for a Speed Master Turn Fin Bracket (they make both right & left hand pivot block’s) which by the way are identical to the Accu-Tech pivot block’s and fit perfectly .
    PROBLEM SOLVED :

    Motor mount holes drilled an motor installed. .
    IMG_1222.JPGIMG_1229.JPGIMG_1227.JPG

    Time to layout the locate and cut the hole for the stuffing box I always HATE this process TO EASY TO SCREW IT UP

  5. #5
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    CG sounds perfect! Is this going to be 1/8 scale build?

  6. #6
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    Yes 1/8 Scale

  7. #7
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    Have you established a finished weight yet Tom? I’m just curious for my build, I have a 2028 and a 1527 and still contemplating which to use. The Castle motor is waaaay heavier

  8. #8
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    Perfect exactly what I’m looking for

  9. #9
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    Screen Shot 2017-12-19 at 12.02.47 PM.jpg My 1/8 Nitro boat RCBC SG118-H 1994 Miss Bud T-3 hull weights 18 lbs RTR with Fuel

    I'll probably get torched for mentioning a nitro boat on a FE site LOL
    I think the FE boat might be a little heaver cause the Battery's & ESC weight more then the engine and exhaust system
    Last edited by Tom G; 02-24-2018 at 01:18 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom G View Post
    Screen Shot 2017-12-19 at 12.02.47 PM.jpg My 1/8 Nitro boat RCBC SG118-H 1994 Miss Bud T-3 hull weights 18 lbs RTR with Fuel

    I'll probably get torched for mentioning a nitro boat on a FE site LOL
    I think the FE boat might be a little heaver cause the Battery's & ESC weight more then the engine and exhaust system
    Oh man I’m shooting for 16lbs on my Edge Hydro. Or at least that is what I think I can pull off. I should be good with a 1527 or 1530 then.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom G View Post
    Screen Shot 2017-12-19 at 12.02.47 PM.jpg My 1/8 Nitro boat RCBC SG118-H 1994 Miss Bud T-3 hull weights 18 lbs RTR with Fuel

    I'll probably get torched for mentioning a nitro boat on a FE site LOL
    LOL I think you'll be fine.
    MODEL BOAT RACER
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  12. #12
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    What scale Hydro are U building 1/10 1/12

    good luck Hope U make 16 lbs

    My bare hull is 6.5 lbs As it sits in pic with the motor & the of majority hardware is 7 lb 11 oz plus the battery's ESC 6 .7 lbs = 13.7 lbs not including the rest of the other peripherals ,cowls, wings and the rest of the electronics, paint ect:

    IMG_1236.JPG

  13. #13
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    The stuffing box hole has been cut & the tube fiber glass clothed & epoxy-ed into place
    IMG_1233.JPG
    IMG_1236.JPG

    As soon as the epoxy cures I'll grind off the excess e-pucky off and cut the tube to length

    More to follow

  14. #14
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    The stuffing box install and shaft alignment are done with mock up. I sure like the HRC Mfg motor mount made the prop shaft shaft alignment a snap.

    If I hadn't screwed up the only piece of 5/16 tubing I have for the flex shaft while trying to arc it to align with the strut the drive line would've been finished .

    Next try I'LL use the ole trick of packing it full of ultra fine sand and heat it slightly with a heat gun so it will no kink agn.
    HOPEFULLY
    If anyone has a Simpler way to bend the tubing I'm open to suggestions

    IMG_1239.JPG

  15. #15
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    Steve has that covered :)
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/bend-brass-tubing.php


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Namba District 16
    1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joe, 1/8 Bud, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.

  16. #16
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    I find the simplest way, without heat or salt or sand etc, is to roll a couple of layers of masking tape around the 1/4" flex shaft to make it a slightly better fit into the tube. The tape only needs to be a bit longer than the bend you want to make.
    Then insert it into the tube & form the bend with your thumbs & fingers, a little bit at a time while moving your pressure point backwards & forwards along the length of the curve that you want.

    It works much like the bending springs we use at work to bend PVC conduits.

    There are also any number of places that sell external bending springs for small tubes.

    http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spring-tube-bender

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by pescador View Post
    Steve has that covered :)
    https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/bend-brass-tubing.php


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the input
    I had already had annealed the tube. BUT I had a brain Fart a local guy here reminded me to leave the flex in the tube

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    I find the simplest way, without heat or salt or sand etc, is to roll a couple of layers of masking tape around the 1/4" flex shaft to make it a slightly better fit into the tube. The tape only needs to be a bit longer than the bend you want to make.
    Then insert it into the tube & form the bend with your thumbs & fingers, a little bit at a time while moving your pressure point backwards & forwards along the length of the curve that you want.

    It works much like the bending springs we use at work to bend PVC conduits.

    There are also any number of places that sell external bending springs for small tubes.

    http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spring-tube-bender
    Thanks for the input
    I had already had annealed the tube. BUT I had a brain Fart a local guy here reminded me to leave the flex shaft in the tube and slide some heat shrink tube over the flex shaft to help take up the extra space in the tube .

  19. #19
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    Cool.
    I like the heat shrink idea. Sounds easier than rolling the masking tape around the flex.
    I'll give that a go next time.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    Cool.
    I like the heat shrink idea. Sounds easier than rolling the masking tape around the flex.
    I'll give that a go next time.
    Plus there is no chance of the tape getting stuck in the Tube. If the heat shrink stays in the tube for some weird reason just take a heat gun and blow hot air down the tube it will shrink the heat shrink tubing and it will fall right out of the brass tube

  21. #21
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    A little more forward progress for the mock up. Add some CF reinforcement to the high stress areas of the rear wing vertical stabilizers.

    Fab-d up the attachment point's for the upper rear wing stabilizer rods.

    A little more tweaking to get all the angles right ,install some flotation foam & then epoxy the vertical stabilizer half's together and move on too the rear wing and front canard
    IMG_1250.JPG IMG_1247.JPG IMG_1248.JPG

  22. #22
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    Hi Tom.
    Looking good.

    Could you give a few more details on how the fin braces are attached into the fins please. The photos you have posted won't enlarge when I click on them for some reason.
    Where did you get the bits & pieces for the rods & attachments? I need to make up something for my U-3 Turbinator.

    Also, in relation to your CoG. Have you measured it with everything in place including the fins & wing & cowling.
    I ask this because your batteries seem to be so far back behind the sponson transoms in your earlier posts.
    I need to get my batteries right up into the nose pod to get the CoG within an inch of the transoms. And the motor as far forward as practical. Again, that's allowing for everything else in place along the rear of the boat.

    Cheers.
    Paul.

  23. #23
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    That boat in the photo looks really familiar.

  24. #24
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    Where did you get the bits & pieces for the rods & attachments? I need to make up something for my U-3 Turbinator.

    The bracket is a piece of .065 x 1/4 x 1 1/2 stainless flat stock bent 90deg.s available from Octura for air plane rudder support hardware and held in place with epoxy on the inside an 2 ea 2-56 screws & nuts and washers . Available @ Micro Fasteners
    IMG_1252.JPGIMG_1254.JPG


    RC Boat Co sells the rest of the the hardware bracket and rods ect http://rcboatcompany.com/AluminumParts.html

    Also, in relation to your CoG. Have you measured it with everything in place including the fins & wing & cowling.
    I ask this because your batteries seem to be so far back behind the sponson transoms in your earlier posts.
    I need to get my batteries right up into the nose pod to get the CoG within an inch of the transoms. And the motor as far forward as practical. Again, that's allowing for everything else in place along the rear of the boat.


    The CG is close to what was mention as pictured all the hardware -motor installed and cowling just sitting on the boat. And balancing on a 1/4 dia rod across the width of the boat, 1 inch behind the sponson transoms. My 300 A ESC is quit heave @ 1 lbs .

    With the battery's in the nose forward radio box location it's was quit nose heavy.

    Hope that answers all Ur ??
    Last edited by Tom G; 03-02-2018 at 03:07 PM.

  25. #25
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    Thanks for the info Tom.
    I can easily fashion something up like that from all the Bits'n'Pieces I have lying around. Just needed the visual to kick my old brain into gear.
    The rest of the brackets I can also make.
    Unfortunately the cost & the exchange rate & the postage to Australia, makes them far too expensive to buy. The Egg pod & ram wings cost me a small fortune & the rear wing & fins were out of the question. That's why I'm making my own.
    I'll just have to deal with the weight penalty


    I guess the wooden boats are a lot heavier aft of the sponsons than a glass boat. Plus the fact that I am making the fins & wing from ply, makes them a lot heavier too.

    I'll keep playing around with the weight distribution. A lifting prop & some negative angle on the strut will help of course.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Cheers.
    Paul.

  26. #26
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    Fab of the rear wing vertical stabilizer’s and setting of there camber angles done.

    IMG_1258.JPG

    Time to move on to assembling the rear wing and designing a method so adjusting its caster so is not a total pain in the butt.

    I learned a lot on the Nitro boat and the Definitely not going to do the same design on this FE Hull

  27. #27
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    The CF material I ordered for the rear wing end plates will not be here till Tues. (5 days to travel 500 miles come on USPS Priority Mail a Chihuahua could make the trip faster )

    Since the replacement stuffing box tubing showed up Friday back to that project. So as to keep the build progressing forward. Racing season is stately approaching.

    Installing some heat shrink tubing on the flex shaft to take up the gap between the flex shaft and the tubing, worked like a charm the S bent needed coming out of the thru hull tube and into the strut went off with no issues NO DENTS ,NO DINGS & NO KINKS and the flex shaft an heat shrink tubing all slide out of the brass tube LIKE BUTTER.

    ITS HELL TO GET OLD AND FORGET ALL THE LITTLE TRICKS U USED 20 years ago LMAO

    IMG_1264.JPG

    IMG_1263.JPG

  28. #28
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    Front Ram wings ,Rear wing and Canard mock-up completed.

    IMG_1265.JPG IMG_1267.JPG

    Made a design change from the nitro boats installation
    Instead or a just a¼ inch elongated slot in the trim brackets.

    I’ve added 3 brass inserts in the sponson & vertical stabilizer side plates in addition to the 1/4 elongated slot in the trim brackets to increase the available amount of canard and rear wing adjustment. ( unused holes will be filled with 4-40 stainless set screws when not in use)

    IMG_1270.JPGIMG_1271.JPG

    Now on to mocking up the Cowl , exhaust shroud ,and turbine tray
    Last edited by Tom G; 03-10-2018 at 11:30 AM.

  29. #29
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    Looking good.

  30. #30
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    Installed the 2 under deck cooling water and discharge lines.
    IMG_1291.JPGIMG_1292.JPGIMG_1297.JPG


    Mocking up and fitted the Cowl & Cowl latches, exhaust shroud, and turbine tray close to being done. I just need to clean up and round off of some corners.
    IMG_1288.JPGIMG_1289.JPG


    Paint the Driver and Cockpit then I can install the cockpit floor pan and windshield in the cowling.

    Then it’s on to the much hated body & fender work and paint.
    Last edited by Tom G; 04-03-2018 at 04:02 PM.

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