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Thread: Water proofing and basic lines

  1. #1
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    Default Water proofing and basic lines

    So I am in the middle of setting up two Castle XLX esc for their voyage in my zelos along with two TP Power motors. I went with basic water proof MG Chemicals Silicone Conforming Coating on the boards, drilled out the small fin on the heat sink to add a 4mm aluminum tube for water cooling and about to add some MG chemicals Silicone Heat Transfer Compound between the tube and the heat sink. The tubes fit in snug, trying to see i I am missing anything on these escs?

    They will each be running Ripple Killers’ cap pack which run great on my speed cars.






  2. #2
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    Seems like minimal surface area contact between those tubes and cooling fins. Wouldn't a cooling plate work better?
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    One of the guys on a fb group put up his pic so I just ordered a pair of cooling plates to fit right where the fans were at, so will be adding that as well.

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    For those with little experience with ESCs, let me confirm that the OP’s cooling should work fine. It is almost identical to the Castle Hydra series, just with one pair of lines instead of two. There are more efficient cooling mods which involve removing the extrusions, but for a simple mod it will work.

    For years I ran a heavy P Sport Hydro with a Neu 1521/1.5D and an aircooled Castle ICE 200 controller. I simply installed a 40mm computer fan on top of the ICE using zip ties and completed well over 100 race heats with 100% controller reliability. No water cooling.



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    Good to know, thanks Fluid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Miltoggie View Post
    So I am in the middle of setting up two Castle XLX esc for their voyage in my zelos along with two TP Power motors. I went with basic water proof MG Chemicals Silicone Conforming Coating on the boards, drilled out the small fin on the heat sink to add a 4mm aluminum tube for water cooling and about to add some MG chemicals Silicone Heat Transfer Compound between the tube and the heat sink. The tubes fit in snug, trying to see i I am missing anything on these escs?

    They will each be running Ripple Killers’ cap pack which run great on my speed cars.





    are those 4060 or 4070 what KV ?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    For those with little experience with ESCs, let me confirm that the OP’s cooling should work fine. It is almost identical to the Castle Hydra series, just with one pair of lines instead of two. There are more efficient cooling mods which involve removing the extrusions, but for a simple mod it will work.

    For years I ran a heavy P Sport Hydro with a Neu 1521/1.5D and an aircooled Castle ICE 200 controller. I simply installed a 40mm computer fan on top of the ICE using zip ties and completed well over 100 race heats with 100% controller reliability. No water cooling.



    .
    Thank you Fluid! Type of reassurance I am looking for, I also bought 40x40 cooling plates that will go where the fans were. I have experience with this esc but none watercooling or waterproofing so I do appreciate it.

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    Can I ask what voltage you will be running? You posted excellent pics, and I invite folks to note the voltage rating. Those are 35V caps on an ESC that says 8s. That’s just not enough margin for 8s. I would recommend using 50V caps on 8s for more voltage headroom and make it last longer with the ripple current.

    I think it’s sad these ESC manufacturers cut corners like that... I’ve had to change all the stock caps in my 8s controllers over to 50V. Note: only applies to 8s operation. 6s and lower should work fine, although the ESR on these stock caps is pretty high, meaning their ripple current rating is low...

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    Miltoggie, I can send you a link for good caps if interested. If not, just disregard. That’s a nice cooling mod, I applaude those that “go beyond the covers”!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Miltoggie View Post
    Thank you Fluid! Type of reassurance I am looking for, I also bought 40x40 cooling plates that will go where the fans were. I have experience with this esc but none watercooling or waterproofing so I do appreciate it.
    another thing on the tygon yellow fuel line,, it should be silicone the tygon if it gets hot will soften and might blow off !!! Also I would loose the fan grills it will restrict cooling

  11. #11
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    Let's stay civil guys!! Thanks
    "A quick temper will make a fool of you soon enough."
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bruce Lee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  12. #12
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    This thread is being re-opened at the request of a member. Please uphold the standards OSE members are known for.

    Thanks!
    "A quick temper will make a fool of you soon enough."
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bruce Lee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  13. #13
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    Awesome, thanks Diegoboy. This is a good project to follow.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Can I ask what voltage you will be running? You posted excellent pics, and I invite folks to note the voltage rating. Those are 35V caps on an ESC that says 8s. That’s just not enough margin for 8s. I would recommend using 50V caps on 8s for more voltage headroom and make it last longer with the ripple current.

    I think it’s sad these ESC manufacturers cut corners like that... I’ve had to change all the stock caps in my 8s controllers over to 50V. Note: only applies to 8s operation. 6s and lower should work fine, although the ESR on these stock caps is pretty high, meaning their ripple current rating is low...
    Sorry for digging up old thread.
    But I’m thinking about picking up xlx to run on 8s in my 8th scale hydro.
    Are you talking about replacing all the caps on Board or leaving them and adding 50v caps?
    Would mind posting a link to caps you were mentioning? There a Fry’s eletricronics store around the corner from
    me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Miltoggie, I can send you a link for good caps if interested. If not, just disregard. That’s a nice cooling mod, I applaude those that “go beyond the covers”!
    I would love the link to the caps please

  16. #16
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    Awesome, love the XLX doing a similar job for when the seaking 180's V3 give out, which will not be long with me behind the trigger
    Last edited by Speedfreek; 04-17-2018 at 04:17 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    For those with little experience with ESCs, let me confirm that the OP’s cooling should work fine. It is almost identical to the Castle Hydra series, just with one pair of lines instead of two. There are more efficient cooling mods which involve removing the extrusions, but for a simple mod it will work.

    For years I ran a heavy P Sport Hydro with a Neu 1521/1.5D and an aircooled Castle ICE 200 controller. I simply installed a 40mm computer fan on top of the ICE using zip ties and completed well over 100 race heats with 100% controller reliability. No water cooling.



    .
    How good is that

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miltoggie View Post
    So I am in the middle of setting up two Castle XLX esc for their voyage in my zelos along with two TP Power motors. I went with basic water proof MG Chemicals Silicone Conforming Coating on the boards, drilled out the small fin on the heat sink to add a 4mm aluminum tube for water cooling and about to add some MG chemicals Silicone Heat Transfer Compound between the tube and the heat sink. The tubes fit in snug, trying to see i I am missing anything on these escs?

    They will each be running Ripple Killers’ cap pack which run great on my speed cars.





    What kv motors are they ?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfreek View Post
    I would love the link to the caps please
    Speedfreek, I build my cap banks using the following capacitor: The following part number is for a 63VDC, 2200uF cap on Mouser: 661-EGPD630E222MM35H

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Speedfreek, I build my cap banks using the following capacitor: The following part number is for a 63VDC, 2200uF cap on Mouser: 661-EGPD630E222MM35H
    Wow, there very expensive and out of stock.
    What did it bring your ripple down to , minimum value max value ?
    Thanks

  21. #21
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    Why not use 470uf 35v rubycon ZL series or similar Chemi-con caps?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    Why not use 470uf 35v rubycon ZL series or similar Chemi-con caps?
    I was looking at them last night $10 each

  23. #23
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    No way, $1-2 bucks at the most especially if you buy a few or more, it can get a lot cheaper based on the quantity

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    I ended up using the motors and escs, they worked great on 6s. For the 1ms I gave full throttle the data read 11hp and pulled 325a, on the back of my mind I was a bit worried if it would be completely waterproof and if the cooling would work.. I couldn’t run it that day as good as I wanted since there were sailboats in the lake.

    I did not change the caps since I didn’t run twin 8s, but I did add ripple killer cap packs.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    No way, $1-2 bucks at the most especially if you buy a few or more, it can get a lot cheaper based on the quantity
    On eBay it is $10 each

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miltoggie View Post
    I ended up using the motors and escs, they worked great on 6s. For the 1ms I gave full throttle the data read 11hp and pulled 325a, on the back of my mind I was a bit worried if it would be completely waterproof and if the cooling would work.. I couldn’t run it that day as good as I wanted since there were sailboats in the lake.

    I did not change the caps since I didn’t run twin 8s, but I did add ripple killer cap packs.
    Nice, what kv are the motors ?
    Going to add 10x10mm aluminium rail like another member here on each side by milling out the cooling fin on top and do the silicone conform 3x on the boards these XLX take the amps easily use it on my rc car speed rig pulling 300 + amps no worries

  27. #27
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    what is the XL X rated at compared to say... the Edge 200 (which is technically 240a for water cooled) ?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmitry100 View Post
    what is the XL X rated at compared to say... the Edge 200 (which is technically 240a for water cooled) ?
    400 max
    I am new to electric boats but I have ran my XLX in my cars for a while at 380 ish Amps multiple times.
    Last edited by Speedfreek; 04-20-2018 at 01:38 AM.

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