I decided to make a dedicated thread for this project since it's been progressing so quickly.

Converting my Stealthwake to brushless so I can run it at an indoor pool racing event. I borrowed a Leopard 2850 3580kV motor from my Offshore Infinity and modified the existing motor mount to accept a 25mm hole spacing. While modifying the mount, I realized it was the same mount used in my Zelos 36, funny, but it makes sense that they reuse as many parts as possible. The stock boat uses a 3mm solid shaft so I ordered a 4mm to 3mm brass coupler from Amazon and it spins surprisingly true. The holes are bored dead on to the advertised diameters. The only downside, it shipped with the wrong size grub screws so I had to order some M4 x 3mm stainless flat bottom grub screws from McMaster Carr. They'll be here Monday.

The stock boat uses 1/8" (3.175mm) bore props, but as I mentioned, the solid shaft is actually 3mm. I shimmed the prop shaft behind the drive dog with three wraps of scotch tape. The 1/8" to 3/16" prop adapter not fits snugly with no wobble. Luckily my 3/16" plastic 38mm prop slides right over the adapter with no slop either. I have no idea if 38mm is the right prop as this boat has never been run in this configuration and all the water outside is frozen solid. I've got 32mm, 35mm, 40mm, and 42mm plastic props to use as well if needed. Heats are 3min long, so who knows. Arrover did most of his 2S runs on 45mm sized props, but at a much slower RPM using an 1800kV motor. I'll be spinning faster than he was on 3S, so it seems obvious I need to be smaller than 45mm in diameter.

Finally, the stock rudder was a sloppy mess. I had an unused Speedmaster mini rudder from a Delta Force 26 project that hasn't been started, and it was the perfect size. I centered the mount directly over the existing pushrod hole, marked up the transom, and drilled four new holes. It bolted up easily and I used silicone caulk to seal up the old mounting holes for now. The stock boat has a through hull water pickup under the hull that I'm using for cooling, so the water inlet in the Speedmaster rudder won't be connected to anything for now. I had considered capping it off, but decided to leave it open in the hopes it squirts water straight up like a Yamaha jetski.

It's been covered before that the stock driveline angle is less than optimal for speed, but I'm choosing to do nothing with it for this quick build. The races are not all that serious, so I'm more concerned about making it the full 3min without sinking vs. ride attitude. I had considered raising the stuffing tube exit hole in the transom, but because its a solid shaft, I would have to redo the motor mount inside the hull to match the angle. Too much work. There's another pool event in February, and maybe I'll redo the drive line with a flex cable then.

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