that is what I was thinking, but I am perplexed as to how these 5 pieces becomes a jig. I may have to call ML. lol.IMG_7236.jpg
I've built 8 or so of Mikes kits, but none of them had a framing jig. I've got no idea how that one in your pic would be assembled.
Which kit exactly are you building? Do a search for that kit both here, & on Offshore Electrics, & you may find some photos in someones build log.
Or just do a google search on it & hit the 'images' button at the top of the page. Something might turn up.
But for sure, Mike would help you out if you ask him.
See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Some how I got it in my head that it would be a full frame Jig cradle thing. Got a hold of ML (great customer service) and they let me know it was for the cockpit frames to keep them in the correct shape for the cowl. The kit I have is
1/8th Scale Newton 172/ MHR 0203/ 9601 Extreme Kit, and once they described to me where it went, I could see it in a picture on ML Boatworks website. Sorry to spam up your page here 785Boats, your build looks great.IMG_7240.jpg
I too was thinking of a full frame jig, but now it is explained as just for the front cowling it all makes sense.
No spam involved there mate. It's all about boats & sharing information.Sorry to spam up your page here 785Boats
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Still working night shift but managed to find a bit of time & energy to get the driveline sorted. I think?
I say that because although I have used an S bend stuffing tube in a rigger, I'm not sure on how well it will work with a 1/4" shaft in a 1/8 scale Hydro.
If anyone has tried it, please let me know.
I had to lay the motor flat under the hatch as there was no room to allow the normal angle that most motors are fitted.
I did cut a hole in the hatch to allow the rear of the motor to sit up inside the crank case of the dummy Allison engine.
But it wouldn't fit, & it moved the motor too far back, which ruined the cog.
Anyway, I made up a motor mount from some 50mm x 50mm aluminium angle & epoxied it in place with some ply strengthening gussets on the tub walls to lock it in place. Same as I always do with hydros.
The strut was mounted through the floor. I had to shorten the strut for it to fit under the hatch cover.
Then the tube was bent to shape & epoxied into the hull with a supporting ply brace fitted across the tub near the motor.
The strut mounted on the belly pan.
001.jpg
Under the hull.
004.jpg
Motor mount, stuffing tube & brace.
002.jpg
View from the front.
003.jpg
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I finally got the boat on the water the week before the first club race. It was a little loose on the water, so I'm working on taming it down a bit. It's got good speed and nice handling otherwise. It needs some more time though. We managed a second place finish in spite of the rush job I did to get it done in time. I'm looking forward to making adjustments and trying a few new things to help dial in the performance. Here are a few pics in the shop. She's close to being done, but I'm certainly trying to learn what the boat likes in a setup, prop, weight distribution, etc. I need lots more wheel time with this one, but it's one of my favorite builds ever. Love how the boat looks on the water, but I have a couple more scale appearance things to add to the project. I also need to clear over the graphics before I race it again. I have to miss the next event on the club schedule, so that should allow time to get more done. It's been a fun project so far. Looking forward to seeing more of your build. Thanks for sharing it. Happy Building!!
IMG_0886.jpg IMG_0887.jpg IMG_0888.jpg IMG_0892.jpg
IMG_0893.jpg
Last edited by Coug90; 04-28-2018 at 05:11 AM. Reason: To correct information.
Absolutely beautiful.
I hope mine turns out as well as yours.
I've slowed up a fair bit on mine, but those photos have inspired me to have a bit more of a crack with it.
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How did your brace for the turn fin to the non-trip turn out?
Unfortunately, I haven't done much building in the last month or so due to work commitments. I haven't fitted the turn fin hardware yet.
I should get a bit done this weekend. We'll see then.
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I've finally shaken the building doldrums loose, & have had a bit of a crack at some of those tedious things over the last few evenings. Yay!
First, I tackled the rudder bracket, servo & rod. I decided to recess the servo into the side of the tub.
Then the fin braces were made up, starting with plate tapped onto the transom.
The braces were made from 3mm threaded rod with some clevises on the ends. Over the rod is a piece of 3/16" aluminium tubing.
A couple of T brackets were made from some 1/16 aluminium angle & recessed flush into the fins with the T part running through the fins. The clevis is bolted through that.
At the transom the other clevis required a small block of aluminium in it & a bolt was fitted through the assembly & tapped into the plate on the inside of the transom.
Then it was the turn fin & bracket.
I had an Accu-Tech fin in the spares box but no bracket. I fashioned one up out of a couple of pieces of 3mm angle fitted inside each other to make a 6mm thick bracket.
I cut them on an angle so that the straight fin would be canted when it was all bolted up.
I'm inspired enough to really get into this boat again.
Here are some visuals.
Servo & linkage
009.jpg
The rudder bracket, servo & rod, and the fin braces.
002.jpg
Fin brace attached at the fin.
003.jpg
Turn fin & angled bracket.
006.jpg
Temporarily fitted.
007.jpg
Last edited by 785boats; 06-15-2019 at 03:27 PM.
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Where are you putting the batteries at?
Tetefroid.
If I ever get around to painting it & finishing it off, they will go in the nose canopy section. 10s fits nicely.
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Oh? Is that with a driver in the cockpit? Club rules for around here require a driver...
No. Two 4s packs, side by side, are lower than the bottom of the window. But I need a 2s pack on top of them which comes a third of the way up the window.
I was just going to run a darkened windscreen on mine. No rules here at our club for a visible driver.
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