Anyone have a good source that will do Nitride treating for stainless props? Cryogenic treating will not work so can't do that.
Thanks
Anyone have a good source that will do Nitride treating for stainless props? Cryogenic treating will not work so can't do that.
Thanks
Nitride hardening is a common treatment of performance automotive engine crankshafts. Perhaps look up a local engine builder or machine shop and see if they can help you out.
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
Gary, theres really not much point in hardening up a stainless steel prop to be used for electric power . this is more common when using berillium props which are used for high performance gas powered boats. stainless props are pretty tough.
Well the berillium would last 25% less than the stainless that I use. Right now I can usually get 10 runs before I throw a blade with stainless. I don't mind buying lots of props..... it's just getting them each to be exact every time and that's the part that really sucks.
Out of curiosity, how fast are you spinning these props that you're throwing blades so often? And what diameter?
Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)
45-46,000 rpm, 48mm in a Phil Thomas 45
Sounds like SAW rotations.... I think you need the whole prop shaft and prop to be balanced at those speeds as an assembly. Not many have that kind of rig...
I use Prather props right now and yes it is for SAW.
Have you heard of anybody using a rotational assembly balancer for RC Boats? I’m just not sure you can do it with a flex shaft, it requires too much diametric clearance in the application. If I was running those speeds, I would definitely use a solid shaft on roller bearings and balance as an assembly. The amount of blades you lose means your running in water with much floating debris or your prop is suffering from occipital lobing, which is a secondary harmonic vibration and it’s really destructive! I learned the hard way about this balance issue when I started pushing an 871 blower on a blown alcohol digger up towards 40,000rpms. BTW, love the Prather SS props!
Gary,
Glad to see you are back at it! I still can't believe how fast you have that boat going! I'm not sure if it's what you are looking for, but there is a process conducted on SS by Bodycote called Kolsterising. They ran samples for our hydraulic components years ago and it was relatively inexpensive. Might be worth a call.
http://www.bodycote.com/en/site-serv...sterising.aspx
They have those balances for airplane propellers that you can use with a shaft. It my understanding that they are more accurate than magnetic types, although I don’t use one, but I’m not trying to spin 45K either! This would probably work with a flex shaft, but the clearances needed to run the flex just makes balancing it a joke, IMO.
You guys got me thinking, a fairly dangerous thing! I think I would use the 3/16 hardened stub shaft, put a piece of flex on that just to make the bend. Then put a piece of straight shaft to the other end of the short flex. You’ll need a lathe to tool the hole into the straight shaft, so you can make a good brazed welded attachment. This would allow a bearing clearance for the majority of the drive line and only having it loose for the short piece of flex. What you guys think about that?
Thanks shooter....just gave Bodycote a call and they are going to get back to me!
Well now they want to know what type of stainless it is and I can't find any info on it. I will keep searching tonight.
Gary do you have any pics of the busted prop ? like to see where the blade lifted off.
No sorry..I always just throw them out. But I can tell you they break 1/2 way down on the blade ...sometimes closer to the hub. I n some instances it will bend real good and not break but probably because I got it just in time.
thats ok , i was thinking the prop might have been breaking at the hub. sounds more like the blades are very thin and no doubt do need some treatment. my gas boats run COCR props, very hard material used.
Cool...Steven from OSE just found out for me that the props are 17-4 stainless so i will do the Bodycote treatment. From Prather they say you can take them much farther so going to try it.
Thanks again Shooter...this put me on the right track and i have plenty of time to do it since the lake is a solid block of ice here. -9* tonight......this sucks !!! LOL The older I get the harder these winters are for me !!
if your prop is sharp enough you should be able to break the ice and have some boating time. lol.
LOL That's good stuff !!!
sorry Gary but i had to rub it in. must be a pain waiting for the ice to clear off the lakes over there so you can have a run.
Gary,
If you're interested in prepped props, I'm pretty sure I could do up some ABC's that will survive.
Brian "Snowman" Buaas
Team Castle Creations
NAMBA FE Chairman
Gary, I’ve used that process before (not from Bodycote) on crank journals for a blown alcohol motor. It provides some serious case hardening! It’s also been used on high lift roller cams. No doubt it’ll be a tough prop! You may want to be sure the balance and sharpness is on the blade before sending. This process isn’t as penetrating as nitriding. It’s thin. Let us know!
OH boy ....great news!!! It's -5* today! This makes me so happy.....NOT !!
Maybe I can put some ski's on her LOL
Gary
Why are you wasting your time with 30 year old technology props when Brian's props are the newest technology and are the fastest props on the planet.
Mark
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