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Thread: Who wants to build a semi-scale all-wood micro hydro?

  1. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    well the round nose made it to my sisters thanks I might see it by summers end lol so waiting for you to finish up yours so I can see what hardware is in the box and a video of it running lol

    I'm working on it....

    Looking forward to your build thread.....
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  2. #212
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    Default Next????

    A friend suggested this........
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    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  3. #213
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    Oh Yes! Now we're talking.




    This hull makes these plus many other boats.
    I'm in!!
    "A quick temper will make a fool of you soon enough."
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bruce Lee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  4. #214
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    Default Another Kit?

    After the underwhelming response on the full and complete kits I've done thus far , I’m thinking anything I do in the future should be a “Short Kit” with just the 1/16” ply bulkheads, instructions, drawings for the skins and assorted parts, and recommendations for the hardware. I may include the precision 1/16” SS tube for the 1/32” wire drive because it is rather hard to source.

    Here’s what I would have to do to make that happen:

    1. Buy a set of plans from Newton Marine.
    2. Take them to Kinkos and get them scanned into an electronic format.
    3. Import them into AutoCAD and trace them with polylines with complete dimensional precision.
    4. Allow for cutting kerf on all parts.
    5. Design a parts layout to minimize waste.
    6. Obtain plywood.
    7. Deliver plywood to laser guy.
    8. Pick up cut plywood from laser guy.
    9. Buy boxes.
    10. Package and ship the kits.

    There’s a whole lot of time, money, and work up front to make this happen and I’m already sitting on a ton of inventory. The only way I would want to do that is if I had commitments from enough people up front to make it worth my time and effort.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  5. #215
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    Default Some Thoughts on 1/20 Scale Racing

    In my first post on this thread, and subsequent others, I talked of why I am so enamored with these smaller hulls. A lot of folks chimed in with the “loss of places to run the smaller boats…” and other excuses to avoid building one .

    Hello!! You can run these little boats ALMOST ANYWHERE . Yes, I understand they don’t like wind and the waves it creates, but there’s something called: EARLY MORNING, and in some places: EARLY EVENING where the wind dies down and the water is like glass . And yes, fast moving rivers aren’t really good for these either, but there are hundreds of thousands of little ponds and lakes throughout the country where you can run these.

    Big lakes that host sanctioned events could run 1/20 scale before breakfast with clever names like “Hangover Hydrofest” or “Morning Delight” . The simplicity of these little hulls and ease of transport means little to no support equipment is needed to run a few heats. All you really need is a few batteries and a roll of tape; maybe a couple of Allen wrenches and a screwdriver if you’re really hardcore.

    Diegoboy really wants me to do a more modern hull, and I’m willing to do it; provided there’s enough interest to make it worth my effort. I’m not looking to make a profit on these; I just want to avoid taking a loss. I don’t mind donating my time in doing all the CAD work; it’s like playing video games for me, but plywood and laser cutting isn't cheap. It's far better to amortize the costs over several hulls to keep costs down.

    So come on boys and girls, get on the 1/20 scale train where "Fast, Cheap, and Out of Control" is more than a slogan, it's a motto!
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  6. #216
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    The smaller boats are so much fun and cheap to power and quick to charge and easy to haul and I can go on and on.
    "A quick temper will make a fool of you soon enough."
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bruce Lee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  7. #217
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    Default Starting to Look Like Something

    The cowl sides at the cockpit opening were pretty thin on the prototypes. I modified the production kits with thicker sides and more support on the bottom. This additional support gets sanded away at the end, but it prevents breakage during most of the shaping process. The underside of the cowl needs to be hollowed out slightly to accommodate the curvature of the deck/hatch.
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    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  8. #218
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    Default An Exhausting Dilemma

    So I've mounted the cowl to the deck hatch, and I'm faced with a new dilemma: What to do for the exhaust? The hatch has a narrow tape ledge all around it that should be easy to access for the convenience of taping down the hatch. On the full size boat (later named "Miss Detroit") the entire exhaust manifold was below the top of the deck and only the tailpipe stuck up above the deck. This tailpipe would be right in the middle of the tape ledge. If I had chosen to do an exposed engine hull to model, I could have used a 3-D printed motor and "fudged" the hatch and motor location to work.

    I've given this a whole bunch of thought and think I have an easy solution: Forgetaboutit. The cowl will be exactly as it is in the photos other than it will be painted yellow with the Thompson Electric Co. decal on the fin and the Chuck Thompson decal on the sides. I may make a decal for the grill opening in the front of the cowl, but that's it.

    Hey! It's 1/20 scale, I don't need no stinkin' exhaust......


    UPDATE: I was just thinking....... (Uh oh... :) I wouldn't have this exhaust problem with a modern turbine hydro. Come on, show some interest; these little boats are FUN!
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    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 05-16-2019 at 07:23 PM.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  9. #219

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    103-i.jpg this is the one I am going to build pipe might work

  10. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    103-i.jpg this is the one I am going to build pipe might work

    That one will work perfect. Some K&S aluminum tubing and black paint will do the trick.
    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 05-21-2019 at 11:49 PM. Reason: Fix Typo.....
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  11. #221
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    Default Things to Come

    As the epoxy is cooking off on my 1/20 Short Circuit build, and I'm waiting for the laser guy to cut motor mounts for MPR Prototype #2, I'm thinking of things to come. The order of completion of my projects is as follows:

    1. Finish the Short Circuit.
    2. Finish MPR Prototype #2.
    3. Finish the Atlas (Screwed-up some paint).
    4. Finish the Mini Outrigger.
    5. Begin Secret Project X4.

    #1 and #2 might be done concurrently.
    Last edited by Dr. Jet; 05-17-2019 at 08:18 PM.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  12. #222

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    and number 6 is make a video and build Manuel lol

  13. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    and number 6 is make a video and build Manuel lol
    All my kits come with an instruction manual (*.pdf file on a CD). If I can get the cameras, the weather, and my schedule to cooperate, I'll make some vids.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  14. #224
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    Default I Thought I'd Add Some Color.....

    ...... So I decided to paint the cowl. Looks like I need to contact my DLP guy and have a driver printed up.....

    The instrument panel will eventually have a brushed aluminum cover and the interior bottom will be painted flat black.
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    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  15. #225

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    That is looking great Dr Jet.

    Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone – except God.”
    Billy Graham

  16. #226
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    Thanks, Jim.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  17. #227
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    Default Taking My Time....

    So the cowl shown in the photo above had a couple of days to dry. I shot some clear on it and the pink deck portion immediately crinkled up BIG TIME! The yellow portion did OK, but it had a couple more days to dry.

    So I sanded all the pink back down, and I'm waiting a few more days to shoot the color back on it. Then, I'll wait at least a week (maybe more) before attempting to shoot the clear coat again.

    What a PITA.....

    In the meantime, I'm adding some color to the hull, but again, I'm waiting a LOOOONG time between coats.
    A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves

  18. #228
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    Default Some Color On The Hull

    Well, I've shot some color on the hull. Now, I have to let it dry for a week or so, then wet sand some scratches and imperfections out of the deck. After that, I'll shoot a final yellow coat on the entire hull, and let it dry for a week or more. Then, I'll put the U-99 stencil on the deck and shoot the masked-off deck with pink. When dry to the touch, I'll remove the stencil and let it dry for another week. Then I'll put the black outline decal on the U-99 and let it dry for a few days (photo of my 1/16 scale Short Circuit).

    Only THEN will I attempt to shoot clear on it, and in fact I may wait a while longer.

    It may be done by September....
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