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Thread: HPR C5009 Bulletproof Mystic

  1. #61
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    Awesome build! Are these hulls still available somewhere?

    Thanks,Eddie

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelMan View Post
    Awesome build! Such a beautiful boat, I'm envious!



    I recently experienced this exact issue and it had me fooled for a bit as well. I was setting up a 1/5 scale 4wd vehicle, and did not have one of the connectors engaged 100% so it was only making connection through the initial part of the connector. It was enough for me to set the parameters of the esc, but when I tried to test the throttle I popped the resistor inside the connector, burned it right off. Couldn't understand why from that point nothing would work. But I did not realize it right away what had happened. Took for me to unplug everything and when I plugged the packs back in, the connector I popped the resistor on cracked a high voltage spark upon connection. Then I realized what had happed, as that connector was not functioning as an anti-spark connector anymore, haha. So anyone using these connectors, something to pay attention to.
    Thanks. Interesting data about burning out the anti-spark resistor. I hadn't even though of that possibility as a side effect. Luckily, I have heard no snaps when connection any of my packs, so they all seem to have pulled through my screw-up, which is nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by EddieM41 View Post
    Awesome build! Are these hulls still available somewhere?

    Thanks,Eddie
    Thanks! HPR is still building hulls, with the exception of one or two, but the company was recently sold and they are no longer made by Hans Peter Rotshi. The original Hans Peter hulls were known for their build quality. I cannot personally speak for the new hulls as I've never seen one up close.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  3. #63
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    Water conditions were pretty good today. I was able to run two sets of packs through the boat today on 1716 props. I ran 1715's last weekend on the maiden. I made about 5 passes on each set of packs and everything looked and sounded great. Wish I had some GPS data, but based on the runs I made with my Genesis, the HPR looked north of 100mph.

    2019-08-10 09.45.04.jpg 2019-08-10 09.45.57.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  4. #64
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    OZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Thanks. Interesting data about burning out the anti-spark resistor. I hadn't even though of that possibility as a side effect. Luckily, I have heard no snaps when connection any of my packs, so they all seem to have pulled through my screw-up, which is nice.

    Thanks! HPR is still building hulls, with the exception of one or two, but the company was recently sold and they are no longer made by Hans Peter Rotshi. The original Hans Peter hulls were known for their build quality. I cannot personally speak for the new hulls as I've never seen one up close.
    Have you got a link on the HPR Hulls ?
    MYSTIC 138 119 MPH so far

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Almost there! Decided to change out the 4060 motors for 4050's.
    What prompted this change? Beautiful work as always Ryan. Wish I could have made LOTO.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfreek View Post
    Have you got a link on the HPR Hulls ?
    https://www.hpr-swiss.com/

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike W View Post
    What prompted this change? Beautiful work as always Ryan. Wish I could have made LOTO.
    Thank you sir. Bummed you won't be making the trip this year. The 4060s were too close to their safe voltage limit. Kent from CCFP convinced me 4050s were a better match.

  7. #67
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    Thanks fweasel
    Last edited by Speedfreek; 08-12-2019 at 12:17 AM.
    MYSTIC 138 119 MPH so far

  8. #68
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    Thanks to Jeremy Anderson at Big Thunder Marine for taking my HPR canopy down to the American Ethanol dock at the LOTO Shootout today. Got it signed by Mystic founder and throttleman John Cosker, the team owner Don Onken, and driver Tony Battiato. Guess I need to clear coat the underside to keep the grease off! Wish I could have taken it down there in person, but couldn't switch the 10-day vacation again this year.

    IMG950639.jpg IMG950638.jpg 2019-08-21 21.03.28.jpg AE_dock.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  9. #69
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    Forgot to update this thread after the shootout...

    Boat ran great during the shakedown runs in Chicago. I didn't change anything before I packed it up and headed for the Ozarks. My first pass Saturday morning was incredibly slow and I brought it back to the dock to check if both props were spinning. That's when one motor took off in reverse at full noise, and tried to drag the hull under water in a weird reverse death spin. We finally got it shut down and back to the pits. Turns out one of the ESC's lost its programming and was the likely culprit for the reverse mishap. I reprogrammed it, (eliminating reverse like I had done originally) and thought we were back in business. I made a donation to the Top Gun charity so that I could do a few test passes at the end of the day. This time the boat ran a little quicker, was more predictable, but still off the pace from previous test passes.

    After 5 passes, it started pulling to one side, so I shut it down and brought it back in. Popped the hatch and the magic smoke had been released. The morning's reverse dilemma put a wobble in the right flex cable. It was my mistake for not pulling the cables between runs to inspect them. I blame the heat and surrounding eye candy. During the second run later in the day, that cable knotted up the teflon liner, and over heated the motor. The stuffing tube got so hot and the resistance was so high that it released from the epoxy and spun in the hull. The high amp draw took out the right ESC. I'm guessing the drag from the slower running right prop over amped the left ESC and popped all the caps on that side. The shootout was over for this little HPR. Time to shine it up and just look pretty the rest of the weekend. It was awesome to get so much positive feedback from the crowd on the build and paint job, but in all honesty, you could paint a turd with the American Ethanol livery and it would still be sexy.

    AE_Loto.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  10. #70
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    Fast forward to this past weekend. I hadn't touched the boat since I brought it home and put it back in the rack. The new motors came in this week so it seemed like a good time to start in with the winter retrofit project and ripped out the stuffing tubes. That was fun. They were installed by the previous owner and sized for 1/4" flex cables. I run 3/16" cables and had sleeved the ends to fit a smaller Teflon liner. The lack of support in the middle of the cable is probably why my flex cable wobble issue turned so catastrophic at the shootout. Rather than continue to band aid fix the setup, I'm just going to do it the right way and replace it all.

    The old tubes are out as well as the supports. As soon as my 8mm collets arrive, I'll mock up the motors and bend a new set of smaller diameter brass stuffing tubes. The old ones were wrapped in carbon fiber which I liked the look of, but the new ones are going to be much narrower and I don't think I can pull that trick off. I might try using some rigid carbon tube and slice it like a loaf of bread on the underside so that it can match the contour of the brass. I've seen carpenters do that with 2x4's when framing curved walls. I also need to pull the steering hardware off the back to chase down a water leak I didn't have time to fix this summer.

    IMG_20191117_173238_01.jpg IMG_20191117_173238_02.jpg IMG_20191117_173238_03.jpg IMG_20191117_205729.jpg IMG_20191117_205656.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  11. #71
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    Soller has sleeves for that tubing!

    https://www.sollercomposites.com/CarbonSleeves.html

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike W View Post
    Soller has sleeves for that tubing!

    https://www.sollercomposites.com/CarbonSleeves.html
    Thanks, wasn't aware they made it so small. I might use a straight section of rigid tube and keep the new stuffing tubes straight. The flex cables will bend at the transition between the drives and hull.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  13. #73
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    Finally got around to modifying the bolt pattern on the existing mounts as well as finessing the rear mounts to fit the new LMT motors in place. Now that those are positioned, I can bend the new stuffing tubes. I ordered metric sized brass stuffing tube and a thick wall teflon liner to fit. Had to drill out the MBP drive mounts so that the tubes can be slid in from the back.

    IMG_20200301_140141.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  14. #74
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    Lost this thread also...

    My HPR is being finished by Manuel over in Germany right now... which Lehner's are they? I've got 2250/7 with a set of 7&8s packs... props right now are x447, x457 cut to 52mm and abc 2016... all prepped by andy brown.

    ABC will be my saw / special occasion prop....
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

  15. #75
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    These are 2250's. I'm only allowed to run 6S voltage in the class this boat runs in at the shootout, so everything is sized accordingly for that limit. Last year I started with ABC1715 props and it was running really well, until it wasn't , but didn't have the opportunity to start propping up.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  16. #76
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    Which wind?

    I actually bought these to run 6s but then was persuaded into running 8s... so have 3 sets of SLS, xtron 6s, MAgnum v2 7s and 8s Quantum 65C... i guess even on 6s boat will run half decent, for 100+ i have the 8s.

    when i make port i can stick some of the rebuild pics up from Manuel.
    Hpr 06 / 09 / 150 /185, Mhz Skater H45 hydro.
    Uk SAW record holder

  17. #77
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    Finished up the stuffing tube retro fit yesterday. I ultimately used 8mm brass tube with 0.5mm thick walls and a teflon liner with a 7mm outer diameter. I sleeved the brass with carbon tube. I used a larger diameter over the curved section and a small diameter of the last bot of straight brass. I brushed a layer of resin over the floor to help conceal the old stuffing tub support mounting points. Whoever had the hull before me sprayed the interior with flat black spray paint. When I tore out the old supports, it made for some pretty ugly spots. The gloss of the resin helped a little, but i try to install my inlays with more of a matte finish. I'm going to go over everything with a rag and some acetone to see of I can tone down the gloss a little. Just cosmetics, but I've got the time.


    IMG_20200327_154907.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  18. #78
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    Wrapped a new set of MBP 44x64mm water jackets today with carbon veneer. They are considerably longer than the jackets that LMT sells and have more internal water volume too. I modified my previous method with these two jackets. I've had problems in the past were heat from the motor would cause the adhesive on the underside of the veneer to separate from the carbon and they would start to peel at the seam. Today I removed about 1/4" of the adhesive on both sides of the seam using acetone. Now the dyed epoxy I use is actually bonding the veneer to the water jacket instead of just attaching to a thin layer of adhesive. I also switched to 5 minute epoxy instead of JB Weld. No reason not to have it cure faster.

    IMG_20200328_160517.jpg
    Last edited by fweasel; 04-02-2020 at 12:11 AM.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  19. #79
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    Busy day at the workbench working on my HPR. Got to use my new mill too. It made quick work of modifying a set of Castle 8mm bullet ends.
    IMG_20200401_164847.jpg

    IMG_20200401_165032.jpg

    That's where the fun ended. Spent the majority of my time dressing the motor wires and figuring out a satisfactory method of getting heat shrink to cover a 90* joint once they were soldered on.
    IMG_20200401_175529.jpg

    IMG_20200401_195405.jpg

    Now I have to modify my old ESC mount and cutout a new top mounting plate.
    IMG_20200401_202052.jpg

    Starting to look like a proper boat again!
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    Busy day at the workbench working on my HPR. Got to use my new mill too. It made quick work of modifying a set of Castle 8mm bullet ends.
    IMG_20200401_164847.jpg

    IMG_20200401_165032.jpg

    That's where the fun ended. Spent the majority of my time dressing the motor wires and figuring out a satisfactory method of getting heat shrink to cover a 90* joint once they were soldered on.
    IMG_20200401_175529.jpg

    IMG_20200401_195405.jpg

    Now I have to modify my old ESC mount and cutout a new top mounting plate.
    IMG_20200401_202052.jpg

    Starting to look like a proper boat again!
    I had to do the same thing in my mhz. I have a mgm with a lmt 2240 and had to bust out the 90?. I used a lil liquid tape and shrink tube. I like what u did tho, looks good.

  21. #81
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    Ryan, What mini-mill do you use and do you like it?
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  22. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX View Post
    Ryan, What mini-mill do you use and do you like it?
    Tyler, it's a Sherline 5400. Bought it used locally, stripped it down, cleaned everything, installed a few updated parts, and its good as new. Its awesome for what I need... a 3 axis dremel on steroids that doesn't take up much room in my cramped shop space. Won't be hogging out chunks of billet aluminum, or machining AR15 lowers, but I don't want to anyways.

    IMG_20200321_181634.jpg

    BTW, just got a delivery from McMaster Carr with 1/8" copper rod. Hope to build the cap banks this weekend. The MGM's have 4 35v 560uF caps on the board. Does an additional 5 35v 1000uF sound reasonable?
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  23. #83
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    What is the big crank handle in the lower part of the picture?

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    What is the big crank handle in the lower part of the picture?

    Larry
    Tiny shop... the milling workstation is very close to the lathe workstation. That's the feed crank on the lathe tailstock photo-bombing the mill picture
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  25. #85
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    What size lath have you got?

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  26. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRUCKPULL View Post
    What size lath have you got?

    Larry
    It's a Chinese (Harbor Freight) 7x10. Smallest of the options built on that platform, but that's why I got it.

    IMG_20200321_172327.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  27. #87
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    I have a Harbor Freight Lath 10/20 and a Mill 12/24 table.
    Also a metal Band Saw. and a drill press.
    Harbor Freight is the best bang for the $$

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  28. #88
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    Used the mill today and cut a new mounting plate for the MGM ESC's. Still needed some final fitting with a file, but it was a pretty fun project.

    IMG_20200404_124048.jpg

    IMG_20200404_154032.jpg

    I also cut some carbon filler strips to sit inside the heat sinks. The top was for cosmetics. The shorter one on the bottom was to create more surface area for the 3M dual lock adhesive.

    IMG_20200404_160346.jpg

    IMG_20200404_162201.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  29. #89
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    Ryan
    Where do you get your carbon plate from.
    What thickness's does it come in, and sizes.

    Larry
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  30. #90
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    This stuff was a 3mm 3K weave I got on ebay. OSE also sells carbon plate.

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