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Thread: Old Steve Muck Mono, FE set up???

  1. #1
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    Default Old Steve Muck Mono, FE set up???

    I have this old Steve Muck hull that i'd like to play with, needs a ton of work but if i can put a reasonable set-up in it to play with at the lake i think it would be a fun project. The hull is just over 44" long, it's pretty wide and on the heavy side. Bottom needs "blue printing" due to cracking and poor repairs. This hull would crack right where the stringers start in the bow of the hull. I think i can fix it, but i'd like to see what kinda set-up it would take to turn it into a FE boat before i do all the work. Would a Leopard 4092 1480KV on 6S be a feasible set-up, or do i need to go the 56 series motor with lower KV? 6S is all i'm gonna run, i know that's not much power for this much hull, maybe someday down the road i could move up to 8S. I'd put a 220a or so ESC in it, unless the Hobbywing 180a would be enough?? Here's a few pics of the hull, any ideas or suggestions will help me decide to build this thing or not!!

    IMG_3037.jpg IMG_3038.jpg IMG_3039.jpg IMG_3040.jpg

  2. #2
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    Cool

    What are your speed and runtime expectations? What kind of running do you expect? What kind of budget do you have?

    If it has to be 6S then that is too much Kv. The Leo 4092/5D or better a TP 4070/4Y will swing a bigger prop more appropriate for this big heavy hull. Running a 180 amp ESC will limit prop size and speed. Run the strut as low as practical to give the boat more lift, it isn’t really a deep vee.


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  3. #3
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    Default

    reminds me of the Young Blood mono hulls produced by Curtis Youngblood in the 80,s. shallow V and a good performer in its days.

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    Default

    Wouldn’t this perform better with a stinger conversion?

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    FWIW, I run a 4082 1450kv on 6s in a Skater 32 Cat. But I run smaller props faster spin. With that heavy hull, a 1250kv or so would give you more room for large props. If you can shoot some pics of your bottom cracks we may be able to offer some help there. I grind cracks out, like a metal repair, then use filled resin or resin and cloth to repair. Sounds like it could use some hull bolstering by the frames. Need good pics to tell.

    I like the boat! Definitely worth saving... The only boat not worth saving is a boat on the bottom!

  6. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies!!

    Fluid, i'd be happy to get the thing into the low 40's on 6S, with the option of 8S in the future. All of my lipo packs have 5.5mm bullet's, i really don't want to buy a new set of batts just for this boat. Budget, don't want to break the bank with extremely high end motors/ESC, but luckily i do have most of the transom hardware from it's nitro days to save a few bucks. And whatever run time i get out of 5000mah cells, i know it won't be as long as my FighterCat or Spartan, but a few minutes or so would be good. On my lake i don't have the time or the smooth water to run WOT thru a full charge, so i get a little longer run time than running on the pond.

    CraigP, yes the boat was already set-up with a surface stinger back when i raced it in nitro class. Here's a pic of the bottom, cracked on both sides right where the stringer end inside the hull. I tried fixing it multiple times, but the cracks always came back. Yes, i need to actually lengthen the stringers, then straighten out the bottom. It's gonna take some thought, may cut a "window" into the deck in order to get to the front of the stringers.

    IMG_3036.jpg

  7. #7
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    Hmmm, tough position on that crack... looks like it’s time for the cutting wheel! I love Demo Day!

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    prepare and glass on the inner side of this damaged area. try and keep the bottom smooth with no glass work , maybe just some resin and micro balloons .

  9. #9
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    The OP can run 5000 mAh packs in parallel to extend run time and ease the strain on the ESC. The extra weight should mean little in a boat this big and heavy.



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  10. #10
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    I was cruising the OSE site, and was looking at the Leopard 5692 1090KV motor. On 6S that puts it just under the 25,000 rpm range, isn't that about perfect for a just a sport runner?? I was also looking at the Swordfish 220A ESC. Fluid, you mean running 4 3S packs together rather than just 2??

  11. #11
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    That motor would work, not sure if it would be better than a long 40 mm motor though. Others have tried the large format motors on 6S with spotty success.

    I meant using two parallel sets, each one of two 3S packs in series - 6S2P. This doubles the capacity, run time and effective C rating.


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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    That motor would work, not sure if it would be better than a long 40 mm motor though. Others have tried the large format motors on 6S with spotty success.

    I meant using two parallel sets, each one of two 3S packs in series - 6S2P. This doubles the capacity, run time and effective C rating.


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    Ok, i have no idea how to wire/plug for 6S2P. I've only ever run twin 2S packs in series in my other boats.

  13. #13
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    I was over at steves shop today. glad to see some of his boats still running. wire 2 sets of 3s packs in series, then wire those in parallel.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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