Looking for a good 300 amp esc other than swordfish.. Any suggestions?
Looking for a good 300 amp esc other than swordfish.. Any suggestions?
Www.atos-modellsport.com
14s 300 amp speed controller
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Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
Tyler, have you ever messed with that Atos? Looks meaty enough.
Noisy person
I am having luck with the Flier Controllers. They run cool too.
Nope I have not used the Atos. They are pretty big and will not fit in boats I would be interested in running them in.
If you go by the FET count and the FET's used the rating is likely pretty optimistic.
Next on my list of ESC's to try is the YEP180HV from HK.
There is also the newer Swordfish series from HiFei. http://www.hifei.com/copy-of-swordfish-esc
Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
I may give the Flier another shot. The 250 was solid. Come spring I'll need something more violent for some saw runs.
Noisy person
Steven,
FET's are first selected based on voltage. So a 6S controller will use a switch with an appropriate voltage rating above the maximum battery voltage. For Example a 6S controller my use 50V or 63V FET's. A 15S controller likely uses 90V switches. Some controllers have much more head room on voltage than others.
Next FET's have a current rating based on a junction temperature which translates into how well you can cool them. A high performance FET rated at 50V may have a 250A rating at 25C. However that current rating drops to 100A @100C. So controllers often have FET's in parallel to increase the overall current rating assuming the junction temperature will not be at the ideal 25C.
The minimum number of switches is typically 6 for a brushless AC motor. Each pair of switches makes a half bridge (one high and on low side switch) and there are three half bridges inside most controllers which pair up with the three phases of the motor.
Some controller companies rate their controllers assuming ideal current conditions. Hence you will see car ESC's rated at 1000A because they can do they for a split second but no more.
When I look at a boat controller I look at how many switches, what their rating is and how much DC bulk capacitance is on board. This gives me an idea of the true rating.
So when a controller is single sided and only has 18 switches and is rated at 300A's it makes me skeptical when I have controllers with double the number of switches rated at 160A that I know can supply that current continuously.
There is a lot of subjectivity here, but after testing most of the higher dollar controllers I have a good feel for what is real data and what is marketing smoke smoke and mirrors.
Tyler
Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
Thanks for sharing Tyler!
Thanks Tyler, that really helps I was looking at buying one to replace my SF300 which went up in smoke. I’ll wait to see what spec the new Atos is before buying and I’ll ask a few questions before buying.
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I say for now, your best bet would be to try the Fliers. I haven't heard anything online of them failing. I have a friend that just bought two of them and loves them. Either most of them or all of them have the anti spark feature for those bigger voltage setups. Take a look at them and for the price it's not bad unlike those high ticket escs.. .again this is just my opinion and of what I've heard. The guys who design the Fliers used to be the same guys as the Fighter Cat and Alien ESCs and I have those and I haven't had any problems with any of them. Then, there's the new Hifei Swordfish X. . .but too early to tell.
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