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Thread: Polishing flexshaft?

  1. #1
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    Default Polishing flexshaft?

    I vaguely remember seeing somewhere (I think on this site) a tutorial on polishing flexshafts. What are the benefits of doing this? Is it worth it?

  2. #2
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    Less friction & more rpm.

  3. #3
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    Be careful how far you take it... you're making the outside strands thinner, so I stop polishing after taking off about 1/4 to 1/3 of the diameter of the outside strands. It makes a difference!

  4. #4
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    It kind of polishes its self in the brass tube after a while. Mine was like a mirror after many runs and real smooth

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the responses guys. Next question, how do I go about polishing them. I can't find the tutorial I mentioned earlier, the only thing I remember was to put them in a drill. What do I secure the other end to? Will it make a difference if using liners?

  6. #6
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    Prop shaft in drill, the other hand with a piece of 120 grit sand paper with motor oil on it. Your hand with the sandpaper secures the other end... it's a slow process.

  7. #7
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    Then I work up in grit to polishing paper. I avoid the end that goes in the coupler. Clean, clean and clean it again before using it.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughb View Post
    I vaguely remember seeing somewhere (I think on this site) a tutorial on polishing flexshafts. What are the benefits of doing this? Is it worth it?
    For me polishing a flexshaft is not that important but I make sure mine is always cleaned and greased up after a run. I have quite a few boats and some I haven't ran in years and only to find a rusted shaft because I didn't grease them up after a day's running. . .a lesson learned. So now at the end of the day I never put a boat away without cleaning the flex and heavily greasing it up since I don't know if I'll use it within a few days, months or a few years. But I'm only sport running and don't need the higher demands and needs of racers. But then again it doesn't hurt and as Craig mentioned, also polishing it with care. So is it worth it? For me no. . . having a clean and well greased shaft is of greater importance for me.

  9. #9
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    As was stated after time the shaft will wear and polish itself so to speak. On new shafts I chuck them in a hand drill and wetsand with 220-320-400 and finish with 600 grit. Use an airhose then WD40, and on to your regular lube. This accelerates and limits the drag that normal wear from running does.Your just polishing the high spots off, no need to reduce the shaft diameter significantly. Not rocket science just attention to details.
    Mic

    Mic Halbrehder
    IMPBA 8656
    NAMBA 1414

  10. #10
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    I start with 400 grit and wd40 and work my way to 1000 grit. Then several sessions of mothers metal polish applied on a microfiber cloth.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  11. #11
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    try Valve Grinding Paiste as the cutting lube and use an old or spare brass shaft log with a slight bend in it and work up and down with the drill with plenty of paiste on the shaft. this job takes only approx 5 minutes and the shaft is very smooth . clean the shaft in some Petrol /Gas when finished.

  12. #12
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    Is the polishing done before you cut and solder the flex shaft or does it matter?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Lee View Post
    Is the polishing done before you cut and solder the flex shaft or does it matter?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Some don't solder their shafts, so does it matter. . .probably not.

  14. #14
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    you don,t polish the last 20mm of the shaft that goes into motor collet.

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