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Thread: Motor timing "D" wind

  1. #1

    Default Motor timing "D" wind

    As regards setting up an ESC initially, I have received conflicting info regarding "D" wind motor timing. One camp states that timing on a D wind motor is irrelevant (meaning 0 degrees) and another camp states to programme the ESC timing to the mid point of the timing scale on the programming box. Any thoughts please?
    Last edited by Old School; 10-05-2017 at 02:03 AM. Reason: Additional info

  2. #2

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    with D wind motors it has been mentioned to set the timing at 0 degrees, Y wind motors can go up higher around the 15 plus degrees.

  3. #3

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    Many thanks. I was thinking towards 0 degrees.

  4. #4

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    Try something between 0 and 5 Deg as a starting point.
    Tyler Garrard
    NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
    T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR

  5. #5

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    From Steve Neu: “D”wind motors should always use low advance as there is no improvement with higher advance settings.


    .
    ERROR 604 - Caller's Buffer Is Too Small
    1. Ensure that your port is not configured to a low speed
    2. If you are still having problems, contact your counselor

  6. #6
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    Default

    I always use 3.75 degrees for D wind on my Seaking or Turnigy esc.

  7. #7

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    Many thanks gentlemen

  8. #8

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    Is there any noticeable difference between a D wind motor that has been set from 0 degrees to 3.75 degrees ?

  9. #9

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    I find this to be an interesting topic… Just over the weekend I ran 2 different NEU motors; 1515 1Y (15 degrees timing) and a 1518 1.5D (1-3 degrees timing) using the same Castle Creations controller.

    While I need to take a look at the data logs; just from my ear (and performance) it sure seems the 1515 was turning many more RPM’s than the 1518. What doesn’t make sense to me is the 1518 is rated at a slightly higher Kv rating with a slightly longer can (more torque). I don’t understand why I am not seeing better performance from the 1518 compared to the 1515.

    Any thoughts from the “motor guys”?

    1515 1Y = 2200kv, 2.7” long, 1250 watts continuous, and 2500 watts surge
    1581 1.5D = 2340kv, 3.3” long, 1500 watts continuous, and 3000 watts surge

    Thanks,
    Ball

  10. #10

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    Maybe less R with the 1y.

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  11. #11

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    did you change props to suit each motor ? or was the same prop used for both ?

  12. #12

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    Guessing motor rpm by ear is hardly definitive, especially when hard data is available. The motors in question are not the same as one is larger than the other. Timing for the Y motor may be better optimized for it, hard to tell without knowing the loads involved.

    I have seen no measurable difference between 0 and 3 degree advance with D winds.


    .
    ERROR 604 - Caller's Buffer Is Too Small
    1. Ensure that your port is not configured to a low speed
    2. If you are still having problems, contact your counselor

  13. #13

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    I'm with Fluid, you need hard facts to analyze motor comparisons. Was the prop the same, battery the same and same state of charge? This would be hard to sort out without a data logger. The battery could be drooping more with one motor over another. But motors running at different timing can give off difference resonant frequency signatures. So I would toss the "by ear" thoughts out. Also, using a gps for speed monitoring or better, a radar gun would be helpful too...

  14. #14

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    Does one wind have an advantage over the other, please? Is one wind more suited to sport or outright performance? I prefer the simplicity of the D wind in that timing does not have to be tuned.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    Does one wind have an advantage over the other, please? Is one wind more suited to sport or outright performance? I prefer the simplicity of the D wind in that timing does not have to be tuned.
    That last sentence is not quite right.
    A lot of ESC's come with the timing factory set at 15 degrees. It will need to be changed if you run a 'D' wind motor.
    If your ESC has an 'Auto Timing' setting, like a Swordfish for example, I suggest using that. I find they tend to run cooler & at better efficiency on the batteries.

  16. #16

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    Guys - This isn't just anyone's ear! It's Mike Ball's!!!!

    Mike - Although I can't explain it, I've experienced a similar situation. I tried a longer can, slightly higher KV, and ended up with less RPM with the same set-up (I can share the castle data). Again, I have no definite attributable cause, but I do know that it was pulling more current and ended up increasing heat, hence, more resistance.

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