27" carbon cat black edition build

[kfxguy]

I need some advice fellas. I'm at a road block. I'll admit, I didn't plan this part out too well because had I known, I would have machined the offset bracket with an open bottom. I could still do that but I'd had to make another bracket. So I have three choices and I'll list from easiest to hardest and I'll post pics illustrating what I mean.

1) flip the linkage boot inside the hull. Easiest and possibly the cleanest solution

Like this.




Or I could machine a spacer and powder coat it black. It would space the whole strut out and extend the length of the boat. I never really got a solid answer on what moving the prop and/or rudder father from the transom does. Any insight on this is appreciated. I always thought the closer the prop is the harder to bring the bow up.


Here's what I'm faced with. Just too close and the boot hits the bracket. That will wear a hole in it.






And here's how it would be if I spaced it off the transom. Notice this boat which is a larger version of the hull I'm building, has a spacer built on to the transom

[kfxguy]

And the 3rd option is to machine the bracket where one side is open like this


Something like this except I'd make the bottom open

[kfxguy]

Let me add one more option I just thought about. Ok, I could mill out the bottom and then add a piece of 3mm carbon plate back on the bottom


Cut this part out
Then recess a 3mm carbon strip to strengthen the bottom back.

[CraigP]

Why not put the boot on the inside?

[kfxguy]

Why not put the boot on the inside?

That was pic and option one. Which would be easiest but sometimes I like to make things more difficult to be different lol

[Erroneous]

Could you just stick the boot through the hull a little further? Just past a ridge splitting inside/outside. If it still seals well that is.IMG_1349.jpg Did it on BJ#2 because the hole was a little loose. Works great........ I mean... I know a BJ doesnt hold a candle to this build but....

[fweasel]

Maybe you're over thinking this. Inverting the boot like you did on my boat looks cool and would work out just fine. The only downside is, you can't easily pull the boot out to use the hole as a drain if the boat spend a little too much upside down, something I wish I could do on mine, as water is tricky to get out of this small hull. If the edges are smoothed out on the aluminum bracket, I don't see wear as an issue for the limited amount of travel that boot will see if you were to install it in the traditional manner. I would ditch all ideas that involve cutting material away from your bracket. If/when this boat crashes, it will be doing so at very high speeds and we already know where the force is being concentrated on mine...

This reminds me of one additional improvement. Powder coat your steering push rod. Assuming you're making yours from the same material used in my boat, it's starting to oxidize. PC that sucker black or better yet, if you do the entire hardware group in black, make the pushrod your patented green color as the single accent rather than a green antenna mast.

[kfxguy]

Maybe you're over thinking this. Inverting the boot like you did on my boat looks cool and would work out just fine. The only downside is, you can't easily pull the boot out to use the hole as a drain if the boat spend a little too much upside down, something I wish I could do on mine, as water is tricky to get out of this small hull. If the edges are smoothed out on the aluminum bracket, I don't see wear as an issue for the limited amount of travel that boot will see if you were to install it in the traditional manner. I would ditch all ideas that involve cutting material away from your bracket. If/when this boat crashes, it will be doing so at very high speeds and we already know where the force is being concentrated on mine...

This reminds me of one additional improvement. Powder coat your steering push rod. Assuming you're making yours from the same material used in my boat, it's starting to oxidize. PC that sucker black or better yet, if you do the entire hardware group in black, make the pushrod your patented green color as the single accent rather than a green antenna mast.

Damn you have good ideas! You know, for a while I was putting drain plugs in my boats but I stopped for some reason. I have a stainless rod for this one but I think your right, I'll powder coat it. Are you ok with drilling a hole in the transom? If so I'll send you a nifty drain plug that doesn't fall out when you pop it out. I have about a dozen of them. If you still want that rudder I can send it to you with it. Also, during the winter, pull the steering rod out and send it to me and I'll powder coat it for you. Of course no charge for any of it


Yea I think your right. I'm over thinking it. I think what I'm gonna do is invert the boot and make a billet push in ring.

[kfxguy]

Damnit. I realized this esc I bought for this thing is 4s to 6s. That's not gonna work for me. I need it to at least go down to 3s. Anyone know if it will actually work on 3s? I really do t know what my other options are. If I could find a mamba xl2 I could machine a custom case for it. I thought about a mamba monster2 or a mamba x and water cool those but I really would like xl2....I could make a killer looking case for it. I could machine it out of a solid piece of billet and incorporate a carbon top plate. Any other ideas? My maximum height can only be 26-27mm

[kfxguy]

Ok well disregard the above post. It works on 2s and 3s so I'll forge ahead. Typo on the ose store and on hifei website. When I plugged it into the programming software it says 220a 2s-6s

[fweasel]

Glad to hear it. I'll probably swap to that same ESC as well if it works out well for you.

[kfxguy]

Ok fellas. Where should I put the water outlet? I was thinking in that bump to the right. I'll pc some brass tubing black. Or should I put it in the intention to the left? I could flush mount it in the bump.....

[fweasel]

Bump on the right, pc it black.

[Jesse J]

When I had my hotr cat almost 10 years ago, I put two exhaust tubes out the intentions... you could run your output through one of those?!?!

[kfxguy]

There's no turning back now...........

[kfxguy]

For my future reference, the mbp collet weights 15.2g I'll try and lighten it from there. More pics coming soon.

Collet weighs 14g now lol haven't changed the screws yet tho

[kfxguy]

This is what I meant by no turning back

[kfxguy]

While the above items were baking I made the outlet. I had to choose the indention because the bump didn't have the room for the tube to fit. To finish it off I made a tiny ass little trim collar to fit. That stuff is hard to make but if learned some tricks to make life easier.




And I pc it black.

[Luck as a Constant]

You made the rite choice anodizing the hardware man 👍🏻
IDE like to have the same done for the hardware on my hydro build. Is that something you could do for me?!

[kfxguy]

You made the rite choice anodizing the hardware man ����
IDE like to have the same done for the hardware on my hydro build. Is that something you could do for me?!

Well I didnt anodize it, I powder coated it. I can do it for you no problem. If anyone else needs hardware done just hit me up. I can do whatever color you want. I don't charge much at all especially if the parts are bare metal. If the stuff is coated then it need to be stripped, rather not deal with that. I'm not sure it will stick to anodized aluminum but I'm sure it will....some of those parts I did last night were anodized clear and I didn't strip them. (Just confirmed you can pc over anodized aluminum)

[Luck as a Constant]

Well I didnt anodize it, I powder coated it. I can do it for you no problem. If anyone else needs hardware done just hit me up. I can do whatever color you want. I don't charge much at all especially if the parts are bare metal. If the stuff is coated then it need to be stripped, rather not deal with that. I'm not sure it will stick to anodized aluminum but I'm sure it will....some of those parts I did last night were anodized clear and I didn't strip them. (Just confirmed you can pc over anodized aluminum)

Ok thanks dood. Appreciate it. I will be using speedmaster hardware which is bare aluminum and making my own turn fin from bare aluminum. I suppose I could have it shipped directly to you from OSE.

Build is looking great!

[kfxguy]

Ok thanks dood. Appreciate it. I will be using speedmaster hardware which is bare aluminum and making my own turn fin from bare aluminum. I suppose I could have it shipped directly to you from OSE.

Build is looking great!

Yea people have stuff shipped directly to me all the time from ose. Just let me know

[fweasel]

Can't wait to see the green bits. The water outlet turned out awesome. Goes without saying, but make sure that fitting is water tight since the ass end is under water before it gets on plane.

[kfxguy]

Can't wait to see the green bits. The water outlet turned out awesome. Goes without saying, but make sure that fitting is water tight since the ass end is under water before it gets on plane.

It's epoxied in from the top side then job weldedwith support on the bottom side. I hope it's water tight! Lol

I'm doing something different for the antenna holder too.

[fweasel]

water tight... now its a structural member!

[kfxguy]

Have a dilemma I've been thinking about. How you secure the esc. Here's the problem:

It's a tight fit so just Velcro will prove to be challenging especially if I need to get it out. Probably have to remove the motor. Not something I want to do. Next idea is to epoxy some short studs that two standoffs screw on to and then screw a carbon strap over the top of it. But because the studs stick up I'll have to remove the motor. Last option, drill two small holes holes in the tunnel for the standoffs. Opinions?

[kfxguy]

Got the heavy duty steering linkage done. 1/8" stainless rod. I use 4-40 billet rod links with brass bearing inserts for zero slack. I had to turn the rod down .022 smaller so I could thread it to 4-40 thread. If you guys knew how much work goes into to building a boat like this (most of my customer boats get the same attention too) you would think I'm nuts. Most people would just get a 4-40 rod with threaded ends and cut to length, bend and then get one of those sliding eyelets. Not me. Those develop slack and the 4-40 rod isn't stiff enough for the speeds this thing will be traveling. Or maybe I just like to complicate things. Who knows, but hey....it sure does look nice and beefy!


I forgot, the servo arm and the rod will be powder coated black. I think I'll leave the rod ends aluminum

[fweasel]

The black hardware is so damn sexy in black. Love it.

[shua]

How you manage to step up your builds each and every time is amazing. Well done on this Black Edition build!!

[Mxkid261]

Looks awesome. I got some of that 3mm steering rod for my rivercat was fun to bend lol. I need to put my servo in the sponson like you do.