I guess I need some new parts for my Genesis...

[rotarypower101]

I guess I need some new parts for my Genesis...

My strut bushings seems to have worn out.
And the stuffing tube teflon doesn't look as happy as it could be!
The prop shaft with 4mm square drive is done also.


What should I get and from which retailer to replace them?

Should I change to 3/16” drive since it seems like essentially all parts are going to be replaced? 4mm has treated me pretty well, but maybe its cheaper, better and easier to get?

Is there a kit with all the necessary parts to change over from 4mm to 3/16" on a Genesis?


Do they make a bearing strut for 4mm driveline compatible with the Genesis?

Is there a stuffing tube that is easier to grease? Or is there a way to make a standard one easy to service with lubrication? As well as is there a better interface for stopping water propagation through the drive shaft?


Anyone that has replaced these parts have some good advice for better longevity and durability ?

Can I buy just a offset bracket for the rudder while I am in there playing around?

Does anyone have strong opinion on a offset rudder "Z" adaptor, or having a secondary mounting point as pictured?

[CraigP]

Now that's a bunch of good questions! There are many posts from very informed people on all of those topics. Just put each one into the search bar and check it out!

[MadProps]

I just went thru all this upgrade and all the same issues as you with a new Genesis

"do the upgrade on the shaft" ....although 4mm ran well the second you try to run an upgraded motor you will twist it and wish you had, since you must spend money on your drive line upgrade now!

dont be bashful inject grease in the stuffing tube, then grease the shaft and insert .....as you get the shaft about to enter the hull put your finger over the end of the stuffing tube press hard and slowly finish inserting the shaft...this will hydraulically push the grease you injected backwards into the tube and not exiting into the hull requiring cleaning.... this creates a better water seal AND when you upgrade the flex to 3/16 you eliminate 60% of the disassembly work ...now you just loosen the collet
the water will almost stop water intrusion when you start replacing the strut bushings as they wear out....check your prop...an unbalanced prop will prematurely wear out the bushings

you will need ....all is available here @ OSE
the 3/16 1 piece shaft kit ......and you toss the liner
3/16 collet for the larger flex
3/16 strut....get replacement bushings

the offset rudder on the genesis leaves something to be desired it drags the bottom support bracket which isnt even necessary ... it drags in the water at any speed until your up and running on the pad (about 3/4 throttle) and it also drags in turns kicks up spray

I modified an offset bracket (see photo below) to remove the bottom support bracket and it has cut down the drag resistance 75%.......its reported to steer better with the offset bracket but if your boats runs fine with an Inline rudder run it that way.

other users results may vary
offsett.jpg
offsett2.jpg

edit:
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-80975
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...?prod=ose-187L
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...prod=ose-81518
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...od=oct-oc6ltsb

[rotarypower101]

Was hoping to start a discussion based on the factors presented that I am thinking about and considering, hopefully from those that have done this specifically and could offer their personal advice.

I understand the topics have been cover in some form or another, but this is a discussion board, was hoping to start a new discussion on the matter.

Willing to manufacture the parts if need be, assuming I can find some ideas that make sense.
was thinking I could pass the stuffing tube through a piece of round stock and place a small button grease zirk to make sealing and lubricating easier.

I also read about someone placing a vacuum cap over the tube to create an abradable sealing surface, but I have doubts as to how well that would work ?

I would really like to find a method that has much longer service life, lower the maintenance and keep the inside clean of slung grease if at all possible?

Not going to lie, would like to keep the cost down as its just a fun toy not a trophy

And I love building things, particularly intricate and things not on the market that solve a fundamental issue.

Was thinking about making a rotating sealing surface for the stuffing tube/ motor flex shaft also, perhaps a set screw collet, light spring, and two flanged flat surfaces that mate ? This is how it is done with a carbon seal on some PWC, and thought the concept might be adaptable here ?

[rotarypower101]

check your prop...an unbalanced prop will prematurely wear out the bushings

I modified an offset bracket (see photo below) to remove the bottom support bracket and it has cut down the drag resistance 75%.......its reported to steer better with the offset bracket but if your boats runs fine with an Inline rudder run it that way.

I did that first thing !

that was pretty fun to get it working so well, I was hoping it would have allowed the bushings to last longer...but we have put MANY batteries though it !


I see what you are talking about with the bottom section missing, I can see how that would drag substantially off plane.

You have not had any issues with the strength of the part in that configuration?


Did you opt for a ball bearing strut ? Not sure if this is the correct way to go unless they are good sized "decent quality" SS bearings ?

[MadProps]

I just got the bushing strut and extra bushings ...will see about their longevity before I try anything else...I built a sport boat not a record SAW runner

the offset bracket is a substantial piece and it doesnt know its now missing a support bracket

[rotarypower101]

Thats all I want is a fun reliable boat, I commonly hand it to people and just let them have fun with it, so there is no measuring contests that I am concerned with.

Thinking about it, I wonder if they make a needle bearing assembly that would fit these 4mm and or 3/16” shafts ?

That would allow the strut shaft housing to be relatively the same size as a bushing counterpart.



Fortunately I have lots of the tooling that would be required to make parts like this, I am half tempted to just make the parts I am thinking about.

I know these need to be inexpensive and simple for this small market, but it seems like there could easily be some basic changes that make it work better.

[rotarypower101]

I have also noticed the 3/16" shafts that I have seen have integrated prop shaft rather than a separate flex shaft/square drive socket. which has both good/bad points to consider?

Is it an issue if the motor side collet lets go people loose a flex shaft and prop because there is no restraint to the system to stop parts simply falling out? As with the 4mm system there is a flanged square drive coupler that retains the prop shaft and so it retains the flex shaft as a result.

I am sure that is a silly point to consider, but it has always struck me as a point of failure against moving to the 3/16" drive system.