Newcomer with a question

[Bp9145]

just a side note. .It seems you have aligned the turn fin with the side edge of the transom. I usually make sure I install my turn fins 90° from the bottom of the hull. . .making a L shape with the turn fin blade and the bottom line of the hull. It will make a big difference in performance.

[Old School]

Thankyou. Actually, it does not show in the photographs but there is a bend in the turnfins so that they do sit at 90 degrees to the hull.

[rol243]

well they are some big fins hanging off the transom there. drag .

[Old School]

well they are some big fins hanging off the transom there. drag .

Thankyou for your comment. In fact the turnfins are actually smaller in dimensional area than the commonly fitted CNC aluminium fins fitted to most RTR hulls. Also, unlike most RTR boats, the fins do not extend below the keel, so should the boat be up on plane will have negligible impact on drag and certainly far less than most manufacturer supplied RTR hulls.

[rol243]

majority of time when the mono is up on the plane the turn fins are not in the water , only in the turns is when they make full contact with the water and if there too long there is more surface area in the water and speed will be lost quickly. normal practise is to have the larger turn fin on the starboard side and a shorter fin if any on the port side. i have a 53 inch Deltaforce mono that doesn,t even need turn fins in race set up. so a small hull like yours only needs very small fins., see how she runs in the water as you can always cut the fins shorter if needed.

[Old School]

Many thanks. Hopefully its first shakedown run will not hold too many surprises.

[Bp9145]

Many thanks. Hopefully its first shakedown run will not hold too many surprises.

make sure you post a video to share with us. . .much luck to you, have fun and enjoy that nice looking boat of yours.

[Old School]

Many thanks.

[Old School]

I revisited this project after a long hiatus. I really could not see the original degraded Lexan cab withstanding a high speed impact so after a lot of thought went with a simple runabout type superstructure. A combination of carbon fibre sheet and strip achieved the simple shape I wanted. The original Lexan cab would have been a nightmare to tape up before a run.

I will detail the infill deck sheet with a recessed cockpit complete with a couple of driver figures. The hull is reinforced internally with a carbon fibre inlay plus two-part expanding foam in the bow to help reinforce the ABS skin. West System G-flex 650 was used throughout and while expensive has achieved an incredibly torsionally strong body.

First image shows the original Lexan cab that I painted several months ago. I intend an SSS 3682 2200kv on 4s, running a Turnigy Marine 120A ESC. Unsure of prop size but I do have a preference for three-bladed props. The stinger has been converted to a Speedmaster rotating bushing insert (very simple operation with just an electric drill).

[Old School]

A temporary deck panel to sort out final shape and clearances. I will recess the cockpit area as low as possible but will still need to reduce the height of both driver figures. The rear deck will have a raised engine access panel.

[srislash]

Hey that is looking pretty slick, nice work

[Old School]

Thankyou, it was looking a little dated with that older style raised Lexan canopy. I actually spent several hours repairing the canopy as it had deteriorated badly and then too much time painting it. After a few months sitting idle (due other builds) I decided the raised canopy would not stand the impact from the speed this revised hull will be capable of.

I am just awaiting some 1 mm carbon fibre sheet to curve to make the deck infill, plus awaiting the Leopard 3674 (2200kv 4s) that will power it as I may need to modify the deck to accommodate the motor clearance. I went with a less powerful motor as I wanted to use a Turnigy 120 amp ESC onhand. I would have preferred a TP motor however, due power requirements, I thought that I may have had to use a Turnigy 180 amp ESC that I have earmarked for another project.

[Old School]

The carbon fibre deck now finished, awaiting an additional driver figure plus motor to complete the boat. It will be a simple paint scheme. It will be good to finally get this project finished.

[hughb]

Yep that looks heaps better. Really well done!

[Old School]

Many thanks. Hope you are enjoying "sunny" Queensland.

[Old School]

By sheer coincidence almost three years to the day and this toy boat is finally completed. Leopard 3674 2075kv running 4s with 150 amp Turnigy Marine ESC. Prop is merely what I had. The worst part of this build was converting a very old, but sound, ABS toy hull with a submerged drive, fitting a carbon fibre inlay, building a new superstructure and adjusting the rudder and stinger to cope with an approximate 60 degree sloping transom.

[srislash]

Congratulations, mission complete

[Old School]

Many thanks

[1coopgt]

Great looking boat

[Fluid]

Yes, that turned out great! Now we need to see video.

I hope you get the ESC issue sorted, by this time you may have to bite the bullet and order a new, non-Turnigy model like Steven’s Raider 150.



.

[Old School]

Many thanks. Yes, I am thinking that a Raider may be on the cards, although I just tested it now and it actually worked without having to jog its memory (it has been almost 24 hours since last tested). Simple enough to set the throttle range but a little annoying. I have purchased a 1/10 scale representation of the upper half of a supercharged V8 motor so that will be added to the hatch to finish this boat off (finally).