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Thread: Fightercat/Cheetah Insanity Build

  1. #1

    Default Fightercat/Cheetah Insanity Build

    Purchased this untouched hull, upon receipt I noticed it has a fightercat tag in it. plans include a TP 4060 2040kv, seaking 180a v2 & speedmaster hardware. Hoping for 70mph on 5s power.
    Last night it got 1oz of epoxy in each tip, and an attempt of 1oz in the nose but it mostly ran down into the tips. I laid some fiberglass in the transom also.

    My first question... With the hull having the Kevlar laid out in it, should I tape up the seams? I would have done it without hesitation if the Kevlar had not been in place.

    IMG_3199.jpgIMG_3330.jpgIMG_3329.jpgIMG_3323.jpg

  2. #2
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    Does the Kevlar cover the seams? If yes then your answer is no. If it does not cover the seams then yes I'd reinforce it. I hope you can reach your speed goal, 5s will be a little difficult with that hull because it's pretty draggy. Now if your 5s in parallel with two 5s packs then it's doable, just make sure you have enough esc for it. I don't think a dealing 180 is quite enough in my opinion. I did build one of these for a guy and we got over 70 with it on 6s using a 1500kv new 1521. You might be able to get there (I hope you can) but be aware it may take a bit of time dialing it in.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph

  3. #3

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    The Kevlar does cover the seams. I will be running 5s in parallel but if I don't get 70 out of it I won't be disappointed, it was just a max expectation for the setup. I've also got another one that I will be building over the winter or maybe next spring. I've got a TP 1570kv for that one, my plan is to run 5s for cruising and throw 6s in it for speed once in a while. I've done full blown 2-stroke builds but never an FE, these cheetah hulls are laid up light. 2-3/4 pounds before I started.

  4. #4

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    Great looking build Scott, I love those V2 180 esc, such a good design with the layout and cooling block.
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamelesstgr View Post
    Great looking build Scott, I love those V2 180 esc, such a good design with the layout and cooling block.
    Thanks Ken, this one is just practice for my next & final FE...
    IMG_3241.jpg

    Next year it's back to racing 2 stroke (wife approved). Having three kids in two years shut down the garage for a while.

    Did you get your new boat in the water?

  6. #6

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    The front inside seams of the fork are not covered in Kevlar. I would do those even though very difficult.

    My crash wash unusually hard but that's where it breaks.

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  7. #7

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    Good point, I'll check it out. Thanks

  8. #8

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    Anyone had to offset the strut to the starboard side to counteract propwalk on this hull. I offset 3/16 on my gas cats.

  9. #9

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    I've read a lot about the Cheetah, but never that it suffers from prop walk
    Zelos 36 Twin, Voracity 36, Miss Geico 29 V3, King of Shaves P1, Mini Zonda 27, Delta Force 26, Offshore Infinity, Stealthwake, Vac-U-Tug Jr

  10. #10

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    I have not came across it either, but figured I would ask before I started drilling holes. Thanks for your reply

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanity Plea View Post
    Anyone had to offset the strut to the starboard side to counteract propwalk on this hull. I offset 3/16 on my gas cats.
    Nope
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph

  12. #12

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    Anyone had to offset the strut to the starboard side to counteract propwalk on this hull. I offset 3/16 on my gas cats.
    Don't know if I "had to" but mine is offset 3/16". I do this on most of my builds, on the Cheetah I used almost no left rudder trim to go straight. The offset will depend on the prop used. I started with a 1445 Kv motor and an x452 prop and it ran straight. With a 1900 Kv motor and smaller prop - same thing. There is no downside to offsetting the drive on this hull.



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  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    Don't know if I "had to" but mine is offset 3/16". I do this on most of my builds, on the Cheetah I used almost no left rudder trim to go straight. The offset will depend on the prop used. I started with a 1445 Kv motor and an x452 prop and it ran straight. With a 1900 Kv motor and smaller prop - same thing. There is no downside to offsetting the drive on this hull.
    .

    Thanks, maybe I'll follow suit since it didn't seem to hurt anything.
    I'm hoping to get out there tonight and get some stuff done, over the weekend at the least. Pics to follow

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    Don't know if I "had to" but mine is offset 3/16". I do this on most of my builds, on the Cheetah I used almost no left rudder trim to go straight. The offset will depend on the prop used. I started with a 1445 Kv motor and an x452 prop and it ran straight. With a 1900 Kv motor and smaller prop - same thing. There is no downside to offsetting the drive on this hull.



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    Good info. Thx. I might try this on my narrower cats.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph

  15. #15

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    It might not be the best way to do it, but it works for me... 1/8 offset stbd side...

    IMG_3361.jpg
    IMG_3366.jpg
    IMG_3369.jpg
    Last edited by Insanity Plea; 09-02-2017 at 06:26 AM.

  16. #16

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    Is everyone running the centerline of the strut barrel close to the bottom of the sponsons? I'm not sure I'll be able to open my slot up enough to get it that far down.

  17. #17

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    Slow going but got this done yesterday, didn't turn out bad for my first time...

    IMG_3772.jpg
    IMPBA 20583

  18. #18

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    Just came across this and have to ask...what's the purpose of off-setting the strut?

  19. #19

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    Sometimes propwalk occurs and you have to set your rudder at an angle for the boat to track strait. Of course, if your rudder is at an angle, you're going to scrub off speed. From what I've gathered, propwalk is more of an issue with gas boats more than electric boats.
    IMPBA 20583

  20. #20

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    I guess shimming the strut would srrub a tiny bit of speed too. I'll have to try off setting the strut on the Geico build.

  21. #21

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    Shimming will scrub a little off. A skeg strut seems to help eliminate the propwalk also, just creates more drag. As I stated, I think this is mainly a gas issue. The aeromarine conquest is very well known for it in particular (which is my cat of choice). As Fluid stated, he hasn't seen a negative result from doing it but also couldn't confirm it's needed.
    IMPBA 20583

  22. #22

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    I had an avenger pro with a CY 26cc once. Damn thing would always flip at 58 mph lol.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    I guess shimming the strut would srrub a tiny bit of speed too. I'll have to try off setting the strut on the Geico build.
    FWIW, I've not experienced that issue on upgraded, fast V3 cats personally.

  24. #24

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    Your photos show kevlar not over seems in bow and while a pain to do needs to be done. I have done it with small pieces using an acid brush taped to a stick so I can reach the tip, not always best looking but does help.

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    I had an avenger pro with a CY 26cc once. Damn thing would always flip at 58 mph lol.
    A touch of negative strut angle and maybe raising it just a little might would have solved that. The CG could have been too far back also, those boats need the motor to be mounted as far forward as possible.
    IMPBA 20583

  26. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    FWIW, I've not experienced that issue on upgraded, fast V3 cats personally.
    I echo this, not so much from experience but I've read a lot of build threads in here and have never ran across someone mentioning it before
    IMPBA 20583

  27. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by fweasel View Post
    FWIW, I've not experienced that issue on upgraded, fast V3 cats personally.
    I'm doing a ground up build on a V2. Bought it as a bare hull.

  28. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanity Plea View Post
    A touch of negative strut angle and maybe raising it just a little might would have solved that. The CG could have been too far back also, those boats need the motor to be mounted as far forward as possible.
    I had the motor as far forward as it would go. I had to clearance the hatch saddle so I could get my wrench in there to get to the mount bolts.

  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    I had the motor as far forward as it would go. I had to clearance the hatch saddle so I could get my wrench in there to get to the mount bolts.
    Definitely not a CG issue, I've ran my two with an extended Speedmaster strut and had good success. Setting up a new one for next year with a standard skeg strut so I'll see how much of a difference it makes, this one is going to be for offshore so I need it to carve the tight turns.
    IMPBA 20583

  30. #30

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    Making progress slowly, I'm mainly working on it while passing through the garage, 10-15 minutes at a time... Working out the gelcoat cracks in bottom of sponson was easier than expected, using west marine epoxy putty after grinding out the cracks.

    IMG_3904.jpgIMG_3905.jpgIMG_3906.jpg
    IMPBA 20583

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