Monos run on the last 1" or so. I didn't say anything about them being the same speed.Originally Posted by CraigP
Fast Electric Addict!
Monos run on the last 1" or so. I didn't say anything about them being the same speed.
Fast Electric Addict!
I have the 150 amp EagleTree system, it is a valuable tool. I was running a leopard 4082 - 1450kv motor on 6s with a Turnigy 180 ESC and up to an M645 prop on a 32" Deep-V hull. The highest MAX amp draw I saw was 150-160 (during takeoff usually) and then the amps hovered around 125. My temp range for ESC was 115-125 degrees, motor temp range was 85-100 degrees. Best MPH on this heavy boat was 55.
Here are some images of the data I captured
My main dashboard when I download the logger
NSR 32 Leopard 1450kv 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Gauges.JPG
AMP chart, this helps to see your spikes
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Amps Chart.jpg
AMPS, RPMS, Watts, Volts. This helps show me the effects different props have on the setup
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Multiples Chart.jpg
RPM
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 RPM Chart.jpg
Temp (Blue = Motor / Gray + ESC)
NSR 32 Leopard 1450KV 6S M645 Prop 6-2-17 Temp Chart.jpg
NEVER SATISFIED RACING
Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s
Fast Electric Addict!
No, you didn't, which was a failure on your part. If you're going to compare hull technology, then you need a central point of comparison. That's why I'm pushing back on you... FE stands for "fast electric", not "free energy".
The same is true on the DF Vortex comments you made. You have no idea about the changes to hydrodynamic and aerodynamic forces Ive made, all huge components of a hydro's charactersitic. So you seem to shoot out statements fast, but have little contemplation behind the statements. You may have 25 years experience, but your statements are not reflecting that. To me, it comes across that you just don't like the hull. I saw the things the hull IS, not what it ISN'T. And I have the experience (longer than you) to fix it. Those sponsons came from teachings I got in the 80's and 90's from a guy named Ron Jones, the most prolific hydro designer/builder of all time. Not looking for your approval. I know Ron would smile, and he's the one I look up to!
Fast Electric Addict!
Excellent usage of the system! Shows it all, doesn't it? Allows you to learn, and make intelligent predictions on what prop changes will do! Thanks for posting... PS looks like my dashboard, it's good software!
Fast Electric Addict!
Can you point me to where I made a comment about your boat?? And maybe take a chill pill or two...
Fast Electric Addict!
Tiny pond, you drive good! What's your battery configuration? My boat has a little 3674 in it. I'm going to try that out first, and log how hot it gets... great video!
Fast Electric Addict!
Your right, it was somebody on another post, I apologize for that. I try a lot of new things, and frequently get attacked from others, especially members with many years experience. Although I haven't been in your club, that doesn't mean I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm sorry that frustration was focused at you, you didn't deserve that... I don't and will not race, so racers need to understand that their needs and experiences, as well as goals and priorities, are different from sport boaters.
Senior Member
Ya it could be bigger haha, that's on my buddies land though so when I go out there to drink beer its hard NOT to bring a boat to play with even if his pond is a little small Lol. I was running two 3s 7200 SPC packs in series. Its a little more tricky with something faster!!
Senior Member
On a side note, how are these wired? Just + and - to the speedo? I've been contemplating one of these and should just pony up and get one.
Fast Electric Addict!
There two sets of power leads:
1) +/- from the batteries. The black should go to the minus side of the battery pack and the red to the plus.
2) +/- to the ESC. The black goes to the minus of the ESC and the red to the plus.
Note: the two minus leads (black) are essentially just tied at the ET, forming a continuous run from the battery to the ESC. You need this on the ET so it can properly read the pack voltage. The red comes in from the battery and passes thru a metal conductor out to the power input lead of the ESC. This is NOT a current sense resistor. There really is no loss with this circuit. The metal conductor is surrounded by a non-contacting Hall effect device that senses the magnetic field eminating from the metal conductor. It's pretty slick!
Fast Electric Addict!
I'm going t obe selling my last EagleTree setup soon I think, I switched over to GAS!
NEVER SATISFIED RACING
Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s
Fast Electric Addict!
No worries. Take a sec before hitting the enter key. Most of us racers also sport boat so we know both sides of it. Pushing the limits when you have restraints can help a lot with those not doing it. Give us racers some credit too.
Fast Electric Addict!
Will do and again, I'll use more patience in the future... going to run the DF29 mono for the first time this weekend since picking it up from a guy on the forum. Have you seen that carbon mono for sale? Dang, it's such a sweeeet boat! The DF is really thin... I had the put some reinforcements in it down thru the vee. Here's a pic and if you see something, please let me know! I will take your advice constructively.
I made a plate from T6061-T6, 0.050" thick the mount the center battery and ESC, as well as reinforce the bottom. You can just make out the feet glassed to the bottom. I just put in a thru hull, dual water pickup and will cool ESC and motor on their own circuits. There's a T-180 ESC with added caps I put on. I got a Leopard 3674 1400kv motor in it to run 6s. Got a M440 to start... it's a .150 flex shaft running a liner. It came that way, thought I would run it that way. Thanks for looking and understanding..
Senior Member
good job, wish I could buy you two a beer...
Fast Electric Addict!
You makin' me thirsty!
Fast Electric Addict!
I'd go out for a beer! Where in OK are you located Craig? I'm just north of DFW in McKinney. And the mono looks good.
Fast Electric Addict!
I'm in a Tulsa, we used to have our company meeting in an office in Legacy Park, pretty close to McKinney. Our Web Developer lives in McKinney! We now meet in Midland, where our operations are located. Are you in Telcomm? I thought I saw that on your bio...
Fast Electric Addict!
I am in telecom. I did most of the phone conversions in Tulsa for sw bell in the 90s. I have some friends in Tulsa that run for sport. Im actually looking to head that way Saturday if they're going out.
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Fast Electric Addict!
Can I PM you?
Fast Electric Addict!
No :-)
Senior Member
Are you guys using this RPM sensor? https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pr...rpm-kit-brs-v2
Fast Electric Addict!
Yes, that's the BLDC sensor, good unit! Don't use the magnetic version, we spin the shaft too fast, they could come off to easily for my liking...
Senior Member
Got my ET in the mail today :) I'm looking to swap the 12 awg wires to 10 awg. Anyone done this successfully? Any tips? I don't want to cook my new unit any suggestions would be appreciated! And any idea where to get the clear heat shrink?
Fast Electric Addict!
You need a soldering iron with a big chisel point. Get the old wires off the ET first. I just cut the clear heat shrink off in a box in front of the four wires. I tinned the #10 wire first, making sure I got 100% solder penetration in the wire weave. I put solder on the ET pad, flow it and bring the #10 wire onto it. You need gloves! It gets hot!! You do need to watch how much heating time you put on the PCB. On a scale of 1-10, this soldering project is an 8 in difficulty, especially the two #10 ground wires. You need your A game for this one... if you have an inadequate solder iron, then I don't recommend it. I have a Weller Digital 75W unit. The key is to use the large chisel point. You will never get it hot enough with a small point tip. Good luck and remember those gloves!
Senior Member
Thanks Craig! So my $20 40watt is not going to cut it.... I'll go shopping. Kester 60/40 good for this? Do you have any pics for reference? Thanks again!
Fast Electric Addict!
if youre looking to do the 300amp mod, best to leave the 12ga. itll be hard to get the extra wire soldered on.
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Senior Member
Good point oscarel, maybe I'll wait and do a few runs first. All my wire is 10awg with 6.5mm castles, I was just concerned the ET 12awg might bottle neck the current or create extra heat.
Last edited by R2315; 08-29-2017 at 07:13 PM.
Fast Electric Addict!
Here's a pic of the 10 gauge wire on the ET. I wrapped the ET with Kapton tape, a specialty high voltage, high temperature tape used in electronic manufacturing. You can tell that it wasn't easy! It's soldered to my Cap Board. This is for my hydro, down right now for final paint. So note this hasn't been tested... I hope to run this weekend, maybe you should wait and I'll report if it still works.
Hey Oscar, glad you got home all right. Oscar came up to Tulsa to run his boats with some Tulsa guys he's known for years. He invited me to come run my DF29 Mono, it's first time in the water since I bought it used from a guy on this site. Oscar helped me work it out, and the little boat screams!
Fast Electric Addict!
No, 60W minimum! The solder is fine. I have another ET to modify and I'm not looking forward to it! Was going to put it in the DF29, put its running pretty sweet. I'm thinking I'll leave it alone for now.
Fast Electric Addict!
Craig, yes we made it home safe. It was great meeting you and your wife. We'll have to get together agaon soon!
Ryan, also you want to make sure the ET works before modding, may void your warranty.
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