Hi all,
I'm looking into the Eagle Tree Elogger V4 150a. My question is I'm running a 2200kv Neu with a 180A Seaking on 4s in a 30" mono, do you think its safe to use the 150A version or am I pushing it?
Thanks,
Hi all,
I'm looking into the Eagle Tree Elogger V4 150a. My question is I'm running a 2200kv Neu with a 180A Seaking on 4s in a 30" mono, do you think its safe to use the 150A version or am I pushing it?
Thanks,
Time a run and use the estimated amp draw calculator https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.php
It won't hurt it, just show a maxed out reading...
How do you know how much amps he's pulling? A 180A seaking can take way more than what it's rated for.
Thanks, I wasn't sure how accurate that was but if it is close on a 5000mah pack using 20% (4000) over 150sec it puts me at 96amps. Thanks CraigP for the RMRC find!
Just remember that's an average. If you did a lot of on and off you're going to have some larger spikes. What prop are you running?
usually m400 or x440 when I want a little more punch off the start. Hey saw that link to modding it to a 300amp, will it actually log that?
sorry M440
yes it will. with that small of a prop you should be safe with 150 amp. most of our race boats that size we're using in the x445 range. and also more mah.
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Ya I'm worried worried about tearing up the .150 flex with the 445 so for now until I feel the need it will be the M440 for the most part. Thanks oscarel!
I'm just sport running right now so the Eagle Tree will give me the chance to experiment :)
The currents spikes that I'm seeing on my ET on my hydro are prop jumps, you know, hitting small waves and jumping out of the water then hooking back up, happens very quickly. No hydro runs hooked up 100%, it would be running way too wet. From what I see, as I increase the prop size, these current spikes really jump up in magnitude. So the larger props pull much more momentary power hooking back up in the water. Not much you can do about the prop coming out of the water, but it seems the prop size needs consideration based on this. These current spikes are hard on the capacitors as well, creating lots of heat. So far, on my boat, it looks like a smaller prop spinning faster is easier on the electrical system. That's what I really like about this system! I don't go over the 150A level, so it's working good for me. I run about 90-100a hooked up with spikes to 130-140a.
ive seen your posts, but not which boat you're running.. for the amp calc, if you make a run for say 60 secs (or shorter) wide open and then check what u put back into the lipos that would give a better estimate.
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Yes, average amp draw, but not spikes! You have to data log to see that, either with an external unit like ET or use a ESC that has the feature. It's those spikes that probably give people some problems..
I haven't posted running pics of my boat, only some construction pics. I'm trying to get thru final paint. I'll try and find someone to take pics or get a vid on it. It's a DF Vortex34 with heavily modified sponsons. I've posted specs all over the place on the forum, so I'll skip that here.
Toysport Syncron 28" mono. I went ahead a pulled the trigger on one anyway from RMRC good deal at $39.99. I'm up north now with not so good weather so my next run will likely be at my local pond but I'll give that a shot and see what I get oscarel.. Thanks again guys!
Here's a pic of the bottom, after final white coat. Taken today...
The type of boat was for R2315, you seem to have a handle on the amps.
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Is R2315 the deep V outboard, pictured at top?
Yes, I'm hoping to get into a little more advanced building but for now this thing is lots of fun! With the ET I should be able to take things a little further.
IMG_0207.jpg
That will run much more hooked up. Being a mono, it will pull more amps, so keeping an eye on current seems to be a good play. I just got a DF29 mono! Hasn't seen the water yet, but looking forward to learning too. Hydros are a different animal all together... not easy to tune..
This hobby is addictive, I just got this one in the water and I'm thinking about what's next.
It's all in how you prop and set up the boat. Monos pull no more amps than cats or hydros. My 4s cat and mono share the same mah lipos during races and they come back drained pretty close. Hydros aren't that difficult either, COG around the middle of the turn fin and adjust from there.
How can that be? There's more boat in the water with a mono, thus more friction. Achieving 60mph in a 30" mono has to take more power than similar speed and sized hydro. What you're saying defies the laws of physics. There's a reason a little knee outboard hydro can go as fast as an SK runabout.
These monos look like fun! Here's my DF29, getting rigged for 6s. It's got a 30V, 1400kv motor. We got close to the same ESC, a Turnigy 180a. It won't come even close to that amperage, but it should be very reliable. It came with the boat, running 4s before. Can't wait to run it, need the radio, it's in the mail...
That's looking great! 1400kv on 6s should be cooler and more efficient too not to mention lots of room for prop options, I was going to do a 6s setup then changed my mind last min.. I have a flood chamber so less room in there. Let me know how it turns out, should be awasome though! The mono's handle nice and are good fun!
Yes, both m440 and x440 are two blades I really like the m440 though, still haven't put the GPS on it but maybe I'll add that on to the ET
My favorite prop on the hydro is the M445. I think I'll get a M440, pretty sure it will work good on this. Checking the calculator...
Yeah, it says 44mph, perfect cruising speed!
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