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Thread: Tech. Question

  1. #1
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    Default Tech. Question

    I realize not many have seen the boat but, to those who have or heard. Will stuff tubes and framing inside need as much tweaking as many other RTR boats? Would removing the teflon inside stuff tube be feasable? These if were not needing fixed from factory could add some speed and reliablity sales from newb's. Just wondering if they realized how many put so much work into their previous boats to show up as bad report from forums.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Tweaking? Do you mean aligning? BTY there is no framing inside the boat. Personally I do not run a boat with out checking the alignment of the shaft.. (All boats RTR or other)

    (BTY.. nothing to do with this project) I once tested how far off you could have a stuffing tube, still win races and not have crap break.. You would be surprised.. its silly.. it will eventually start to split the brass, way before the cable start to fatigue.

    I would only remove the Teflon IF i was to use an auto oilier. (not typical on FE boats)

    When you say They.. do you mean ME? That is what you are saying. Bottom line.. Im a boat racer. I also have a background in mechanical design. I ran my own successful RC business so I have a good idea of how to listen to the end user. Lots of I’s in there but its just the facts.

    But like all product development projects you have trade offs.. (I call it picking your battles). If you go to the fight with the intention of winning them all.. you will DIE trying. There is no such thing as winning them all. When it comes to how many holes we drill in a bushing or the alignment of the stuffing tube… the cost it can take to communicate that can might not be worth the gain..

    So

    You like to have the shaft aligned PERFITLY with the stuffing tube.. me to.. same with the MFG.. great for one boat.. now make MANY! And pay your bud “jim” or whoever do them for ya.. tell me what you get.. I bet at the end of the day Friday, Jim is wishing he has a tolerance to set the alignment. (say.. shaft not touching the side of the stuffing tube) as it exits the cable coupler. Remember winning them all!

    ROCK ON

    Again feel free to ask questions.

    Grimracer

  3. #3
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    Default

    Wow! sweet. Ask a question and get straight answers right from the source. Thank you Sir. I meant no harm in question and comment. I received a few boats with loose motors, leaking cooling, loose stuff tubes, and etc. I understand it is difficult to mass produce. I cant wait to order one.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, anytime... let me know how you like the boat, I have a feeling your realy going to like it.

    Grimracer

  5. #5
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    Default

    At 329 or 279 for a SV how can you beat that. You get all you need, so it needs to be personalized... Not everyone will be happy but then there are boats costing 6, 7, 9 hundred bucks they can get. Not stickin up for anyone but the SV is one hell of a boat for the money and I cant wait to see a op to grab a UL1, I am sure its gonna be awsome

  6. #6
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    Default

    I am excited about putting the UL-1 motor and ESC into my SV27!! Can't wait for those to be offered separately.

    I've seen the UL-1 up close and personal and it is a really nice boat out of the box. People will naturally want to do their own tweaks with it, but from what I've seen they are not required. Overall between the SV27 and UL-1 I think AquaCraft has nailed it!!
    Don't get me started

  7. #7
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    Default

    I am extremely happy with both my SV's. I cant wait to get the UL-1! My birthday is in January I'll have to give the wife a subtle hint. LOL

  8. #8
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    Default

    Question, I have a Octura 1742-3 prop here. It dont work with anythiing I have. Will it work on the UL1. If yes then I will keep it around.

  9. #9
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    Default

    1700 series props were developed for OB hydroplane racing. You are going to have to remove some lift to make it work well.. Typically high lift props (unless moded) are hard to make work on full body hydros.

    Grim

  10. #10
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    Default

    I noticed the UL-1 has a three channel receiver.
    Is the 3rd channel for that servo which pops open the hood
    Or maybe I can deploy that airbag to prevent what happened to my SV...

    Seriously, any way to use that 3rd channel with another transmitter or simple mod to the transmitter ?
    Berry

  11. #11
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    Cool

    The photos of the Tactic 2.4GHz radio I've seen say "2-channel radio control system" on the front of the transmitter. I understand that no other transmitter will work with the Tactic receivers. It might be cool if there was an option for a 3rd channel, but frankly for a race boat there is no need for more than two. Too much happening in a race to find the 3rd channel button....




    .

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    ... but frankly for a race boat there is no need for more than two. Too much happening in a race to find the 3rd channel button....
    Maybe for a tunnel-tab style trim control??? Though, those that I've seen are actually mixed into the rudder control...

    My buddy used his 3rd channel to turn on and off his ESC and motor cooling fans, hooking it to a tiny little 8A ESC...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  13. #13
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    PlaneZero.. are you somewhat new to RC.. GOOD DEAL FOR SURE.. you are going to have a blast.. ROCK ON!!!

    Reason I ask is for years not radio MFGs will some times build extra channels in to the RXs and sell just one.. or a few kinds...It allows us to add goodies to a boat or car package at the drop of a hat.

    The TX that comes with the UL-1 is a 2 channel.. the RX a 3 channel.. in time we will likely offer applications for that RX.

    Having said that Jay is 100% right.. unless its a needle.. no need in a FE boat, at least not for most racing.

    Grim

  14. #14
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    The 3rd channel is used to ignite the Estes rocket engine when you are in the home stretch.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  15. #15
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    Default

    Mike, other than enjoying your SV27 for the last two years, the last transmitter I bought was a Robbe "economic" somewhere in the 80's
    So, I am a new old guy to RC stuff.
    I ordered a yellow UL-1 today with OSE and am sure I'll love it !

    Seeing there was a 3 channel receiver I ventured to guess there would be a 3 channel transmitter also. Sometimes manufacturers use the same circuit printboards for different products and was asking if maybe this could easily be modded to use the 3rd channel.

    Another (probably noob) question, how does this system work with multiple boats, do you need different frequency oscillators like in a 'normal' TX, or does it sort out different frequencies automagically when you arm it ?

    Thanks for your answers...
    Berry

  16. #16
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by egneg View Post
    The 3rd channel is used to ignite the Estes rocket engine when you are in the home stretch.
    I found that hilarious !
    I'm not sure that would be legal in any boat class, but well worth the try!
    Berry

  17. #17
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    Default

    Grim great job!!!
    Being this is a tech. question thread, How do I stop the teflon liner from spinning with the flexcable? Have you seen this before or is it normal?
    Thanks in advance,
    Alvin

  18. #18
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    Cool

    The teflon tube should not spin within the brass stuffing tube. In my experience (not with the SV) if the cable is properly lubed the teflon won't spin, but I know that it happens. What some do is to extend the teflon liner about 1/4" into the boat and stretch a short length of silicon fuel tubing over both the teflon and the brass stuffing tube. This provides enough grip to keep the teflon in place.

    There are probably other options too, but this is one reason I usually recommend not using the teflon, just running the cable in a brass tube (the next size smaller than the main stuffing tube). Ive been doing this in all my own boats for over a decade and have never worn out the brass tube with either wire or flex cable - but I do use good lubes and remove my driveline after every day of use.

    However, for a consumer product the teflon liner makes perfect sense. I'll probably keep the teflon liner in my UL-1 unless it becomes a problem.


    .

  19. #19
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    Default

    First off...really great looking boat

    ok, newbie question

    Of the 3 available optional props...which one is best? Or more to point, what are the differences?

    Thanks

  20. #20
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    Alvin,

    I doubt the teflon is spinning with the boat underway.. You will see the Teflon scoot up to the coupler but that does not mean its spinning..

    One thing I have done on my race boats is cut a length of brass tube (in this case 7/32") about 3/8" long. Cut the liner short enough to allow the new length of brass to slip in. Slip it in from the coupler side and tack solder in place.

    Having said this...

    Teflon is VERY hard to extrude as a tube. We have seen and have had teflon "out of spec" regarding fit into the brass tube. It also shrinks and swells ALLOT regarding temperatures.

    More info then most of us EVER NEED.. Sorry


    Zark,

    The three blade 40X52 is going to provide the least amount of lift, be easy to launch and a great all around prop
    The 38mm prop is a great heat racing prop. Just the right amount of lift and great handing in race water. (not the fastest.. again,.. Heat racing prop)
    The new cleaver 3 blade is very FAST.. its going to stress your batteries to the limit. If you want to rock the house this is the prop. You better know your setups before using this prop to any extent.

    ROCK ON ALL!

    Grimracer

  21. #21
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    Jay.. Thanks for all your help on the board.. With all my design and development time on the bench I do not always get the chance to help out around here.

    Guys.. please.. when Jay posts take the time to read and comprehend.. He has tons of time RC boating and is a very valuable asset to us all.

    Thanks again Jay!

    Grimracer

  22. #22
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    Default Radio change

    I have a new UL1 and would like to swap out the radio system so I can use my 3PK which has the Spektrum module.
    Will the stock ESC accept this change if I replace the stock reciever with an SR3000?

    Thanks

    Rusty Jarrett

  23. #23
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    should work just fine
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  24. #24
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    Default Spektrum

    Thanks Jim,

    I just made the swap and the ESC beeps once when I plug in the second battery, but it is not powering the reciever, so I cannot bind it. Any Suggestions?

  25. #25
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    reciever battery?
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  26. #26
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    Got in a hurry, and did not put a battery in the system. All of my electric cars run BEC, only my nitro cars have a battery.

    Sorry to waste your time.

  27. #27
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    not a wast of time at all
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
    Billy Graham

  28. #28
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    Default Bec

    It is a BEC system. Has anyone changed a UL1 to Spektrum?
    Any help is very much appreciated.

  29. #29
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    Rusty, set your throttle trim at 0 (dead center) and then advance or retard the throttle trim until the system binds.

  30. #30
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    I think what he means is, get your throttle in the right position, THEN bind.

    The reason is that if you lose signal the receiver puts the throttle in the state it had when you did the bind. If the ESC is not off, the motor will continue to run.

    Do yourself a favor and test this by

    1) Bind with the throttle in the right position
    2) Power down both RX and TX.
    3) Remove the binding plug (or release the bind button).
    4) Power up the tx, then the rx. Wait until they connect.
    5) Test the throttle operation. If it works properly, then while the motor is running
    6) Turn off the tx.

    The motor should shut down. If it doesn't, you need to trim your throttle down and rebind.

    Andy
    Spektrum Development Team

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