Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 61 to 90 of 96

Thread: ML Boatworks GP310 build

  1. #61

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Yup, that's a Block O' Aluminum all right! It looks too thin, lol!
    Haha yeah probably overkill, but glueing that massive slice on there was rather satisfying. I really don't want to have any issues, because once the deck is on, that's it. I figure having more meatbthere, equals more thread, and less chance of stripping.
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  2. #62

    Default

    Yeah, I always worry about getting that cross threaded and messing up or pulling the thread. I like to thru drill the aluminum and use a 8-32 blind nut with the teeth cut off, epoxied onto the block using the large round head on it. That way if I ever do have thread problems, I can pop out the bad blind nut and use my long needle nose pliers to get another one in there... But the wood framed boats do present access challenges. Is that 6061-T6 material? Really like your build thread, looking good man!

  3. #63

    Default

    The build is coming along fine. A clear & concise build thread too.
    That is a lot of aluminium for the mounting block. I've only ever used 1/4" plate myself. Even in the bigger GP400 & the 1/8 scale hydros. No way will the bolts strip out of the block you have.

    Just in relation to the turn fin, I ended up with a UL-1 fin on mine & it worked pretty well too.
    Looking forward to the finished boat & the maiden runs.

  4. #64

    Default

    785, that UL-1 fin worked for you, eh? I had that as my first fin on my 34" Hydro and found it was bending right about the apex of the turn. It caused the boat to suddenly understeer. At first I was thinking rudder, but that was fine. I put a side brace on it, it still bent! I didn't bend permanently, just moved like a spring... I had to go with a hardened, 7075 aluminum fin to keep it turning true. But I have a heavy boat...

  5. #65

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Yeah, I always worry about getting that cross threaded and messing up or pulling the thread. I like to thru drill the aluminum and use a 8-32 blind nut with the teeth cut off, epoxied onto the block using the large round head on it. That way if I ever do have thread problems, I can pop out the bad blind nut and use my long needle nose pliers to get another one in there... But the wood framed boats do present access challenges. Is that 6061-T6 material? Really like your build thread, looking good man!
    Thanks man. Yep 6061 block from Remington industries.
    My plan is to just tap the aluminum, that way if I ever have a problem I can just relocate the fin mount, drill and tap new holes.

  6. #66

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    The build is coming along fine. A clear & concise build thread too.
    That is a lot of aluminium for the mounting block. I've only ever used 1/4" plate myself. Even in the bigger GP400 & the 1/8 scale hydros. No way will the bolts strip out of the block you have.

    Just in relation to the turn fin, I ended up with a UL-1 fin on mine & it worked pretty well too.
    Looking forward to the finished boat & the maiden runs.
    Thanks man. I tried not to overdo the build thread and loose people in a mountain of tiny details.
    Yeah this 1/2 block is way overkill, but it certainly isn't hurting anything lol.
    On the fin I ended up with a stainless still fin from mojo racing.

  7. #67

    Default

    IMG_4936.jpgIMG_4933.jpgHere you can see my fin mount, which is just a speedmaster universal rudder mount. 4 bolts into a 1/2 thick aluminum block should be good even thru the explosion of our sun lol

    And as you can see, the rear predrilled holes are fine, just need to drill a front and I'm good
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  8. #68

    Default

    Hi Craig.
    I would say that this 31" boat is a lot lighter than your 'heavy' 34" boat. Probably why the UL-1 fin worked well on mine.
    Here is another fin that works well on sport 20 size boats like this. Designed by "Raydee" here on this forum. I have a couple working well.
    cache.jpg

  9. #69

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Luck as a Constant View Post
    IMG_4936.jpgIMG_4933.jpgHere you can see my fin mount, which is just a speedmaster universal rudder mount. 4 bolts into a 1/2 thick aluminum block should be good even thru the explosion of our sun lol

    And as you can see, the rear predrilled holes are fine, just need to drill a front and I'm good
    Great looking fin.
    If Mike recommends it, you can bet that it will work extremely well.

  10. #70

    Default

    so, todays attempt at drilling and tapping for the turn fin was an utter failure. i hadn't considered what tapping 1/2 thick aluminum would be like. well, the first attempt the tap broke inside. so i figured ok, ill just move along to another. the second hole wasn't going much better. but instead of making things worse, i just took the heat gun out and heated up the rather fresh epoxy and gently worked the whole block loose and cleaned out all the glue. i will be grabbing a 1/4 block this time and just pre drilling and tapping before glueing in.
    also i decided to mount the strut and rudder. the strut went fine, and then i reoriented the rudder to mount on the left side. i should have asked mike first, because after i mounted i asked him and he told me right side. balls. so i put the boat down and called it a day. i really don't need to continue making things worse.
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  11. #71

    Default

    I have most of my rudders on the left side. Controversial topic, per the norm in this hobby.
    Mine all handle great and even the one or two I have on the right run great.
    If I were doing this build, I'd leave it on left side and change once I had a chance to run and determine handling.
    Mike himself may see how it runs and be impressed. I think there are other variables that are more critical to get right.
    "Look good doin' it"
    See the fleet

  12. #72

    Default

    Mine are on the left by design... The boat makes beautiful turns! Don't worry about that, many have success on both sides.

  13. #73

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Luck as a Constant View Post
    so, todays attempt at drilling and tapping for the turn fin was an utter failure. i hadn't considered what tapping 1/2 thick aluminum would be like. well, the first attempt the tap broke inside. so i figured ok, ill just move along to another. the second hole wasn't going much better. but instead of making things worse, i just took the heat gun out and heated up the rather fresh epoxy and gently worked the whole block loose and cleaned out all the glue. i will be grabbing a 1/4 block this time and just pre drilling and tapping before glueing in.
    also i decided to mount the strut and rudder. the strut went fine, and then i reoriented the rudder to mount on the left side. i should have asked mike first, because after i mounted i asked him and he told me right side. balls. so i put the boat down and called it a day. i really don't need to continue making things worse.
    I was concerned about that... aluminum is very grabby to tap. Need to blow, oil and back thread a lot. I was going to recommend a 1/4" block, but I picked up from you that you wanted the thick piece. Good play to pre-tap, you can use one drill size larger to go thru the boat to match up to the block. But matching up those holes isn't real easy which is why I like to thru-drill the block and get a nut glued on the back side. Those blind nuts are damn good dude! I ain't saying no more about that, lol!

  14. #74

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    I was concerned about that... aluminum is very grabby to tap. Need to blow, oil and back thread a lot. I was going to recommend a 1/4" block, but I picked up from you that you wanted the thick piece. Good play to pre-tap, you can use one drill size larger to go thru the boat to match up to the block. But matching up those holes isn't real easy which is why I like to thru-drill the block and get a nut glued on the back side. Those blind nuts are damn good dude! I ain't saying no more about that, lol!
    yeah man, ill get it all figured out. just needed to step away from it for today. i may just go with a bind nut. we will see
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  15. #75

    Default

    IMG_4997.jpgIMG_5003.jpgIMG_4998.jpgI got some 1/4 aluminum, marked the holes then drilled and tapped it before glueing in. I used a small amount of glue when glueing so I didn't get it near the threads, and used the bolts to glue into place to be sure everything lined up proper. That whole part of this build was a bit of a chore for me, but now it's done and I can move on.
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  16. #76

    Default

    i also need to start thinking about powering this thing.
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  17. #77

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Luck as a Constant View Post
    IMG_4997.jpgIMG_5003.jpgIMG_4998.jpgI got some 1/4 aluminum, marked the holes then drilled and tapped it before glueing in. I used a small amount of glue when glueing so I didn't get it near the threads, and used the bolts to glue into place to be sure everything lined up proper. That whole part of this build was a bit of a chore for me, but now it's done and I can move on.
    It seems every build hits it's rough spot... I know the feeling!

  18. #78

    Default

    Man that's a wicked looking turn fin.

  19. #79

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beaux View Post
    Man that's a wicked looking turn fin.
    stainless steel from mojo racing
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  20. #80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    It seems every build hits it's rough spot... I know the feeling!
    yeah, and i am being rather anal about this part too. i wanted to make sure the mount is seated square to the bottom of the ride pad. i made sure to also drill out any mounting hole just a mm larger than the bolts holding them. a tiny bit can make all the difference when tuning it.
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  21. #81

    Default

    Yep, you need tweaking room! I found the turn fin to be the most sensitive and productive tuning, even more that the strut. The strut is pretty basic, prop shaft centerline at depth of back of sponsons. I always try to achieve a zero strut angle, that just seems to be a tweak trying to fix another weakness. Sure looks good, enjoy it!

  22. #82

    Default

    How thick is the material for the turn fin mount?

    >
    >

  23. #83

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    How thick is the material for the turn fin mount?
    The block inside? It's 1/4 thicknesses
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  24. #84

    Default

    No, I think he's talking about the angle bracket... it looked a little thin to me too...

  25. #85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    No, I think he's talking about the angle bracket... it looked a little thin to me too...
    It's a rudder bracket from speedmaster. I'll
    Measure it later but it's not a flimsy piece
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  26. #86

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    No, I think he's talking about the angle bracket... it looked a little thin to me too...
    That is what I am referring to. Hard to tell if it's the .125" thick angle bracket or a thicker one.

    >
    >

  27. #87

    Default

    IMG_5030.jpgIMG_5041.jpg

    Last night I got pool noodles in everywhere, then glued the deck on.


    sorry for my lack of detail lately. all i did was get out the west systems, coat the area the deck was going on, then coat one side of the deck itself, then used weights, tape and clamps where i could to get it in places.

    all set
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  28. #88

    Default

    Nice looking build! Keep up the good work! Mike
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.WOODRCBOATKITS.COM

  29. #89

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cybercrxt View Post
    Nice looking build! Keep up the good work! Mike
    thanks for stopping by mike!
    There's a hole at the center of earth where the rest of the world sinks but i stand still...

  30. #90

    Default

    I have been watching actually! I just dont always post, haha
    Laser cut, birch plywood rc race boat kits- WWW.MLBOATWORKSRC.COM WWW.WOODRCBOATKITS.COM

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •