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Thread: leopard 4092 1480kv problem

  1. #31
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    I believe that! Leopard isn't top shelf, so a different motor maybe for comp runs?

  2. #32
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    I wish I knew what my true battery terminal voltage runs at. With the datalogger, it sees the volts after the power feed cables and connectors. They aren't running hot, but I know there is a drop occurring.. it's even lower at the ESC, so I think this is a good practice.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    I believe that! Leopard isn't top shelf, so a different motor maybe for comp runs?
    Im not impressed, seems more like a replacement motor than an upgrade motor

  4. #34
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    I'll have to try an SS motor. I wouldn't be in the sport if all motors were the price of Neu and others.. $300-500 per motor is a lot of money, for me anyway... So I'll just have to ghetto it with Leopard lol!

  5. #35
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    I would say based on the above statements that what the ESC's are seeing is voltage sag. You can help this with shorter wire, better connectors, better batteries, and lastly a cap bank. 5mm connectors are not really up to snuff for a 4092 Leopard. I run Castle 6.5's
    In my experiences the move from 4082 to 4092 definitely results in amp draw increases.

    The Seaking ESC must be sensitive as stated to see 2.8(or whatever voltage it reads at that setting), it may be reading it for a millisecond. Reading the battery when the boat is in likely is not what the ESC was reading. The battery would recover from the sag quite quick.

    Shawn

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    I would say based on the above statements that what the ESC's are seeing is voltage sag. You can help this with shorter wire, better connectors, better batteries, and lastly a cap bank. 5mm connectors are not really up to snuff for a 4092 Leopard. I run Castle 6.5's
    In my experiences the move from 4082 to 4092 definitely results in amp draw increases.

    The Seaking ESC must be sensitive as stated to see 2.8(or whatever voltage it reads at that setting), it may be reading it for a millisecond. Reading the battery when the boat is in likely is not what the ESC was reading. The battery would recover from the sag quite quick.

    Shawn
    another possible good call....when reading the temps immediately after I experienced a momentary shutdown to see what I could find..... was the motor to ESC connectors were the hottest parts in the boat, only 124F but still the hottest I will upgrade to 6.5
    cheers

  7. #37
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    update on wonky seaking 180a ESC

    well after lowering the LVC to 2.8 it finally started working well .......it worked well for 10 more runs and totally quit for good on a 4s run, given they have a rep for incorrect LVC I just couldnt blow that much money on another seaking 180a....I ordered a swordfish 220a with data logger

  8. #38
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    i had this same issue with my hobbyking 180 esc, it was mentioned i should try and not use the built in bec and run a seperate receiver battery as others have had this issue and the fix was the use of a seperate external power source.

  9. #39
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    I took advice to buy the seaking esc from several members posting advice on forums as to what esc to buy for up to 6s useage
    so I didnt read the reviews from amazon where I bought it .....but I am contacting the seller about a warranty mine is dead after 30 days
    and all the reviews of this product suck...caveat emptor
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    edit: I sent in an rma request to hobbywing telling them I believe the esc is now stuck in LVC mode and wont power the motor ....and they too said the esc didnt sound like it was behaving well and set me up with an rma repair replace form
    we shall see......
    Last edited by MadProps; 08-14-2017 at 06:40 PM.

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