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Thread: Stickered Popeye

  1. #31

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    That looks like a good way to go, I been using water proof foam tape that has been pretty good so far.

  2. #32
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    Yes, that works too. Note that the foam rubber will break down over time, allowing leaks. Need to change that out from time to time...

  3. #33

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    I installed the 4075 1750kv and ran on 5s, I got 54 out of it but still needs some tunning. I had X445 or M545 on it for the fastest pass, the Y547 bogged it down but like I said, it's still running too wet. I believe the turn fin is keeping the bow planted (it's not stock) so I've ordered a .20 from ML Boatworks.

  4. #34

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    Try adjusting the turn fin so it more parallel to the hull when they have too much angle back they pull the nose down. Also what make is the 4075 motor? 1750kv on 6s should swing the y547 no problem they were running that that prop on 4074 2200kv motor and 4s with good temps
    Last edited by Newboater; 08-05-2017 at 09:43 AM.

  5. #35

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    This is the current angle
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Insanity Plea View Post
    This is the current angle
    When looking at it try rotating it counter clockwise a few degrees and retest it. Hydro set ups can ne difficult with turn fin

  7. #37
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    The strut depth is usually set at the same distance as the back of the sponsons. That's the starting point. Then if still running wet on the sponsons, move up very slightly, like 0.050" at a time. Make sure strut angle is neutral. I ended up with about 1 degree positive angle on strut. That's the back of the prop facing up. When you say running wet, do you mean too hard on the sponsons or dragging the tail?

  8. #38

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    I've made some adjustments, going to run it this afternoon and will get a pic or video.

  9. #39

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    Yea, boyz... she's dancing on the water now! I had dropped the strut a little bit this past week but I think what really made a difference was rotating that turn fin. Thanks for the advice guys, got 57 out of it according to gps, running a m545.

  10. #40

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    Hey Guy's,

    I am new here in this forum. i have a question on your Set up's.
    ok so the Power of a SSS4074 Motor is about 2.4 kW, if you run a 4S package there are available 15V, with a 150a ESC you only can use 2.25 kW. normally i think für spped-turns of 2 min the target must be 110% so for an 4074 the target must be 2.7kW, so you need an 180A ESC, right?

    so why are you using only 90%?

    anyway; i learned, the need of 4W / kg weight an Vmax (km/h). so if we use the SSS4074/2000kV we have 30.ooo 1/min with a m545 you can reach about 97.2 km/h - so for that speed (5kg for the boat), you need only 1.944W. so why do you use that set-ups?

    please help me to understand.

    I think the 3674 3200kV in use on 3S/4S with the same prop would be a good set up. for 110/150 km/h (68/93 mls/h)
    and for larger PROP's i would like to use a 3684-2600kV motor.

    so thx for your answeres

  11. #41
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    Your math is correct. However, predicting the actual power draw of any given setup is a very difficult thing. So experience tells us how much power you need to push a given boat a given speed. Every motor has two power specifications, 1) Continuous Power - power you can run continuously, given adequate cooling and 2) Max Power - power that can be used on an intermittent basis.

    I research a hull, find out what others have used. Once a motor is decided, I put in enough battery and ESC to run Max Power, using equations similar to your post. Here's my thinking: Continuous power is when the boat is hooked up good, no prop cavitation. Max power comes into play when the prop cavitates, rough water conditions, then hooks up again. Under these conditions, a large power spike is encountered. If the power spike is too high, I prop down a step. And obviously if Continuous power is too high, I either prop down or select a higher power motor, because I didn't estimate the required power correctly. I run hydros, so this response is geared mainly to that type of hull, but generally, it applies to all speed boats. On a hydro, I make no power conclusions until my hull is riding high and free, since this impacts the Continuous power greatly. So strut, rudder and turn fin need to be at their best settings.

  12. #42

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    I keep my calculations simple and test on the water vs running on paper.
    Running rpm between 30k-35k
    (5s)18.5v X 1750kv = 32,375rpm
    Start off with a 40mm-42mm prop and check temps until I'm running around 115-120 degrees.
    A raider 150 has been a pretty tough unit for me for props up to 45mm on a full battery cycle, it's taken some larger props for quick speed runs but I prefer to go in circles.

    Don't get me wrong, calculations are great to get a rough idea but we all know what our options are to use. This is my opinion, if you want to run 40-45mph a 120 is sufficient on 4s, a 150 can handle 50-60mph on 5s, and a 180 should be plenty to get you to the limit of the hull on 6s. My conclusions are based on the 29"-32" hull, lower the kv when increasing prop size.

  13. #43

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    ok thank ypu for your Answer,

    so for a boat running long turns for many minutes we only use 90%, in case of uning the 10% on bad weather etc. if we build up a hull for some second tunrs i use more than 100% power,
    thats what i understand, sorry i am german, so my english is not well.

    i had some experiences in some kinds of huls, but i like the hydro most. U-1, u-9, u-75

    br

  14. #44
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    Not sure what you mean by 90%.. Are you talking throttle? I run my hydros at 100% throttle, straights and turns. If I want less power draw and speed, I prop down. For comparison, I use a 150A on 8s in a 34" hydro. I "control" my amps by proper prop and hull tuning. I datalog everything, so I tune to a power spec. I'm running a motor that can run continuos power of 3.3kw, max power of 4.5kw, so I datalog to get a hooked up current of 3300/29.4=112A. All hydros will cavitate in rough water, so I check my max amps (amp spikes on the graph) and want to generally see 4500/29.4=153A, well within the capabilities of my Sword Fish 150a, which has a burst amp rating (1sec) of 180a. I think I use numbers more than most, and it seems you are a numbers guy. Just remember to verify your numbers thru data logging! But actual amp draws vs. props is done thru experience and verification.

  15. #45

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    How do you like your Popeye Hydro? I'm New to Rc Boats I'm "wet behind the ears"
    I'm looking into buying a Popeye Hydro as soon as Offshore electrics get them back in stock. Since I've never had a Hydro buying a Popeye Hydro am I Biting off more than I can Chew? For my 1st Hydro I appreciate any Input & suggestions. Right now I've been this year out on the Lake with my Proboat Recoil 17 Thanks Boggy63

  16. #46

    Default Good popeye

    Hi, sorry i am German, and my English ist Not well.

    Ok i like my popeye, i have replaced the 3660 Motor by a 3684 i think it is a 2300kv.
    Then i replaced the esc by a hobbyking HV180 Marine.
    Driving This boat with 4S LiPo. It will run over 100 km/h

    Br

  17. #47
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    A 3660 or 3684 is a pretty small motor for the Popeye. It can easily take a 4082... To address Boggy63, this is a fast boat! It will be a handful for you for for quite a few outings. I started my FE experience with a Vortex34, after contemplating a UL-1 for quite some time. I’m not sorry for my purchase, but I have since picked up a UL-1 and I can tell you, I should have started with this boat, which is a solid 50mph performer. I crashed my Vortex because it’s Speed was over my driving skills. Ultimately it’s up to you, but I really wished I would have parked my “lust for speed” and developed my driving skills before getting a high performance boat.

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