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Thread: Stuffing tube

  1. #31
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    I'm not sure what the wall thickness is on that tubing... it's not as tough as brass. To be safe, stick with brass. There are many hobby shops on line that carry it.

    BTW, way to go on the Dremel purchase! I just made up a 0.150" flex shaft to 3/16" prop shaft assembly. Used mine to cut the ends, sure works great!

  2. #32
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    Same thickness as brass tube 😛

  3. #33
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    IMG_1589 2.jpg

    Is this right? Now the tube is all the way into the stinger.

  4. #34
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    You need the bearing system for the prop shaft in the stinger. The stuffing box just needs to go in about 1/4" and sealed off from water penetration. Are you using roller bearings, floating bushing or pressed fit bushings in the stinger for the prop shaft? I've done them all, and like press fit teflon coated bushings and use 3 of them. Get two of them as far to the ends as you can and put the third in between them.

  5. #35
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  6. #36
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    Dobyou have pictures of the systems you mention?

  7. #37
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    I posted pics on a floating bushing about a week ago. I don't have bearing pics, but that post had pics that someone posted of bearings and where to get them...

  8. #38
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    I feel like a noob now... What is actually a bearing? Do i have to use it? I tought the struts i bought from OSE where ready to be mounted on the bost... no need for modifications.

  9. #39
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    Search for a thread called Strut Bushings.. Good stuff!

  10. #40
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    So i can cut the stuffing tube where the hull ends?

  11. #41
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    Found the thread. Looks nice! I think i will just mount the struts and dont use bushings... what can go wrong? Why do you use bushings?

  12. #42
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    I checked your part number, it comes pre-installed with lead-teflon bushings, the same I'm running, so you're good. Just put the stuffing box in about 3/16-1/4", seal the stinger to the transom with silicone and you're done!

  13. #43
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    Thanks for all the help Craig! Really appreciate it. As you can ser im kinda new to this... i will put the stuffing tube 3/16-1/4 outside the hull and the seal it.

    Thanks again!

  14. #44
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    Kristian, remember to de-burr the stuffing tube inside and out. Get all that cutting debris off of there. It can get into the grease and cause excessive wear. Clean everything real good on final assembly! I use acetone on a rag to get parts cleaned.

  15. #45
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    IMG_1594.jpg

    Is this right then?

  16. #46
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    The stinger has to be flush with the transom, so if all that goop around the stuffing box isn't soft, you'll have to clean it up before mounting the stinger. I assume this pic was taken with the sealant just applied and the stingers ready to go on. Nice boat! I hope your ready for that, because she's going to be a handful! Looks like a zipper!

  17. #47
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    Hehe thanks! The stuffing tube is already glued in place 😊 Stinger will flush!

  18. #48
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    IMG_1604.jpgIMG_1605.jpgIMG_1607.jpg

    Almost done! Just some adjustments and watercooling left :)

  19. #49
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    Sweet! I want one!!

  20. #50
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    Kram - why did you mount those motors so far forward?

  21. #51
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    Because i used som motor mounts where the angle of the flex cable would be too much... The motors are mounted like 10cm more to the back than the stock setup 😛 Pretty happy now so dont judge! Hehe

  22. #52
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    Tried the boat now.. Fast as hell!

    One stinger got pretty hot... i greased the cable alot but i cant figure out what the problem is. I only ran the bot for like 5min to test it. Should not be that hot!

  23. #53
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    Usually the stinger is not on center to the stuffing box. This causes the flex shaft to rub the stuffing tube. Also, check that there is enough grease in the strut, for the prop shaft to strut bushings. And, make sure you are using the right flex shaft on the appropriate side. You need a left turn flex shaft on the left side and a right turn flex shaft on the right. Stingers are water cooled, so something is very wrong for it to be so warm after pulling in out of the water.

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigP View Post
    Stainless Steel ... It is much harder to bend. Don't even think about it unless you have a hand-help tube bender with 1/4" rolling wheels installed in the tool. I hope that helps...
    I had to revisit this comment after getting some stainless tubing for one of my boats. Have you worked with it to pass that comment? I found it extremely easy to bend by hand on a 10" radius wood block. . It bent up a lot nicer than brass tubes.

  25. #55
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    Yes, I had it installed and ran about 15-20 sessions on it... I was trying to bend by hand. I didn't have a 15" radius, which was my goal. I took it out because the clearance was too tight and it was pumping all the grease out the strut very quickly. It forms a very efficient screw type pump.

  26. #56
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    What ss tube were you using?

  27. #57
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    The 1/4" available at OSE. It says it has a 0.028" wall thickness. That's 0.012" thicker than the brass. So, 0.024" across the diameter. I tried sanding down the 3/16" flex shaft to make it a little less of a pump, but to now avail. Went back to a copper tube and the additional clearance stopped the excessive pumping action.

    Note, I have a lip seal on the back of my strut to stop grease leakage altogether. It was still pumping grease past that seal! Now, no loss and no water. I only need to service the flex shaft about every 15 runs or so. If you stop the water from coming in and the grease from going out, it is a very stable system.

  28. #58
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    Oh. I bought .055" wall ss tube. Not from OSE.

  29. #59
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    Oh man, does the flex shaft even fit?

  30. #60
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    And that was easy to bend you say? I guess I gotta hit the gym!

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