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Thread: Challenger 43

  1. #31
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    Hi Charlie,

    In my opinion, the Seaking V3 is the best ESC that you could find for endurance use, with a 12S set up: waterproof, very easy to program with the card, reliable, and not expensive. It's a 2 years experience.

    I personally use a receiver pack. I do not like external BEC. For me, the separate battery pack is the best solution: reliable and simple.

    One last pic to tempt you... 197A1716_JPG_db14bfdb3be8032c8d811b62e40dbf55.jpg

  2. #32
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    Thanks for your input Fred. It appears that other members in the ESC forum agree with the use of a separate receiver pack - so that will be my set up also. Since you have experience with the SK 130A HV V3, I wanted your thoughts also. The $181 (US) SK HV ESC is not something I want to replace should the external CC BEC fail. I like the convenience of an internal BEC with an arming switch, but don't want to fry my electronics. Do you use an inline power on-off switch with the receiver pack, or do you plug it into the receiver each time you run your boat. Awesome pic by the way!

    Charlie

  3. #33
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    Hi Charlie
    I will second Fred on the separate receiver battery. I use a trackstar switch in my setup. Any on/off switch is sufficient. Turn on rec., then arm esc, and yes you plug in batts and the use the SK plug with resistor in line to arm esc.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  4. #34
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    Thanks for your input Peter. I was reading information from other members in the ESC forum that indicated a significant amount of CC external HV BEC failures. These failures would result in the main battery voltage jumping through the BEC into the RX circuit - frying RX's and servos. It was my assumption that the spike voltage could also fry the ESC throttle circuit via the attached RX cable.

    The ESC power shut off switch is also important to me in that it allows me to safely arm or disarm my boat's ESC while the boat is carried to and from the water. As a rule my main battery pack connector plug is difficult to plug into or unplug from the ESC power plug unless the boat is firmly resting in its cradle - on the shore. Thanks for the advice about the Trackstar Power Switch. I was wondering if the Trackstar Power Switch is somewhat water resistant as is typical with the SK ESC's equipped with BEC circuit switches.

    Charlie

  5. #35
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    Think «*!**simple*!**»...On/off switch is ok......I also use an external safety cut off loop, with anti Sparks....Very Nice and secure during test phases if you want to change a prop, for example...And last but not least, during races if your boat has troubles....

  6. #36
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    Thanks for the input Fred. My boat will be used from time to time used in brackish water, so I'm not too thrilled with the idea of an external power loop. My idea is to keep the water out of my boat as much as possible and keep my electronics as dry as possible. I've had some hard luck in the past with damp electronics - especially the ESC to RX throttle cable servo connector plugs. Nothing quite as embarrassing as a FE boat going in reverse in slow speed loops with the rear deck plunging under like a submarine. Thank goodness for positive floatation foam in the bow of my HK Pursuit. It's happen to me twice (in fresh water ponds) and both times the bow of the Pursuit has stayed afloat long enough to be rescued by my kayak. So my motto is to have no hull or deck penetrations other than cooling water hose fittings, a steering linkage tube boot, a well epoxied drive shaft tube and of course - plenty of hatch tape around the cockpit joint.

    Charlie

  7. #37
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    Hi Charlie
    I use a safety loop as part of the circuit. The loop is glued into the hull deck so does not leak. It can be protected against salt or brackish water with dielectric grease on the plugs. The safety loop is just there to isolate the main power pack in the event of a rescue or when retrieving the boat. I used a trackstar switch because I had one, it is mounted inside the hull (on top of my steering servo). I also waterproofed it, because it is possible for things to go wrong!
    Also set the failsafe options on your radio, that way if you lose signal or turn off your tx if things go wrong then the esc will shut down.
    Have a Merry Christmas.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
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  8. #38
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    Hello Fred,

    Thanks for the info about the safety loop.

    I just received delivery of my Challenger 43 hull with classic deck from Aeromarine Laminates on Thursday. The hull came equipped with 5" wide mounting stringers for a gas engine. My question is - did you use the stringers in your boat with an 5" motor mount bracket , or do away with the stringers completely for a traditional motor mount? The reason that I ask is that there does not seem to be enough space to secure the twin 6S 16000 mAh batteries outside the 5" stringers and alongside the motor for a 32 - 34% hull weight trim distribution. Also how far forward of the transom did you mount your TP 4070 motor? It appears from the profile of the stringers, that the gas boys mount their engines quite a bit forward of where a traditional FE motor mount is located. Did you use manufactured battery mounts for securing your batteries or just plain Velcro strips glued directly to the hull. I would love to see a pictures of the inside layout of your boat.

    Charlie

  9. #39
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    The stringers make the hull stronger . All my boats utilize stringers especially Aeromarine hulls as they are “apart of its structural integrity “... keep the stringers if at all possible with your battery investment and all
    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
    --Albert Einstein

  10. #40
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    Hi Charlie,
    No stringer In my hull. You can find a picture of my boat In the first page. The beginning of the shaft is 13,5 cm away from the transom...In my opinion you can’t find a good batteries position with the stringers, especially with 6S 16000 mah batteries.

  11. #41
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    Thanks for the information Fred.

    Steve from OSE indicated that the typical Challenger 43 set up for FE does not come with the 5" rails. I know the lighter construction Osprey and other FE's in this size don't have stringers either. I assume the current stock of (sale price) Challenger 43's from Aeromarine are set up for gas engines. I will carefully remove the stinger rails and use OSE's quick change motor mounts for the 4070 TP motor. This arrangement should allow a good amount of space for the twin 6S 16000 Lipo's and provide for the correct weight trim distribution.

    Charlie

  12. #42
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    Hi Charlie
    You can cut out the stringers and do a layer of carbon through the bottom of the hull. That is what I have done on my current build. Last year I did a carbon inlay on the Osprey as well, it puts a lot of strength into the hull which is needed to support the battery weight.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  13. #43
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    Hi Peter,

    The extra carbon or Kevlar bottom layer in the hull sounds like a good idea after removing the stringers. I will give Chris at Fine Design a call and see what he does with his FE Challenger 43 hulls. He lists the Challengers as light weight electrics, so I'm inclined to think that he add little or no extra layers of glass in the bottom of his boats. However, running a Challenger for speed with a pair of 5000 - 6000 mAh Lipo's is a lot less weight and hull load as compared to a endurance boat using a pair of 16000 mAh Lipo's.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by tebby2 View Post
    Hi Peter,

    The extra carbon or Kevlar bottom layer in the hull sounds like a good idea after removing the stringers. I will give Chris at Fine Design a call and see what he does with his FE Challenger 43 hulls. He lists the Challengers as light weight electrics, so I'm inclined to think that he add little or no extra layers of glass in the bottom of his boats. However, running a Challenger for speed with a pair of 5000 - 6000 mAh Lipo's is a lot less weight and hull load as compared to a endurance boat using a pair of 16000 mAh Lipo's.
    Hi Charlie
    I'll let you in on a little secret I have discovered. Weight in the boat is not your enemy! There is no down side to adding in a decent extra layer of carbon or glass. It is better to have a strong hull and with endurance you are only looking for speeds in the 65-75 kph range. My Osprey weighed in at 9kg with 10s 16000mah and ran slightly faster than with 5000mah packs. I suspect my new boat will come in at over 11kg. I will know in a couple of weeks as I am putting it together ATM. Just started gluing the motor mount in. Hardware is on, I should start taking some pics I guess!
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter A View Post
    Hi Charlie
    I'll let you in on a little secret I have discovered. Weight in the boat is not your enemy! There is no down side to adding in a decent extra layer of carbon or glass. It is better to have a strong hull and with endurance you are only looking for speeds in the 65-75 kph range. My Osprey weighed in at 9kg with 10s 16000mah and ran slightly faster than with 5000mah packs. I suspect my new boat will come in at over 11kg. I will know in a couple of weeks as I am putting it together ATM. Just started gluing the motor mount in. Hardware is on, I should start taking some pics I guess!
    This in my experience is very true. Weight doesn’t seem to matter on a boat once on plane and kept there. Getting it there and on/off plane is what will use battery up. This shouldn’t be an issue at moderate speeds.

  16. #46
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    Hi Peter

    Thanks for your input, and be looking forward to seeing pics of your new boat. Are you building another Osprey hull or something different?

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by tebby2 View Post
    Hi Peter

    Thanks for your input, and be looking forward to seeing pics of your new boat. Are you building another Osprey hull or something different?
    No it is an AB Marine Intimidator 46" hull. My ultimate preference would be a Aeromarine Challenger 48, but sort of like hens teeth to get one either here or to here in NZ.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
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  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter A View Post
    No it is an AB Marine Intimidator 46" hull. My ultimate preference would be a Aeromarine Challenger 48, but sort of like hens teeth to get one either here or to here in NZ.
    I really like that hull...very good choice In my opinion......

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  21. #51
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    Hello Fred

    Great pictures of your boat in action. Looks like pretty rough seas with 6" - 8" waves. Your boat seems to be running fairly light on that stiff chop. Are you using two 16,000mAh 6s batteries? What was the speed of your boat in those rough seas?

    Charlie

  22. #52
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    Yes, 12S 16000 mah...and X457 prop...Detongued. No GPS that particular day, but fast enough for these conditions...

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by fred 75 View Post
    Yes, 12S 16000 mah...and X457 prop...Detongued. No GPS that particular day, but fast enough for these conditions...
    Yuuup, anything over 30mph in that is silly. Oh but so much fun!!

  24. #54
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    "And that's the way aha aha I like it"!
    So much fun in rough water.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  25. #55
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    Hi Peter,

    ...rough water is super fun...It also improves your driving skills...( very sad to read your thread......I think that everybody here has met that kind of moments...Keep the faith...)

    First race of the season, next sunday...

  26. #56
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    Hi Fred
    Thanks for the sympathy, it was my own fault though. I am just about to order the new motor. BTW what program card are you using on your esc? My existing one the I use on other Turnigy/Seaking esc's doesn't work at all, neither does a generic Turnigy one.

    Good luck with your first race. Ours is April 13 on our Pond.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  27. #57
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    I’am using the Hobbywing one ( It works for my 120 A, 180 A and 130 HV HW ESC)...the only one that I have...392A25F9-BA2A-4F93-9BC3-FCD670AAAF63.jpg

  28. #58
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    Mmmm I have the same, but it does not light up on the 130 hv. Maybe I've been doing it wrong? I will try again when I get my new motor. I have previously set it up manually, but following the beeps is nutty!
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

  29. #59
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    HW 130 HV.pdf

    Hi Peter,

    Maybe, it will help you…
    Last edited by fred 75; 03-14-2019 at 06:57 AM.

  30. #60
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    Thanks Fred
    I'll give it a try when I get the new motor.
    NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
    2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
    BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

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