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Thread: 1/10 Baby Bootlegger Build

  1. #31
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    Thanks Doug. You make me feel SOOOO much better :sarcastic: :D It's good to build, especially with the carrot that's dangling!


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    Before I could sand everything, I had to trim them to fit. I did this by using a 3" long blade as a drawknife. To do this properly, you need to watch what the grain is doing. I was only able to do a little over half the length of the hull from each direction. I turned the boat around to do the other end. It is important to trim the deck sheer also, because you will be planking there as part of the sides. Don't try planking the deck though - just the sides and bottom with it on the building board.


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    After I trimmed them, I sanded. First I did the sides using a standard 12" block sander. The bottom (shown in the picture) was done with a sander I got several years ago for drywall. I don't know what it's called, but it has a permanent grit about 200 or so, and is made of a flexible foam. I used it because I could sand the concave hull bottom without damaging it as a hard block sander would do.


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    After you're satisfied with that you get to start the time-consuming part - planking. This underplanking is easy - if things don't fit perfectly it's not a big deal. However, I urge you to learn as much about planking as you can - you're going to have a lot more difficult time when putting on the mahogany. You want it to be nice, remember!

    Note that the bow pieces are twisting and appear to be shingling. They aren't, really. The wood is being beveled and tapered in two directions, and the thickness makes it look like they aren't smooth. That's because they aren't. With the underplank you can do this, then sand smooth. Here is where you should take your time.

    By the way, when fitting the pieces are do the bow taper first (starting between bulkheads A and B). You don't need to be too precise on where the bow pieces end, either now or later. That's because the edge will get a metal cover over it.


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    You'll want to make the transom look better when doing the final planking. Note also how the planking extends way past bulkhead H. This will be trimmed later also.

    I was very liberal with pins. I probably won't use quite so many when dong mahogany.

    For the next few days all I'll be doing is planking. The bottom is done with 1/2" wide planks. I'll keep you posted on what I use as I go along.

    Andy

  2. #32
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    that is awesome and it not even finished
    Failure is the First step to SUCCESS

  3. #33
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    Great work, Andy. Probably feels prety good again building a boat.

    Keep them coming as you progress. I will have you some hardware for your other soon.

  4. #34
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    How's it coming Andy?

    Doug
    TOY BOAT RACER
    IMPBA Dist.13 Director
    IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
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    NAMBA 1169

  5. #35
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    I'm still working on the planking - this is the boring part, not much to show. Last night I pulled a zillion pins out of it.

    Most of my time I'm concentrating on an electronics project to help a friend in a bind right now. When that finishes and I finish a magazine article then it will be top priority again.

    Thanks for asking.

    Andy
    Spektrum Development Team

  6. #36
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    Jan 2009
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    gr
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    Default BB

    Hallo Andy

    We (me and my son) are building the same boat and we are very glad we found your pictures and info/tips it saved us a lot of time trouble headache and tears :)

    Can you tell us something about the powersystem your putting in ?

    And we are anciously waiting for the next part.

    Greetings

    Robert and Gabriel from Holland

  7. #37
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    It will likely have a Proboat BJ26 system in it. The ESC is Proboat part number PRB3309 and the motor is PRB3310.

    I will be posting more pictures in a couple weeks. I have had 3 high-priority ($$) projects to do, and the last should be done in about 2 weeks.

    The key when you get to planking is patience. Just do a little every day.

    Andy
    Spektrum Development Team

  8. #38
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    May 2008
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    I've got the hull finished and am looking at motors and drive train options. Do you think the Englishman's plan for these elements is still a good option with todays more affordable BL motors?
    If you go with the blackjack system are you going to use the out drive and prop also.
    His rudder set up is very unusual.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by woody5; 05-10-2009 at 10:20 AM. Reason: pictures

  9. #39
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    Any ideas on how to make the front cutwater? I tried soft brass, but the curve is too complex... the aft one was ok, will post some pics. I am now thinking to cheat and do it in ABS painted brass...

  10. #40
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    May 2008
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    If you want to plate the ends in chrome the stainless self adhesive Duct tape is an easy answer. That tape is sold at most hardware stores here in Florida. You could paint the area of trim with metalic bronze or brass paint and then apply a coat of laminating resin to make it more durable. My hobby shop in town carries brass that is thin enough to make a scale cut water you would have to silver solder it and form the shape with a jewlers hammer. It would look real nice secured to your bow and stern with pin heads as nails. I am going to leave the cutwaters off to expose the laminated ends, I think they are to pretty to cover up!
    Have you any ideas on how to make the G5?

  11. #41
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    Aug 2008
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    looks great!!!!!!!!!
    SUPERVEE 27 37'' TWIN CAT

  12. #42
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    For the G5: I will either order a custom decal or, because I have one , use my cutter/plotter (roland Stika SV12) on a sheet of thin self adhesive vinyl and use the negative as a template for gold paint... I am now working on an upgrade to a cheap toy cat for the holidays, but next week I will finish the Bootlegger... hopefully take her out on the water.

  13. #43
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    Got the first run with it, just lovely. I f you push it, it will go like a dream...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euEeULXYn4c

  14. #44
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    Second run, much better, but still need to fins a decent prop. It now runs on a 3 blade 32mm Graupner...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LgIxaLFb8E

  15. #45
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    alright we need pictures of all the details especially the hardware.

    Looks great

    JIm
    "Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone – except God.”
    Billy Graham

  16. #46
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    Motor: brushed Permax 600
    ESC: Graupner 50A
    Batt: 8.4 4300 mAh
    Prop: 3 blade Graupner J (not very good though...)
    Driveshaft, rudder as per plans.

    Will post pics later.

  17. #47
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    Aug 2007
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    NS
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    Andy,

    For plank on frame I always prefer cascamite - water based resin glue. Aerolite would work as well. Not sure if they are still available. I Found that the Aliphatic glue will still release if it is kept damp or wet. A coat of epoxy will sort that.

    For the planks the hull will only deform if you plank all one side and push the planks in to place. agood hull normally does not need that though. A tip is to measure the plank width you will use and at the hulls fattest point - mark those spacings. on each former measure the surface and divide by the number of planks - generally you can rough taper a plank and tidy up when it is in place. For absolute accuracy you will need to look closely at the original pics.

    If the planks "run out" then do not force them but put a fillet in. I used a small zip type plane back then - now I have a french one that uses stanley blades and it is great. Save the sawdust for filler - mix with the glue - at the right consistency it will disappear.

    I'd love a pic when you are done. My website (as you know) does not have a suitable pic. This is next on my list to kit.

    Looking very nice.

    Allan
    www.astecmodels.co.uk 100+ pages of FE info and products

  18. #48
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    Hi Allan,

    I haven't been working on it this winter. Some other stuff came up in the electronics area plus I'm working on an entry for scale at the AMA Nationals this summer.

    As it's not intended to be run much if at all, the glue won't be a big deal. Besides, as you mentioned, it will be sealed in epoxy internally. Externally I haven't decided yet, probably 3/4 oz glass and finishing resin with lots of elbow grease.

    Andy
    Last edited by AndyKunz; 02-02-2010 at 10:08 AM. Reason: insert "AMA"
    Spektrum Development Team

  19. #49
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    Ah - did not read the date!! I found the link through tracking hits on my site - You just have to finish it!! There are some nice builds in Europe. You need one in the home country
    www.astecmodels.co.uk 100+ pages of FE info and products

  20. #50
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    May 2008
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    Finished my BB with a swap shop special speed 700 $20 new and a proboat blue 50 amp esc. Nice scale + speed with an 11.2 2200mha lipo. Hand made cooling coil and brush hoods no cooling issues from the low end components. I used a Granpinger black plastic resin prop 40mm X 55mm. The boat proposes alot a speed maybe trim tabs would help but is it worth it? I think in retrospect that a surface prop mounted right behind the step would have been better than the fully submersed wheel.
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    Last edited by woody5; 05-02-2010 at 11:04 AM.

  21. #51
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    Beware of that prop if it is subsurface. Max 35mm on a 700.

    Allan
    www.astecmodels.co.uk 100+ pages of FE info and products

  22. #52
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    How did you remove the patterns after using the 3M 77 adhesive ?

  23. #53
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    uh...you peel them off. 3M77 is more of a tack than a glue, unless you are working with paper on paper.

  24. #54
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    Thank you. I have never used 77, and the directions don't explain it very well.

  25. #55
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    Hi! Excuse me. It was a great construction. I would have liked to see the ship sailing. Greetings.

  26. #56
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    This is an 11-year-old thread. To whom are you asking the question? The OP hasn’t been back to the forum in three months.


    .
    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


  27. #57
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    BA
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    Hi, sorry. I am working on the same boat. Greetings.

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