This is the first time I hear that it subs when trying to take off. One of the purposes of the ride pad design is to prevent this and we have not had any issues with it subing other than when trying to take off slow. The boat should jump on plane as soon as you hit the throttle, full pin.
Here, see the boat run, stop, and take off with no issues. This is on 6s with the CCW prop from the Zelos 36 (X442).
https://youtu.be/VbGvYRecbI0
Rafael Lopez
Product Developer-Pro Boat
My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751
If this is the same Andy I am thinking about, I talked to him on the phone and gave him some advice that should help him get going. I'm waiting to hear back from him, but I'm sure it's not going to be the boat but rather an engine tuning issue. We'll get him going either way. :)
Rafael Lopez
Product Developer-Pro Boat
My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751
Nice sponsons! They look like they're laid out flat. Can't tell how low the riser angle is, but it certainly isn't extreme like the other RTR's out there. Nice work Darin!
We tried to take off slow(getting to know the boat).. Rookie mistake! You have to give it full throttle to get it up on a plane. Once we figure that out the boats rides like it on rails, unstoppable power and speed, until lipo cut.. This is a awesome boat! I will be ordering one up once available again!
Yes its the same Andy, Thanks for your help with the zelos!
anyone still talking about this boat I could use some help...
Post your question.
Nortavlag Bulc
I have only had this boat for about 4 days and taken it out twice. on both outings it has died after about a 2 min run. the first it took a very long time to get it. the second it was very close to shore. when I got hatch open the esc was in touchable it was so freaking hot. I'm assuming that was why on the first run as well. I guess my question is more of a two part. 1st is does the esc have an overheat protection and that is what is shuting me down? then secondly if this isn't actually capable of a 6s set up wouldn't I be better to get like a turnigy/seaking esc in a 160a or a 180a rather then buying two new 2s batteries. I'm currently running 2 3s 5400 venoms I don't remember the c rating honestly but I run my genesis and kos of them and seem to run no problem till low voltage cut off but different power systems and both have 180a esc ;/
My buddy ran his on 6s right from the start. First run was only 1 minute and just about fried the motor. Pulled the boat out of the water and could smell something burning. Decided to pull the motor and put a Neu 1515 1.5y in so he could run it on 6s. The esc seems to be handling the Neu motor and the boat runs fast but real loose. He also had the flex cable snap on the third run and replaced it with a .187 cable. Ran a few times since then and seemed to run good. He is now playing with turn fins to calm the boat down a bit. I would say they should have just introduced this as a 4s boat only, with the high kv motor 6s is just to much for oval running. He also made a aluminum plate under the motor mount after the stock mound stripped on him. I would love to buy the hull and hardware only and rig my own electronics but buying it part by part just isn't economical.
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Team Liquid Dash
thank you for your reply Raydee. I guess my main frustration stems from the fact that at least in my mind, proboat is an "upscale" r/c company. And when I drop that kind of money for an rtr boat I expect to put batteries in and be able to take it out with out worrying if the boat is gonna make it back to shore. versus buying a kit off say hobby king and piecing it together motor, esc ect. and wondering if I have a good combination for a fast, reliable set up. I need to purchase one maybe two more boats in the next week maybe week and a half and my heart was set on the blackjack 29 but after my experience with this boat I'm wondering if I should just try my luck with a kit and put something together myself. idk maybe I'm asking to much from them :/
I am having to:
Replace shaft
replace fin
and find lipos that will fit under cab.
Ran one outing. FYI
Traxxas Spartan, RCBB Zonda-R, Promarine MTR, Proboat IMP 31 v3, PB UL-19, Bonzai FE 47 Skater
Can't you guys have fun what the stock setup? Stay with 4s maybe sharpen a prop. You can easily get 55 on the stock setup.
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"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy Graham
well that's kind of my issue. I bought this boat with the understanding that it could be ran stock with 6s. I have a couple of paris of 3s batts which is why I went with this boat when I seen on website and the box that it could be ran stock on 6s. and clearly that is not the case. so now I'm a little pissy lol
Did you READ the manual?? It states the VERY SPECIFIC conditions under which you can "safely" run 6S...
Most of those of us who are experienced with RC Boats in general, KNOW you don't use a 2000KV motor on 6S for anything other than a pair of very brief straight-line passes. The manual clearly states this for the UL-19...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Nobody reads manuals.....
Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
Directly from the manual, took me all of 2 minutes to look up.
"The included electronics are rated for 2S–6S LiPo
batteries; however, running the stock propeller nonstop
on a 6S battery could overheat your electronics or
damage your batteries. If you run the stock propeller on
6S, we recommend using full throttle on straight line
passes only. Return passes should be at half throttle
to reduce the heat of the electronics. If you want to
run 6S nonstop, use optional propellers (PRB282006 or
PRB282027)."
"The included propeller provides the best performance
between 4S (14.8V) and 5S LiPo (18.5V). 5S configuration
can be achieved by mounting a 3S LiPo battery
(DYNB3811EC) on the left side of the boat and a 2S LiPo
battery (DYNB3810EC) on the right side of the boat.
The added weight of the 3S battery on the left side will
counteract torque twist caused by the propeller spinning
at high RPM."
I hate to say it but some people don't look past the advertisement of it running on 6s and since car, plane and heli guys have 3s packs all around and few if any 4s packs, you get this myopic reading of manuals. With the exception of boats there aren't that many RC vehicles running on 4s and I say this in reflection to what is offered many places for battery selection. Hobby King has far less 4s pack selections than 2s or 3setc. Other shops are similar.
It makes it harder these days to buy budget cells in 4s.
Rant over. Darin spelled out the issue.
Nortavlag Bulc
my most sincere apologies to everyone here. I did not know there was a revised manual online. in the manual that came with the boat that section that was quoted above is not there. no where in my manual is that stated. I have read several times. I'm guessing it was revised and put online after the boat was launched. I did not mean to offend darin or anyone else with my post for help with overheating issues. I would think a simple " yes there will be heating issues with the stock prop, we have done some testing and to run consistently on 6s we recommend these two props etc. I did not expect to be belittled here. especially by a rep of the boat company that probably knew that it was revised and not in the customer paper copy that came with the boat. but chose to respond in that way. craigP....I am trying to further my knowledge of these things, I thought it would have been a good place. again I apologize to everyone here. an honest thank you to the others that did post and try to help.
Limited, I have re-read my post and you are right, there is frustration there. For that, I apologize to you and the forum. But the content is dead on. Those of us who have been involved in rc boats for a while get frustrated when new member after new member do the same thing. Disregard stock trim, shoot for the moon, then complain when the outcome is not good. There is so much information on this site. There are the calculators that can guesstimate to an extreme degree of precision what prop, motor and battery will do with a setup.
For us that are serious about this sport, much enjoyment is derived from the "exploration" of a given hull. The finding out, the learning, tweaking, reading and filling out the experience of mastering a hull. Perhaps there will always be this disconnect between folks that just want to drop an RTR in the water and go, and those that what to push lines and experiment. The sport needs them all! Sorry, but you turned out to be the "whipping boy" on this topic, and you didn't deserve that. Bottom line, that's a good boat! It's SO much better that a UL-1. So please try to do some research on stuff you would like to try. If you got questions about the research, we are all in to help, as this site has demonstrated thousands of times. I guess the heat has got us seeing red!
probaot manual.jpg I don't know it its a matter of full manual or if it was changed after the fact. but page 5 online is clearly different then my manual I received with the boat. kind of a mute point now, just didn't want you all to think I'm a bigger jack ass then what some of you probably already do. but clearly it was added after I think
The veles looks like more of a 4s boat. Sure, it CAN run on 6s, but that probably doesn't mean you should be doing wide open oval laps till LV kicks in. My s10 with a 4.8 LSX and a borg s475 can push 20 psi, but I know what the risk is running it at that. Daily drive it on 8 psi and be safe, take it to the track for a couple passes and jack the controller up. My buddy never ran his stock v3 geico on 6s unless it was for a couple SAW passes, he KNEW it would run hot if he did any more than that.
Seems like some marketing bozo threw "6s compatible" in there... the stock motor clearly is not the right speed for 6s. Man, I run a 1250kv in my 8s setup... BTW, it's not the size of the motor that makes it cell compliant, it's the kv. The size comes into play when you run larger props. It kinda looks like to me the stock motor should be a 4072 or equivalent. 36 seems a bit wimpy...
Any initial reconditions. Strut setting, battery placement etc. Mine just came in will be running 4s 5000 50c . Thanks
I don't have that boat, but from the recent posts and discussions, that boat is pretty fast stock. I would start there and see if it's quick enough for you. You can search for the UL-19 and pick up prop info and strut depth on this site. I believe they are setting the strut neutral and the same depth as the back of the sponsons.
The Pro Boat prop has slightly less pitch than the ABC 1716.
ABC 1716 vs Pro Boat 1716 1.jpgABC 1716 vs Pro Boat 1716 2.jpgABC 1716 vs Pro Boat 1716 3.jpgABC 1716 vs Pro Boat 1716 4.jpg
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
Man, huge rake on those props!
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