Managing Connectors

[mikiek]

I'm going to post this here since it is kinda Pro Boat related. I f you think it belongs elsewhere let me know.

This seems rather obvious but I would like to hear some opinions or options. The Zelos 36 is using EC5 connectors for the power side of the ESC and the harness. For that reason I bought batteries, series harnesses and charger adapters all with the EC5 connectors.

As some may know I had to replace the Zelos ESCs so I was doing some shopping around. I noticed many of them come with a different connector type. So how do you deal with that? Seems like either you cut off and replace connectors or you have a set of everything (harnesses, batteries, etc) for each type.

That might even get uglier if I picked up a different boat - say a Traxxas - that has all different connectors.


So how do you manage this?

[Tamelesstgr]

Here is a good video to reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iLR...GHiTUF4VqYPZfg

I learned early that it was better/easier for me to switch over to one style connector for all my batteries and vehicles. Makes charging and swapping much easier. I use Polymax 5.5 bullet connectors which are good to 150 amps.

Another good read you might want to review about Lipos:
https://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

[vinnyp]

I was using 5.5 bullets on my Motley Crew for a while. When I got the new Zelos with the EC5 connectors, I switched everything over to EC5's. They seemed neater to me.

[mikiek]

So Vinny, do you just cut them off and solder the new ones?

I'm getting a little off topic here but, I've asked about hard soldering with a resistance solderer and have not received a reply. Got that for brasswork with my model ships and would never use anything else now. EXCEPT soldering a connector to a battery. For a harness that I can isolate, no problem. Seems a little scary passing an electrical charge thru a wire who's other end is connected to a rather volatile power source Just curious what anyone can tell me about that.

[Tamelesstgr]

That was another thing that drove me nuts was trying to use a soldering iron to do EC3's and XT-60's. I always burned up the plastic. Maybe my soldering iron is garbage, or I'm not patient enough (entirely possible) but I love soldering bullets. I got a hands free jig for under $5 from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html

I stick the bullet in the claw, heat it up with a mini butane torch, melt some solder, put flux in battery or esc wire, stick the wire in the connector, let cool. Then I shrink wrap the connector. Only downfall with bullets is you need to cap them so the ends don't arc on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-yk7PGwFks

[vinnyp]

I have to admit, soldering bullets is easy. I just drilled a few holes in a piece of scrap 2x3. Stood the bullets up in the wood, put the tip of the soldering iron into the bullet, wait until it got hot , melt the solder and drop the wire in. Real easy. I haven't tried to solder the EC5's onto my motley crew yet. I ordered the connectors but they are not here yet.

Mike,
I wouldn't be too worried about soldering directly to the wires on a lipo. Cut the old ends off and solder new ones on. Obviously, just keep the 2 ends from touching. I found it easy to simply tape one end to the battery case. Of course, tape the exposed end of the wire first. I don't know what a resistance solder is. Never heard of that.

[REDLINE1]

Lots of good vids on YouTube for soldering the connectors. Not hard to do

[Tamelesstgr]

Whatever you do, don't cut both leads at the same time. Cut one, work on it, work on the other.

[Erroneous]

Soldering your ec5 connectors should be just like soldering bullets. Solder up your Bullets and snap em in to the housing. These are good.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XQ...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[mikiek]

Whatever you do, don't cut both leads at the same time. Cut one, work on it, work on the other.

You know, that's probably exactly what I would have done

[mikiek]

Resistance soldering is sort of a mini version of arc welding. You have a positive and negative lead usually with pointed tips on the end. You put the points on either side of what you are soldering with a little piece of silver solder on top. Hit the footswitch and an electrical charge is attempted with what you are soldering closing the circuit. This instantly heats the piece and melts the solder. Usually in less than a second. Nice and neat. Great for hard to reach places.

Although as I was saying, is it wise to pass an electrical charge to a wire that is connected to a LiPo? Just wondering if anyone solders this way? For something like a bullets on a harness it would work great. Bullets on a battery, Eehhh.

[fweasel]

I would not use that method on anything electronic related.

[mikiek]

I think I'm with you fweasel. Or at least not on anything that could bite back. Interestingly, resistance soldering is used on a lot of circuit boards.

Looks like I'll have to dust off the soldering iron

[skeeler]

I use Castle Polarized 6.5-mm connectors (rated for 200 A) on all my high-current applications (most boats and cars/trucks). I just change the ESC connector on any RTR I buy. For kits, you have to solder on connectors anyway. Almost all my batts are Maxamps 5450-mAh models. Standardizing allows me to run 2S, 3S, 4S, 5S, or 6S by combining batts in different ways.

[mikiek]

Definitely sounds like sticking to one type is the way to go. I like the EC5s that came with the Zelos and my batteries. Only bad thing is they're not easy to pull apart.

[vinnyp]

I find the EC5's to be easier and neater than 5.5 bullets. I am switching everything to them. I just got a 10 pack from Amazon today.