Now I understand "Puff"

[mikiek]

Turns out the paint is the same flat finish as what Redline posted. No matter it still looks pretty good. With a little care it could be matched nicely.

Testors number is 1191_RM11911_0711 Flat Sunflower.

[mikiek]

Got the z-boat out for a few quick laps this evening. She's still running slow as molasses, especially out of the hole. I recalibrated but that didn't help. I was going to try to reset the programming (don't have a card yet) but I could not get the ESC into program mode. Every time I try it just starts a series of quick beeps that don't stop until I let off the throttle.

Question - the instructions are not real clear on this. They say turn on transmitter, hold at full throttle, plug the battery in and wait for some beeps. Is this right? If it is, it is not working. And it is pretty darned hard to hold the transmitter at full throttle (one hand is taken up) and then try to plug the battery in one handed.

[Prodrvr]

Got the z-boat out for a few quick laps this evening. She's still running slow as molasses, especially out of the hole. I recalibrated but that didn't help. I was going to try to reset the programming (don't have a card yet) but I could not get the ESC into program mode. Every time I try it just starts a series of quick beeps that don't stop until I let off the throttle.

Question - the instructions are not real clear on this. They say turn on transmitter, hold at full throttle, plug the battery in and wait for some beeps. Is this right? If it is, it is not working. And it is pretty darned hard to hold the transmitter at full throttle (one hand is taken up) and then try to plug the battery in one handed.

Use a rubber band to hold full throttle.

[vinnyp]

Mike,
Found this on youtube. Maybe it will help a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCoI...e#t=70.2816263

[mikiek]

Thanks Vinny - I've seen most of those. Most show what my boat isn't doing - go fast. I'm beginning to wonder if there is a problem with programming/recalibration. Seems like no matter how I try to get to program mode (the description is different between the Zelos instructions and ESC instructions) I end up with the thing beeping until I let off the throttle. Then it's in normal Run mode.

And it feels like the transmitter is not calibrated. The performance between standing still and full throttle seems very limited. I'm going to put the GPS in and run some laps just so I can provide some numbers for this.

What I really wish was that there was some sort of Ctrl-Alt-Del to reset everything to default.

[vinnyp]

mike,
Something really stupid, which I am certain you are doing, but here goes....... are you setting the throttle trim to center before attempting to calibrate?

[fweasel]

If you haven't ordered one already, the Dynamite programming card makes ESC adjustments infinitely easier and provides more piece of mind in regards to feedback on the adjustments you make.

[mikiek]

Very good question. I am hoping it is something stupid. Yes, it is but that always begs the question how close does it need to be? If a hairs difference can keep it from working right that could still be the problem.

Just went down to the water. Decided maybe I should rebind the receiver. Didn't have a lot of faith that it would fix anything, but it wouldn't hurt. That doesn't work either. The receiver just flashes away but the bind never happens.

Looking like something has gone south between the transmitter and the ESC. That would leave the receiver and harness from that to the ESC. I do have the ESC programming card on the way. Maybe that will tell me something.

[fweasel]

Bring your boat to Chicago. I will fix it.

[mikiek]

Bring your boat to Chicago. I will fix it.

Think of all the new Zelos and UL-19s I could buy for the cost of a plane ticket

[mikiek]

A small win this evening - I finally got a rebind After downloading the instructions for the TX, RX and ESC I see there are some subtle differences in the setup procedures. For instance the Zelos bind instructions say "turn on TX by pressing the bind button". Didn't sound right, didn't work. TX instructions say "turn on TX WHILE pressing the bind button". Big difference! I'm sure that is a "well duh" thing for most of you, but given all I have been thru I'm not gonna stray too far from what the instructions say even if it doesn't sound right.

I still can't get in to program mode. The units just beep continuously. Program card should be here tomorrow. Hopefully that will unlock the ESCs.

[mikiek]

Good news, bad news and bad news. - I got the Dynamite programming card. The settings were all the defaults - probably the only one that matters is timing and that is at 7.5. The boat is still slow. I finally put the GPS in and it clocked at 24.4 mph running on 2 3S batteries in the stock harness. Yes, I understand the boat will be under powered with that but that's how I have been running from the start so I didn't want to change anything.

Even worse (but maybe a clue) today I finally did run with 2 6S batteries (one plugged directly into each ESC) and the speed was not much better - 25.9 mph - probably due to smoother water. So what gives? Twice the voltage and no improvement? After trying to work the boat hard - 8 big laps - the components were all not even warm.

So to recap, after smoking some electronics I have replaced both ESCs and the OOB battery harness. I have replaced both flex shafts. I have checked the programming. I have recalibrated the transmitter. Performance still sucks. Do I replace the motors now?

[oscarel]

Good news, bad news and bad news. - I got the Dynamite programming card. The settings were all the defaults - probably the only one that matters is timing and that is at 7.5. The boat is still slow. I finally put the GPS in and it clocked at 24.4 mph running on 2 3S batteries in the stock harness. Yes, I understand the boat will be under powered with that but that's how I have been running from the start so I didn't want to change anything.

Even worse (but maybe a clue) today I finally did run with 2 6S batteries (one plugged directly into each ESC) and the speed was not much better - 25.9 mph - probably due to smoother water. So what gives? Twice the voltage and no improvement? After trying to work the boat hard - 8 big laps - the components were all not even warm.

So to recap, after smoking some electronics I have replaced both ESCs and the OOB battery harness. I have replaced both flex shafts. I have checked the programming. I have recalibrated the transmitter. Performance still sucks. Do I replace the motors now?

I don't have a Zelos so excuse the questions, just wanting to try and help you out. The stock harness is to series 2 - 3s lipos? If so, that's the same as a single 6s. So I would expect the speeds to be about the same. And you did the calibration procedure? Can you post a picture of the inside so we can see what you have?



ESC CAlIBrATION prOCEDurE
Ensure proper ESC function by calibrating the ESC to your
transmitter inputs.
1.
Power OFF the ESC.
2.
Ensure your transmitter is powered ON, the throttle is
not reversed, the throttle trim is neutral and the throttle
travel range is at 100%. Disable any special functions
such as ABS, etc.
3.
Pull and hold the Throttle Trigger to full throttle and
turn the ESC on.
4.
After 2 seconds a
“-B-B”
will sound. This means the
full throttle position has been confirmed.
5.
Release the throttle trigger to the neutral position, a
steady long
“B––”
will sound. This means the neutral
position has been confirmed.

[Erroneous]

What brand, mah and C rating batteries are you running?

[fweasel]

Do both of your Esc's light up green when you go full throttle? You will see minimal difference between 2 3S batteries and 2 6S batteries. Same voltage, more capacity, ie longer run time.

[mikiek]

oscarel - the part of question 2 regarding throttle travel range got me to look back at the TX instructions. There is a section on setting the travel range. A dumb rookie question but what do they mean by "trigger in full brake position"? Does that mean trigger at rest - i.e. keep your fingers off? OR trigger all the way forward (full reverse)? Never realized you had to program the TX also. I've now gone thru the routine, as best as I understand it. No change.

Engines seem to be running smoothly. Good even tone. No screeching or random noises. The fact that they don't get hot makes me think they're not getting all the juice they could be.

That's why I keep calibrating - it just feels like the throttle is holding back. Not delivering all it could.

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[mikiek]

fweasel - yes they are both green. Additional note - this afternoon I went back out and did a run with 2 3S per side. Used the series harness. No difference.

Sounds more and more like I'm not getting all the power to the electronics.

[zooma]

full brake would be trigger at rest, where the spring tension leaves it.

[Erroneous]

I ask about the batteries because its sounds like you are only getting half throttle, ie LVC. If you have followed all of the above steps for calibration and still getting half power try turning LVC off with your program box. Your packs may not be true to ratings. If it comes alive with LVC off then your packs have to go. Dont continue running with no LVC cut off. As for the full brake question during calibration, yes full brake is full reverse. It needs to be told where neutral, full throttle and reverse are. Hang in there once you get it flying the rush will be well worth it.

[Prodrvr]

full brake would be trigger at rest, where the spring tension leaves it.

Full brake is pushing the trigger forward until it stops. Trigger at rest is neutral. I'm just wondering if he's got the throttle channel in his radio reversed and/or throttle epa not at 100%.

[Erroneous]

Full brake is pushing the trigger forward until it stops. Trigger at rest is neutral. I'm just wondering if he's got the throttle channel in his radio reversed and/or throttle epa not at 100%.

Good question as well.

[Prodrvr]

Good question as well.

I mention that because a guy on another site just bought a new Zonda twin. He said the boat wouldn't go over like 20 something mph. I told him to check his radio and see if the throttle channel was reversed. It turned out that it was. He recalibrated and still wasn't going fast. I then told him to reverse any two wires on both motors. That was it. I met him at the lake for the first real run of his new boat. That thing moved good for a cheap ARTR!! Mid 50's.

[zooma]

Full brake is pushing the trigger forward until it stops. Trigger at rest is neutral. I'm just wondering if he's got the throttle channel in his radio reversed and/or throttle epa not at 100%.

I guess so, if the ESC does not have a reversing function.

[oscarel]

There's an AVC/ST rate knob that says it controls the steering, can you rotate it both ways and see if it makes a difference in the speed of the motors? The instructions are not very straight forward. Am I reading correctly the default reverse switch for throttle is "R" and pulling the trigger would be forward if it's set to "N"?

REVERSE SWITCH
Allows you to change the
direction of steering (ST. REV) and
throttle (TH. REV) controls (default
settings are “N” for steering and
“R” for throttle).

Forward
(when TH.
REV switch on N).

[oscarel]

I mention that because a guy on another site just bought a new Zonda twin. He said the boat wouldn't go over like 20 something mph. I told him to check his radio and see if the throttle channel was reversed. It turned out that it was. He recalibrated and still wasn't going fast. I then told him to reverse any two wires on both motors. That was it. I met him at the lake for the first real run of his new boat. That thing moved good for a cheap ARTR!! Mid 50's.

Changing 2 wires would change the direction the motor spins. If it increased speed something else was wrong.

[mikiek]

Full brake is pushing the trigger forward until it stops. Trigger at rest is neutral. I'm just wondering if he's got the throttle channel in his radio reversed and/or throttle epa not at 100%.

Throttle epa? Is that the same as throttle travel adjustment? I was trying to do that but this is where the question about full brake came up. For some reason I can't cut & paste the instructions from the pdf but here is how I read it:

1. Hold the trigger at full brake and the steering at full right and power on the TX. Green light should flash - It does.

2. Hold trigger at full throttle. Turn trim knob to adjust throttle end point - (what I did) Squeeze trigger, turn knob (clockwise) to full.

3. Hold trigger at full brake. Turn trim knob to adjust full brake end point. - (what I did) Push trigger all the way forward, turn knob (ccw) all the way back

4. Return knob to middle position.

[oscarel]

Throttle epa? Is that the same as throttle travel adjustment? I was trying to do that but this is where the question about full brake came up. For some reason I can't cut & paste the instructions from the pdf but here is how I read it:

1. Hold the trigger at full brake and the steering at full right and power on the TX. Green light should flash - It does.

2. Hold trigger at full throttle. Turn trim knob to adjust throttle end point - (what I did) Squeeze trigger, turn knob (clockwise) to full.

3. Hold trigger at full brake. Turn trim knob to adjust full brake end point. - (what I did) Push trigger all the way forward, turn knob (ccw) all the way back

4. Return knob to middle position.

Pull is foward, push is reverse, finger off is neutral. If you have the transmitter that's shown on page 3 there is not an EPA just neutral trim for steering and throttle. What I'm referring to is on the top right of page 3.

[oscarel]

Throttle epa? Is that the same as throttle travel adjustment? I was trying to do that but this is where the question about full brake came up. For some reason I can't cut & paste the instructions from the pdf but here is how I read it:

1. Hold the trigger at full brake and the steering at full right and power on the TX. Green light should flash - It does.

2. Hold trigger at full throttle. Turn trim knob to adjust throttle end point - (what I did) Squeeze trigger, turn knob (clockwise) to full.

3. Hold trigger at full brake. Turn trim knob to adjust full brake end point. - (what I did) Push trigger all the way forward, turn knob (ccw) all the way back

4. Return knob to middle position.

The instructions don't say to touch the knob... Put it in the middle and leave it.

[fweasel]

Switch your red and black motor wires on the left (port) ESC.

[oscarel]

Switch your red and black motor wires on the left (port) ESC.

Why would he need to do that?