Do you mean ruff ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you mean ruff ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Depends on what you call not ideal conditions. Small amounts of chop is ok, but with significant chop you might want to get yourself a fiberglass repair kit and spare motors. I have ran my x447's from Dasboata on rough stuff and with no issues at all and got 71.2 out of them in pretty much any water I put my boat in. Got have a good balance with the 1814's or you could be like cheek and chong...
Last edited by MADRCER; 05-24-2017 at 06:52 PM.
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
This video I posted a while ago will give a pretty good idea of what the water is like here on a good day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCbK...ature=youtu.be
So given the water shown in the video what would be the prop recommendation?
May your batteries never fail you...
Mike
x447...Hit Dasboata up I bet he has some.
Last edited by MADRCER; 05-26-2017 at 10:01 PM.
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
I ordered a pair of x447's from OSE. I also ordered an 1814-17-45(2) clr. The cll is on backorder. I was thinking of going for a set of props done by someone from OSE, but decided against it. I want to learn how to do this myself. Having more experienced guys lead me in the right direction is great and appreciated. However, having someone do the custom work for me is not the way I learned how to make full sized boats faster and wont be the way I learn how to make these boats faster.
Hope to see you on the Zelos Fast List soon. You can get a pretty good idea what props works well in that thread.
Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, Zonda
IMG_0764.jpg. Getting ready to start.
For what it's worth....The weight of your 4 batteries combined are 10oz heavier than the 4 batteries I ran 77mph stock with.
I didn't have a clue on what to do to a prop when I started in this hobby and most Pros that work on props that is their livelihood and some don't want to give away their secrets or they could risk seeing a decline in business. So I look around for cheap props that have been balanced and sharpened people sell very cheap from time to time to compare to my stock props if I find a prop that works a significantly better than my stock prop I will try to mimic detail of that one on to one of mine myself and see what happens. If I want to eliminate all possibilities of esc/motor, or set up issues, I fork out the bucks for a professionally prepped prop. Good luck, and let us know how your speeds turn out.
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17
Aawwh man! - More $$$ - just what I need
May your batteries never fail you...
Mike
I got to take the Zelos out for a run today. Did better, still room for improvement. The water was pretty flat. Had the packs as far back as possible, struts at 4mm. Running Octuro x447 that I sharpened, thinned and balanced myself. Boat ran well. Seemed to be running on the rear 2 pads like it should be. Decent speed#, at least for me so far. Didn't flip it, no other crash at all. However, when I came back in, I noticed 1 blade on stb prop must have hit something. Don't know when it happened. could have been in the beginning of the run, maybe at the end. Not sure if it hurt speed #'s or not. I am sure it will, but not sure if the GPS recorded top speed before or after it was damaged. No big deal as far as the prop goes, I was planning to detongue them anyway.
There was an issue that bugs me. When I came back in, the hull had a lot of water in it. I found that the inner forward edge of the stb sponson, right where the 2 halves of the hull meet is cracked and letting water in. Must have happened last time I ran it, but I didn't notice it. This prompted me to expedite my plan of re-enforcing the hull. I stripped the hull down. Got it ready for some carbon fiber laminate to be installed under the battery tray, between the sponsons. Once the battery tray was out, I found the hull to be real soft there. Easily pushed it down with 1 finger. Got the carbon fiber cut out and ready to go, but didn't glue it in. I just want to make sure the hull is 100% dried out, before attempting this. BTW, the flotation that the boat comes with, was saturated with water. That crack must open up under load and allow water to spray in.
I am pretty sure I know how to handle the carbon fiber under the battery tray. What is the best option to strengthen the forward part of the hull, under the deck. I can get my hands under the deck a bit to lay down some carbon fiber between the sponsons, but no way to reach where the crack is. I can fix the crack from the outside, but I want to strengthen that area. I have read that some guys pour a few ounces or resin in , others say fill the entire bow with non expanding foam. I am not liking the foam idea. What if it gets wet? Will it dry out? What is the best way to go with this.
Looks like the prop warped. Thinned too much?..
Good thought, it may have, I thinned that area quite a bit.
Zacks bay ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, I was in Zachs Bay this morning.
Vinny - if you are referring to the joint where the hull & deck meet, an option is epoxy. You might check out the thread where I had to fix that area after a run in with a cement wall. Seems to be a weak spot in the design if you ask me. Lot's of people with similar cracks.
I'm not talking about the 2 tube stuff from HD. I mean WEST marine epoxy. It starts thin like syrup and you thicken it as required for the application. For the hull I mixed it barely runny.
It's ridiculously hard to get any kind of applicator in there. I used a small brush taped to the end of a dowel. I knew there would be no way to accurately apply the epoxy in there, so the plan (and thus the slightly runny epoxy) was to turn the boat upside down and just slather the joint as best I could, front to rear. Then leave the hull on edge with that joint being lower than anything else. Gravity will pull the epoxy down and into the joint area. Prop up the hull so it stays like that overnight to let the epoxy set. The joint will be hard as a rock in the morning.
There are other fixatives that you could use to do the same thing, the point is just to let gravity help you fill the joint. I have a lot of experience with WEST epoxy so that's what I used.
I am quickly finding out, in this hobby if nothing broke on an outing then you had a good day
May your batteries never fail you...
Mike
Thanks Mike. Yes, I am using West Marine system as well.
Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, Zonda
Are your SMCs the 3s2p hardcase?
Yes they are the 3s2p. Here is the link for them.
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=399
Does anyone know what the thread size of the battery tray screws are?
Not sure about the thread count/ designation but I get these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQ...dyL&ref=plSrch
80% of the rc screws you will ever need are in this kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U...3jL&ref=plSrch
Thanks....just ordered the kit.
Last edited by vinnyp; 06-08-2017 at 07:56 PM.
Bookmarks