10s2p connections

[urbs00007]

I will be running (4) 5s 5000mah in series and parallel to get 10s 10,000mah. purchased a 48" zelos to run my T.P.5670 800 kv with lite swordfish 300. i would like to mount the 8mm bullet connectors to the hull to allow one hand disconnects and plug-ins. maybe small boards mounted on stand-offs with the appropriate connectors epoxied into the boards vertically. something like the safety disconnects that some organizations require. and maybe bullets could be color coded as to avoid incorrect hookups. any thoughts?

[urbs00007]

I will be running (4) 5s 5000mah in series and parallel to get 10s 10,000mah. purchased a 48" zelos to run my T.P.5670 800 kv with lite swordfish 300. i would like to mount the 8mm bullet connectors to the hull to allow one hand disconnects and plug-ins. maybe small boards mounted on stand-offs with the appropriate connectors epoxied into the boards vertically. something like the safety disconnects that some organizations require. and maybe bullets could be color coded as to avoid incorrect hookups. any thoughts?

this is what I ended up with. 2 sets of 2 batteries. pos to neg both sides, then neg. hookups at the T . never ran 10s2p before. did I do it correctly? pos. bullets were soldered and filled, then drilled and tapped 6-32, then mounted to the floor. plenty strong.

[NativePaul]

It is a parallel harness, but it uses a lot more wire than is needed. It looks like you have added caps to compensate for the extra wire, which is a good idea, but unless you only have one good hand I don't thing adding that much wireisworth it for what little convenience you gain.

[urbs00007]

It is a parallel harness, but it uses a lot more wire than is needed. It looks like you have added caps to compensate for the extra wire, which is a good idea, but unless you only have one good hand I don't thing adding that much wireisworth it for what little convenience you gain.

I dont see how I could shorten those positive wires. with the batteries that far foward , how would I get the positive lead from that front pack to the esc? now, I'll admit that I put the batteries as far foward as i could on the battery tray to allow adjustment for cg, and if I need to move back I can shorten those leads. I anticipate a looser running hull because I blueprinted the running surfaces.

[NativePaul]

I don't see why the positives need to be any longer than the negatives, they exit your packs in the same place and have the same length of wire on them don't they?

[urbs00007]

I don't see why the positives need to be any longer than the negatives, they exit your packs in the same place and have the same length of wire on them don't they?

I'm running parallel and series. will run and check temps.

[NativePaul]

I'm running parallel and series.

I know, I still don't see the need for it though.

Where your battery trays and ESCs and wires it looks like you are running your 2x5s packs making up 10s in each side, and paralleling each side to make 10s2p. Have a look at battery orientations, it looks like you could lose several inches of negative and about a foot of positive on each side in the boat, and a couple more inches on each battery, just by putting your packs in head to head rather than nose to tail. A worthwhile gain as it is not just power sapping resistance or unnecessary weight, long Battery to ESC wires increase the ripple voltage and are very hard on the ESC.

[urbs00007]

I know, I still don't see the need for it though.

Where your battery trays and ESCs and wires it looks like you are running your 2x5s packs making up 10s in each side, and paralleling each side to make 10s2p. Have a look at battery orientations, it looks like you could lose several inches of negative and about a foot of positive on each side in the boat, and a couple more inches on each battery, just by putting your packs in head to head rather than nose to tail. A worthwhile gain as it is not just power sapping resistance or unnecessary weight, long Battery to ESC wires increase the ripple voltage and are very hard on the ESC.

appreciate your help, but I'm not understanding how to lose significant wire lengths. photo shows head to head. i can lose 3 inches if i get rid of 90 degree pos connection, but then i need to add alot of neg to get to connection on esc.

[urbs00007]

appreciate your help, but I'm not understanding how to lose significant wire lengths. photo shows head to head. i can lose 3 inches if i get rid of 90 degree pos connection, but then i need to add alot of neg to get to connection on esc.

any response?

[NativePaul]

No, I don't have the same setup to take photos and show you, at this point if you don't see it, you don't see it. I hope the added caps are enough mitigation.

[Peter A]

Urbs, here is my thought. Remove the extra cap bank etc from where it is and un bundle the wires, run the esc +,- wires each side straight to battery packs (connectors on each +,- to suit, re wire the cap bank with separate wires to the +,- at the esc and sit on top of the esc, or closer to it depending on what suits best. That way you get rid of the extra wire length and you can either keep the cap bank or not.

[urbs00007]

Urbs, here is my thought. Remove the extra cap bank etc from where it is and un bundle the wires, run the esc +,- wires each side straight to battery packs (connectors on each +,- to suit, re wire the cap bank with separate wires to the +,- at the esc and sit on top of the esc, or closer to it depending on what suits best. That way you get rid of the extra wire length and you can either keep the cap bank or not.

that sounds like a great idea. can i run separate packs to both pos and neg leads like that with 4 wires out of the esc? I assumed they had to be soldered together. thanks for the help.

[Peter A]

I think the - wires have a common connection but the + go to either side of the esc so perhaps put a jumper wire between them so that the esc gets even/balanced power both sides. There is more than one way to 'skin this cat' just think it through. Of course you could just bring the existing wire setup forward on top of the esc to where the batt wires can reach, I figure there is enough height under the canopy, just move the cap bank if it is in the way.

[urbs00007]

I think the - wires have a common connection but the + go to either side of the esc so perhaps put a jumper wire between them so that the esc gets even/balanced power both sides. There is more than one way to 'skin this cat' just think it through. Of course you could just bring the existing wire setup forward on top of the esc to where the batt wires can reach, I figure there is enough height under the canopy, just move the cap bank if it is in the way.

thanks for your help. going to take another look at it.

[urbs00007]

how does this look.

[srislash]

how does this look.

I notice the blacks are short at the T junction. Can the red ones be made to match and still have the batteries reach?

I would install cap bank(s) in over the motor collet.

[urbs00007]

I notice the blacks are short at the T junction. Can the red ones be made to match and still have the batteries reach?

I would install cap bank(s) in over the motor collet.

no, that's as short as i can make the pos. if i run cap bank, i will put where the strap is. if i put it over the flex coupler, where would i attach the cap bank?

[srislash]

Any where on the wire. Just strip a bit of insulation and solder. But you would have to uber careful so it can't hit the coupler

[Peter A]

You can extend the black wires at the T so that they are the same length as the red. The cap bank can also be wired in at the T's to make things simpler I think.

[urbs00007]

Any where on the wire. Just strip a bit of insulation and solder. But you would have to uber careful so it can't hit the coupler

does the cap bank need to be after the 2 wires are joined down to one wire? or can I put it on one of the double wires?

[srislash]

does the cap bank need to be after the 2 wires are joined down to one wire? or can I put it on one of the double wires?

Oh yeah, you still have the two leads off the ESC. Well unless you can make a cap bank for each set of wires( I make my own for this), up top is the best option.

[Pennstater]

So I came across this thread because I need to wire up an 8s2p (4-4s1p packs). I'm struggling to visualize how I should do this. While I understand the concept of series and parallel wiring, I'm not sure of the best way to do this (least wire, convenience, etc.).

Could perhaps a centralized board be made that allows the batteries to simply be connected to corresponding jacks on the board and then the board has the correct wiring to setup the serial and parallel connections? Or is it better to just do it in some wiring harness? Does anyone have a nice diagram showing an optimal way to make this harness or a potential board?

[CraigP]

The specific wiring used is hinged closely to the layout in the boat. It's really hard to know without seeing pics of the layout, at least for me...

[Pennstater]

I don't have any pics handy, but I can try and describe it...

The boat is a 48" Warehouse Hobbies Enforcer; deep vee. Standard 5" rails with motor mount in center vee. ESC is mounted above the motor (a CC 2028 Extreme with an OSE mount). The batteries would be on the outside of the 5" rails.

In this configuration, I would assume two batteries would go end to end on each side. Just thinking "out loud" while I type this: There might be enough room to turn the batteries on their short side ( instead of laying flat with label up they could go on their sides with the label facing in towards the center of the vee or out towards the sides), that way they could be set side by side instead of end to end.

[srislash]

So I came across this thread because I need to wire up an 8s2p (4-4s1p packs). I'm struggling to visualize how I should do this. While I understand the concept of series and parallel wiring, I'm not sure of the best way to do this (least wire, convenience, etc.).

Could perhaps a centralized board be made that allows the batteries to simply be connected to corresponding jacks on the board and then the board has the correct wiring to setup the serial and parallel connections? Or is it better to just do it in some wiring harness? Does anyone have a nice diagram showing an optimal way to make this harness or a potential board?

I use a length of 8gauge wire and solder the necessary bullets to that. Like Craig said it does kind of depend on the layout of the boat. My example is with ESC's on either side of boat, I use 8mm bullets from ESC to 8G wire across to other ESC 8mm bullets. I then solder 6.5mm bullets(my preference) along the connecting wires. I have one boat with a 8s2p setup and another with 6s4p. Cap banks attach as near to ESC board as possible.
I do have another setup with central ESC's and they are connected using ESC supplied wire and a short jumper giving a 4s2p supply. I can get you pics of the above setups

Shawn

[srislash]

I don't have any pics handy, but I can try and describe it...

The boat is a 48" Warehouse Hobbies Enforcer; deep vee. Standard 5" rails with motor mount in center vee. ESC is mounted above the motor (a CC 2028 Extreme with an OSE mount). The batteries would be on the outside of the 5" rails.

In this configuration, I would assume two batteries would go end to end on each side. Just thinking "out loud" while I type this: There might be enough room to turn the batteries on their short side ( instead of laying flat with label up they could go on their sides with the label facing in towards the center of the vee or out towards the sides), that way they could be set side by side instead of end to end.

Ok it is even easier then, all you really need is a three way connection for red and same for black.
For this may I ask what size connectors you are using on the batteries?

[CraigP]

Yes, sounds straight forward... I like to put the two batteries on each side with the wires facing each other, so I can Tee off from there, go straight across to the ESC and the cross-over to the other side. I was talking about getting your wires as short as possible. To that, the CG and battery placement needs to be worked out already. If you still need to move the batts around, then you'll have the make the wires longer. Most batts have #10 wire coming out. So I would make a plug for each of the batteries with #10 wires coming out of those, then join the two reds and blacks into single #8 wire. This #8 wire is your cross over wire to the other battery pairs which has the same #8 to #10 wiring as the other side on the opposite side and a power feed to the ESC. Try to make each side as identical as you can.

[Pennstater]

Thanks for the replies. I'll need to re-read this to make sense of it. Any diagrams would be helpful (I may draw up what I think it should be and post here for verification).

I use 8awg wire with 6mm bullets. FWIW: the CC 2028 Extreme is 800kv and the ESC is a SF 240HV Pro (2, I think).

[srislash]

Oh yeah, on a larger boat shunt wires are likely necessary. My configs in this manner have been smaller boats and I have made little blocks out of connectors. On a smaller boat the battery leads are able to meet in a common place from each side

[Pennstater]

1505698717858-387250121.jpg

Does this look right?