Just joined the MC crew!

[Prodrvr]

Stock plastic prop. Have a cnc prop on the way. Didn't touch the rudder. The bottom of the strut is 1/8" up from bottom of sponsons. I can't believe just a prop change will gain me 13 mph.

[roofintrash]

Stock plastic prop. Have a cnc prop on the way. Didn't touch the rudder. The bottom of the strut is 1/8" up from bottom of sponsons. I can't believe just a prop change will gain me 13 mph.

The prop change makes it a different boat. You'll be grinning.

[Mxkid261]

I agree the prop should really wake it up but I never ran mine with stock electrics. It does about 50 with a 1800kv 3674 and m445.

[Prodrvr]

I'm thinking of swapping out the stock motor for a SSS 3674 2075Kv and run it on a 5 or 6 cell. Already have a Seaking 120A esc on the way. Now I can't wait to try the prop that's on the way.

[Prodrvr]

I'm still debating about cutting out the tub and doing a cf interior.

[roofintrash]

I'm thinking of swapping out the stock motor for a SSS 3674 2075Kv and run it on a 5 or 6 cell. Already have a Seaking 120A esc on the way. Now I can't wait to try the prop that's on the way.

If you go this route,I would definitely cut out the tub and beef up the inside. When I decided to do mine it was mainly to get rid of the crappy motor mount, but I also wanted a little more speed without being too hard on the electronics. I went with a TP3675 1935kv, Raider 150,still on 4s. The motor and esc temps were both around 100 degrees and I picked up mph without breaking a sweat. I feel better about it if it does blow off the water because of the inlay. Really stiffened it up. The other thing I noticed was how much better it handled with the batteries down in the sponsons. It seemed to stay settled down in the corners so much better,that alone made the change worthwhile. With the motor, battery combo you're wanting you will probably hurt the stock hull in a tumble, as your speeds will be higher. Make sure you beef up the inside of the hatch also so you don't turn it inside out in a tumble. Just my 2c

[Mxkid261]

This hull really isnt made to take a hard hit. Ive seen people have the side seams split just from a crash at 50. The tub probably adds some rigidity to the chassis. If you take it out I would pour epoxy in tips/transom and lay some strips of cloth down the side seams, and bunch of pool noodle under the front deck to avoid flex. The tub has proven itself well thats why Ive left mine alone. Tony (propperchopper) is going on like this 6th race season with the same stock MC hull, a lot of races with that hull Lol. I've never had my motor mount move but I added aluminum and larger screws to it before I ever ran it.

[Prodrvr]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll plan on removing the tub.

[Prodrvr]

Here's my next question...is cutting out the tub a straight forward deal, or are there some tricks to it?

[roofintrash]

I just marked a line 1/4" down into the tub and carefully cut it with a dremel cutoff wheel. Once cut, I used a pair of tin snips here and there on the sides until it flexed enough to come out. Took as long to mark it as to remove it.

[Prodrvr]

I just marked a line 1/4" down into the tub and carefully cut it with a dremel cutoff wheel. Once cut, I used a pair of tin snips here and there on the sides until it flexed enough to come out. Took as long to mark it as to remove it.

Very good, thanks Rick!

[roofintrash]

Very good, thanks Rick!

If you have a small pair of scissors like r/c car body type, use them to cut up to the stuffing tube. When I made the last snip, all the glue and sealant popped right off so clean up was a breeze.

[Prodrvr]

If you have a small pair of scissors like r/c car body type, use them to cut up to the stuffing tube. When I made the last snip, all the glue and sealant popped right off so clean up was a breeze.

Yeah, I have both the straight and curved lexan body scissors. I have enough cf fabric and epoxy from another boat to do this one, so I should just get to it. You know, just in handling the hatch a few times, those silly cheap plastic stiffners that they hot glued in, popped right off. I want to lay some cf on the hatch, but I still need to use my gps. Should I leave a "window" of fiberglass so the gps will still work?

[roofintrash]

I ran a 2" strip of cf around the outside of the hatch and JB welded a couple carbon rods in place of the cheesy stock stiffeners. Garmin gps worked fine Saturday.

[Prodrvr]

Awesome! I happen to have a few 6mm cf rods sitting here.