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Thread: Just joined the MC crew!

  1. #31
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    Mar 2017
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    Have not had mine long but have had chance to run some packs. though 4 back to back runs between a cool down,couple drops of water but that may have come off hatch cover,I did post a YouTube vid of a run with some venom 5000mah 30c packs,So far I'm really liking this boat got about 12 runs on it and Just running stock prop with OSE flex cable and yes my motor mount was off as well,not tried the CNC x440 prop yet,did move the strut up a bit.And I lied when I posted would be happy with a 40 50 mph boat HA.anyway enjoy your MC I'm lovn mine right now.

  2. #32
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    Jul 2015
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    Nooo....50 mph not fast enough!

  3. #33
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    Is the tub glued to the tunnel? Do you lose much or any stiffness when you cut the tub out? I guess if it is not glued to the tunnel you won't lose much if any stiffness.

    I know you guys are removing the tub to make more room for more power, and stiffening it up with a layer of carbon in the bottom, but I am thinking of getting one and doing it for different reasons.

    I ran a Mean Machine on 4s1p for 5 minute races in my last club and it was OK, but my new club runs for 6 mins, and my MM is a typical terrible Aeromarine heavy moulding, I kind of want to splash the MM and make a light one to race with, but while I would end up with the perfect boat, it would be a lot of work and it would cost a fair bit. For about the same cost and a lot less effort I could buy a MC hull (which I hear are pretty thin and light), and cut the tub out of it to save further weight, I am only after mid 40s and my pond is wadeable all over, so I need stiffness to run well, not strength so much.
    Paul "tug Killer" Upton-Taylor, Cat lover.
    FastElectricBoats.co.uk

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    IN
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    48

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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    Is the tub glued to the tunnel? Do you lose much or any stiffness when you cut the tub out? I guess if it is not glued to the tunnel you won't lose much if any stiffness.

    I know you guys are removing the tub to make more room for more power, and stiffening it up with a layer of carbon in the bottom, but I am thinking of getting one and doing it for different reasons.

    I ran a Mean Machine on 4s1p for 5 minute races in my last club and it was OK, but my new club runs for 6 mins, and my MM is a typical terrible Aeromarine heavy moulding, I kind of want to splash the MM and make a light one to race with, but while I would end up with the perfect boat, it would be a lot of work and it would cost a fair bit. For about the same cost and a lot less effort I could buy a MC hull (which I hear are pretty thin and light), and cut the tub out of it to save further weight, I am only after mid 40s and my pond is wadeable all over, so I need stiffness to run well, not strength so much.
    The only place the tub and hull were joined was at the stuffing tube,and servo mount, and that was just extra dripped sealant. The single layer of carbon really got rid of the flex and didn't add anymore weight than the original tub. Being able to put the batteries down in the sponsons really seems to have improved the handling,especially in the corners. I didn't go crazy with motor size because I really wanted it to perform about the same as stock without working as hard. TP 3640 1935kv and same m445 prop gives me 51mph (stock was 45) with more available with additional setup changes I'm sure. Best part is the motor and esc barely get warm after a run. That's what I was shooting for.
    Rick

  5. #35
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    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    Is the tub glued to the tunnel? Do you lose much or any stiffness when you cut the tub out? I guess if it is not glued to the tunnel you won't lose much if any stiffness.

    I know you guys are removing the tub to make more room for more power, and stiffening it up with a layer of carbon in the bottom, but I am thinking of getting one and doing it for different reasons.

    I ran a Mean Machine on 4s1p for 5 minute races in my last club and it was OK, but my new club runs for 6 mins, and my MM is a typical terrible Aeromarine heavy moulding, I kind of want to splash the MM and make a light one to race with, but while I would end up with the perfect boat, it would be a lot of work and it would cost a fair bit. For about the same cost and a lot less effort I could buy a MC hull (which I hear are pretty thin and light), and cut the tub out of it to save further weight, I am only after mid 40s and my pond is wadeable all over, so I need stiffness to run well, not strength so much.
    Mine weighs like 4 lbs without batteries for reference.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    IN
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    Just went to weigh mine and when I plugged in my scale it let the magic smoke out. Dammit man. Whole room stinks now. LOL
    Rick

  7. #37
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    Feb 2008
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    Was it as floppy as all hell before you put the carbon in roofintrash?

    I weighed my MM and it is 2038g 4lb 8oz without batteries, so 2598g or 5lb 12oz RTR. I will be shooting for 2kg or 4.4lb RTR, which is 1440g or 3lb 3oz without batteries, think that is doable with a stripped out MC? Do you have carbon in yours MXkid261? Stock electrics? (I think they are about the same weight as my Hacker L can and Suppo 200) I would be interested to see pictures of the inside of yours if you have or can get any, to see where I can save further weight.
    Paul "tug Killer" Upton-Taylor, Cat lover.
    FastElectricBoats.co.uk

  8. #38
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    Aug 2016
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    IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    Was it as floppy as all hell before you put the carbon in roofintrash?

    I weighed my MM and it is 2038g 4lb 8oz without batteries, so 2598g or 5lb 12oz RTR. I will be shooting for 2kg or 4.4lb RTR, which is 1440g or 3lb 3oz without batteries, think that is doable with a stripped out MC? Do you have carbon in yours MXkid261? Stock electrics? (I think they are about the same weight as my Hacker L can and Suppo 200) I would be interested to see pictures of the inside of yours if you have or can get any, to see where I can save further weight.
    I wouldn't call it floppy overall,but the tunnel floor was quite flexible. The carbon stiffened it up nicely.
    Rick

  9. #39
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    Jun 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    Was it as floppy as all hell before you put the carbon in roofintrash?

    I weighed my MM and it is 2038g 4lb 8oz without batteries, so 2598g or 5lb 12oz RTR. I will be shooting for 2kg or 4.4lb RTR, which is 1440g or 3lb 3oz without batteries, think that is doable with a stripped out MC? Do you have carbon in yours MXkid261? Stock electrics? (I think they are about the same weight as my Hacker L can and Suppo 200) I would be interested to see pictures of the inside of yours if you have or can get any, to see where I can save further weight.
    I got mine last summer in scratch and dent section from tower with no electrics, so never ran it "stock". I do not have carbon in mine because I still run the tub. I bet you could get it right around 4.5 lbs RTR. I can weigh mine with two 6500mah 2s SMC packs if you'd like.

  10. #40
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    Jul 2015
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    FL
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    I got the cnc 42x1.4 prop in the mail yesterday. Hopefully I can get a run in after work today to get some numbers.

  11. #41
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    So what electrics do you have in it?
    Paul "tug Killer" Upton-Taylor, Cat lover.
    FastElectricBoats.co.uk

  12. #42
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    Jul 2015
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    FL
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    All stock running 2 - 4s 4000's in parallel

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    So what electrics do you have in it?
    I have a couple setups I've ran. Usually just use a 3674 and a T120 or 180. I have a castle 1515 1Y and a new Raider 150 ESC to try, this setup will definitely be a little heavier. I thought of cutting out the tub over this past winter, but it runs so well as is I just left it, plus its kind of convenient. I usually run two 6500mah 2s packs.

  14. #44
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    Well, I had a very disappointing test session. Installed the new cnc 42x1.4 prop, charged up the 4s x 2, went for a run. Here's the numbers:

    34.31 A
    536.2 W
    28.7 MPH
    I thought the stock plastic prop is 42 x 1.4, maybe it's not? I lost 3.2 mph from the stock prop.

  15. #45
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    Apr 2007
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    put an M445 on it and hang on!

  16. #46
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    Is the boat running wet? Strut to low? CG to far forward?

  17. #47
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    Go to the 2:22 mark of the vid...mine with stock electronics running 50.5 Mph on the gps.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xcBY3sqrHw

  18. #48
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    Doby- she's airing out pretty well, but could air out a touch more. I have the strut level...1/8" up from the sponson bottoms. I'll try the M445 and see how she goes. Are you running yours on 4s? I see the motor is rated for up to 5s, so I might pick up a pair to try. The Seaking 120 showed up today, so I'll get it hooked up over the weekend.

  19. #49
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    How would a 3 blade prop work out?

  20. #50
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    A single 4s 5800 mah, 25C Turnigy.

    Mines strut is 1/2" from the bottom. Running a very modified X452.

  21. #51
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    Wow a 1/2"! I'll have to get another prop for sure.

  22. #52
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    That lets the motor spin the big prop...and helps air out the hull.

  23. #53
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    I think it might be time to start modding the hull and rebuild.

  24. #54
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    Thinking of going with a SSS 3674 2075Kv on 5s

  25. #55
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    I would toss a motor/esc in it, an m445, and go let er rip. I wouldn't want to go any faster than 50 unless its reinforced. If you find yourself wanting more speed you may want to look into building something or buying something more capable.

  26. #56
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    FL
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    I'm actually waiting on a FC Daytona that I bought to show up

  27. #57
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    Apr 2007
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    AZ
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    I agree, don't waste your money on the SSS motor and 5S, the stock setup will push the cat as fast as it can stand. As stated, these hulls are too fragile for high speeds. Mine runs stock electronics, 4S 5000 mAh pack and a modded x445 for top speeds in the upper 40s in race water. The bottom of the SpeedMaster strut is about 3/8" above the bottom and angled up at the prop end by two degrees.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ghlight=Motley

    The Daytona will be a better choice for higher speeds and would be best, IMO, on 6S and a 40x82 motor, the Kv depending on speed and run time expectations.


    .
    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    I agree, don't waste your money on the SSS motor and 5S, the stock setup will push the cat as fast as it can stand. As stated, these hulls are too fragile for high speeds. Mine runs stock electronics, 4S 5000 mAh pack and a modded x445 for top speeds in the upper 40s in race water. The bottom of the SpeedMaster strut is about 3/8" above the bottom and angled up at the prop end by two degrees.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ghlight=Motley

    The Daytona will be a better choice for higher speeds and would be best, IMO, on 6S and a 40x82 motor, the Kv depending on speed and run time expectations.


    .
    Planning on going with twin 4082's on 6s

  29. #59
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    FL
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    And the stock 1800kv motor will handle 5s, so I'll get a couple and play with props.

  30. #60
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    Fluid- you run just one pack?

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