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Thread: Just joined the MC crew!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    FL
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    701

    Default Just joined the MC crew!

    Hey guys, the boat showed up today and looks good. I had to adjust the water pick up and the strut. I have a few questions.

    Regarding batteries, is lighter better, or is the weight needed to keep it balanced at speed?
    I see it runs on two 2s lipo's. I don't have any. Can I just cut the series harness off the esc and just parallel my two 4s lipo's?
    On 4s, which prop will give the most mph without cooking everything?
    And last question for now, do any of the stock components have to be upgraded immediately?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    CA
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    88

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    Awesome. I'm having a great time with my MC. I'm lucky enough to take my boats to 2 different local lakes. One has more chop and wind than the other... I use the 4S in parallel with some adjustments when I go to the lake with chop & wind to help from blowovers... I use the 2S in series with different adjustments at the lake that has less chop and hardly any wind... Lots of adjusting and tuning to get your MC to plane good on the water... That's just part of it. What works for me may not work out for you... You'll understand the characteristics of your boat the more times you get to take it to the lake and tune... Have fun...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    On
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    7,250

    Default

    When I race mine in windy conditions, I use a single 8000 Mah Zippy 4S pack placed on the left side. (It really does fit!). The weight on the one side counteracts the prop torque nicely.

    There is no need to update the stock components.

  4. #4
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    Jul 2015
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    Sounds good guys! I already ordered a new prop...I'm not even going to run it with the plastic one. One thing I did notice is that the motor shaft is not perfectly in line with the flex cable. The motor shaft is a touch higher. Now do I make an attempt to bend the stuffing tube up, or do I somehow lower the motor?

  5. #5
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    Jul 2015
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    Ok, motor mount lowered, shaft lines up perfect now.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Yes the motor mount is very easy to bend. I had to do the same to line up the flex and motor...
    Also the stock flexshaft for the MC isnt the greatest. Ive read many posts where they have broken and the prop is lost. Of course my first time out with the MC and the prop shaft breaks off with my new GR 42 x 55 prop. I kept the broken flex as a reminder. So keep that in mind. Maybe keep the stock prop and flex for spare / backup, and get the OSE flex for the MC and install ur new prop on that 1...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    FL
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    Default

    The one from OSE is out of stock, however it's available from Kintec. I didn't bend the motor bracket, I relocated it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    CA
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    Oh my mount to stuffing tube wasn;t that far off where I had to relocate my mount. I only needed like a 1mm adjustment down... Let the prop/ flex turn much easier...

  9. #9
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    Jul 2015
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    I had to lower the bracket 1/8"

  10. #10
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    Can a 3/16" flex cable fit if I removed the teflon liner?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    Can a 3/16" flex cable fit if I removed the teflon liner?
    Yes

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mxkid261 View Post
    Yes
    Sweet thanks!!

  13. #13
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    Jul 2015
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    Got her wet for the first time this morning. It runs well, but nowhere near fast enough. Came back in after 5 minutes of full throttle running and the inside was bone dry...awesome! Now I can safely use my gps in it without fear of getting water in it. I'll have to establish a baseline on it next run.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    FL
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    Here's my baseline...all stock using 2 - 4s 4000 25C

    Amps: 33.26
    Watts: 534.8
    Mph: 31.9

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    IN
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    What prop were you running? Mine,bone stock other than an m445 prop topped out at 45mph. I probably could have got a little more out of it but couldn't leave well enough alone with that motor mount. Ran it for the first time yesterday gutted and switched up and got 51 on a not very good day wind wise. Love this boat.
    Rick

  16. #16
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    Stock plastic prop. Have a cnc prop on the way. Didn't touch the rudder. The bottom of the strut is 1/8" up from bottom of sponsons. I can't believe just a prop change will gain me 13 mph.

  17. #17
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    Aug 2016
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    IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    Stock plastic prop. Have a cnc prop on the way. Didn't touch the rudder. The bottom of the strut is 1/8" up from bottom of sponsons. I can't believe just a prop change will gain me 13 mph.
    The prop change makes it a different boat. You'll be grinning.
    Rick

  18. #18
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    I agree the prop should really wake it up but I never ran mine with stock electrics. It does about 50 with a 1800kv 3674 and m445.

  19. #19
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    I'm thinking of swapping out the stock motor for a SSS 3674 2075Kv and run it on a 5 or 6 cell. Already have a Seaking 120A esc on the way. Now I can't wait to try the prop that's on the way.

  20. #20
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    I'm still debating about cutting out the tub and doing a cf interior.

  21. #21
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    Aug 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    I'm thinking of swapping out the stock motor for a SSS 3674 2075Kv and run it on a 5 or 6 cell. Already have a Seaking 120A esc on the way. Now I can't wait to try the prop that's on the way.
    If you go this route,I would definitely cut out the tub and beef up the inside. When I decided to do mine it was mainly to get rid of the crappy motor mount, but I also wanted a little more speed without being too hard on the electronics. I went with a TP3675 1935kv, Raider 150,still on 4s. The motor and esc temps were both around 100 degrees and I picked up mph without breaking a sweat. I feel better about it if it does blow off the water because of the inlay. Really stiffened it up. The other thing I noticed was how much better it handled with the batteries down in the sponsons. It seemed to stay settled down in the corners so much better,that alone made the change worthwhile. With the motor, battery combo you're wanting you will probably hurt the stock hull in a tumble, as your speeds will be higher. Make sure you beef up the inside of the hatch also so you don't turn it inside out in a tumble. Just my 2c
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Rick

  22. #22
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    This hull really isnt made to take a hard hit. Ive seen people have the side seams split just from a crash at 50. The tub probably adds some rigidity to the chassis. If you take it out I would pour epoxy in tips/transom and lay some strips of cloth down the side seams, and bunch of pool noodle under the front deck to avoid flex. The tub has proven itself well thats why Ive left mine alone. Tony (propperchopper) is going on like this 6th race season with the same stock MC hull, a lot of races with that hull Lol. I've never had my motor mount move but I added aluminum and larger screws to it before I ever ran it.

  23. #23
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    Jul 2015
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I'll plan on removing the tub.

  24. #24
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    Here's my next question...is cutting out the tub a straight forward deal, or are there some tricks to it?

  25. #25
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    Aug 2016
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    I just marked a line 1/4" down into the tub and carefully cut it with a dremel cutoff wheel. Once cut, I used a pair of tin snips here and there on the sides until it flexed enough to come out. Took as long to mark it as to remove it.
    Rick

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by roofintrash View Post
    I just marked a line 1/4" down into the tub and carefully cut it with a dremel cutoff wheel. Once cut, I used a pair of tin snips here and there on the sides until it flexed enough to come out. Took as long to mark it as to remove it.
    Very good, thanks Rick!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prodrvr View Post
    Very good, thanks Rick!
    If you have a small pair of scissors like r/c car body type, use them to cut up to the stuffing tube. When I made the last snip, all the glue and sealant popped right off so clean up was a breeze.
    Rick

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by roofintrash View Post
    If you have a small pair of scissors like r/c car body type, use them to cut up to the stuffing tube. When I made the last snip, all the glue and sealant popped right off so clean up was a breeze.
    Yeah, I have both the straight and curved lexan body scissors. I have enough cf fabric and epoxy from another boat to do this one, so I should just get to it. You know, just in handling the hatch a few times, those silly cheap plastic stiffners that they hot glued in, popped right off. I want to lay some cf on the hatch, but I still need to use my gps. Should I leave a "window" of fiberglass so the gps will still work?

  29. #29
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    I ran a 2" strip of cf around the outside of the hatch and JB welded a couple carbon rods in place of the cheesy stock stiffeners. Garmin gps worked fine Saturday.
    Rick

  30. #30
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    Awesome! I happen to have a few 6mm cf rods sitting here.

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