Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567 LastLast
Results 121 to 150 of 186

Thread: What did you do to your boat today?

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    Paul, you only need a tub of builders bog and a vice to straighten up the flexshaft and a good 3 inch nail for the motor shaft fix. just joking mate.

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    He! He!
    Yep. The hole & the cosmetics are simple enough But where do you get new rotors for a TFL SSS 4092 1650kv motor?

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    Paul, would you have to buy another motor or can you get the rotor seperate ?

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    I'm hoping to buy the rotor separately. I guess it would be wise to put a set of bearings in it too.

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    QL
    Posts
    1,038

    Default

    can r/c boat bitz help with sss parts ?

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    I'm hoping to buy the rotor separately. I guess it would be wise to put a set of bearings in it too.
    I was just about to reply with that same advice. I suppose it was lucky the shaft sheared before the collet. Had the break occurred in the flex, the internal collateral damage could have been much worse.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    Actually guys I did send Joe at RCBB an email asking if he can get one. Just waiting to hear back from him.

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    9,384

    Default

    If you can't get a rotor let me know. I might have a Leo rotor that might fit.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  9. #129
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Yowzers! That’s a nuger whampie there! I’ve never seen a motor shaft break, looks like shear carnage... looking at your pics, do you have aluminum skins on your sponsons? I put aluminum on my hydro too! You don’t see that very often either

    **This is response to the pics posted of the hydro with the broken motor shaft thread #120**

  10. #130
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by runningman View Post
    Bath tub test :)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Come on, hit the throttle! Isn’t there a little voice that would like to? That thought runs across my mind every time I set one in the tub. Do you do the “waterfall test”? BTW, you’re boat is beautiful!

  11. #131
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    If you can't get a rotor let me know. I might have a Leo rotor that might fit.
    Thanks ray. I'll keep that in mind.

    Craig.
    It was definitely a solid hit.
    The underside of the sponsons you see in the pics are only painted with aluminium paint.
    Here's a picture of the top side, and the sponson of the ML Boatworks kit that speared it. Tough boats aren't they.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #132
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    So the impact broke the motor shaft? If that’s the case, then I’d say very tough boat! Did your boat sink?

  13. #133
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default Sealed Hatch Vover for DF29

    Yesterday I finally built the sealing into the hatch for my DF29 Mono. This was the only boat left that needed hatch tape, which I seem to have a pet peave about. The problem has been that the hatch cover is very flimsy. The boat is thin too... So I had the build a re-in forcing frame around the outside of the hatch cover, so it won’t bend. You need uniform pressure around the closed cell foam rubber for it to work. I built the frame out of light weight basswood, marine epoxied it in, then sealed with clear coat. The adhesive on the tape is pretty weak stuff, so I augment the bond by applying rubber contact cement first. The hold downs are 6-32 blind nuts with the darts bent back flat. I made some plates to fixture the nuts in and give more glueing area for retention. Now it needs the bathtub test with the “waterfall”!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    Luckily the boat landed upside down (downside up at this end of the world) So there was hardly any water in it.

    Nice work on the hatch. I dare say that the waterfall test will be 100% successful.

  15. #135
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Water test was successful! It’s ready for some lake time... Paul, what kind of hull is in your ID picture? Would that be considered a rigger, Hydro? It looks like a four-point hybrid, very nice! I would love to mount the batteries in those sponsons, get that weight spread out... is this a kit you could recommend to me?

  16. #136
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    It is an ML Boatworks Winston Eagle Lobster kit that I converted into a canard configuration.
    In its true form I understand that it is a very good boat to run. But you'll have to speak to those that have built it properly on that.
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...n+Eagle+Canard

  17. #137
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Checked out your build thread, that was great! The vids were good too. There’s some weight dynamics going on with the boat in the turns. It’s screaming a message at me! There was an Unlimited built very similar to this boat.. It had weight transfer issues.

  18. #138
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    Probably best not to get into that discussion in this thread though. But I would like to hear your thinking on it.
    Last edited by 785boats; 11-16-2017 at 01:31 PM.

  19. #139
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    OK
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Agreed. I’ll PM you...

  20. #140
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Wanted to share a few pictures of my Stealthwake that I've been working on today. Getting it ready for indoor pool racing next weekend. We're limited to a 2S battery, no larger than a 45mm plastic props, and a max length of 34" offshore style hulls.

    I borrowed my Leopard 2850 3580kV motor from my Offshore Infinity and modified the existing motor mount to accept a 25mm hole spacing. While modifying the mount, I realized it was the same mount used in my Zelos 36, funny, but it makes sense that they reuse as many parts as possible. The stock boat uses a 3mm solid shaft so I ordered a 4mm to 3mm brass coupler from Amazon and it spins surprisingly true. The holes are bored dead on to the advertised diameters. The only downside, it shipped with the wrong size grub screws so I had to order some M4 x 3mm stainless flat bottom grub screws from McMaster Carr. They'll be here Monday.

    The stock boat uses 1/8" (3.175mm) bore props, but as I mentioned, the solid shaft is actually 3mm. I shimmed the prop shaft behind the drive dog with three wraps of scotch tape. The 1/8" to 3/16" prop adapter not fits snugly with no wobble. Luckily my 3/16" plastic 38mm prop slides right over the adapter with no slop either. I have no idea if 38mm is the right prop as this boat has never been run in this configuration and all the water outside is frozen solid. I've got 32mm, 35mm, 40mm, and 42mm plastic props to use as well if needed. Heats are 3min long, so who knows. Arrover did most of his 2S runs on 45mm sized props, but at a much slower RPM using an 1800kV motor. I'll be spinning faster than he was on 3S, so it seems obvious I need to be smaller than 45mm in diameter.

    Finally, the stock rudder was a sloppy mess. I had an unused Speedmaster mini rudder from a Delta Force 26 project that hasn't been started, and it was the perfect size. I centered the mount directly over the existing pushrod hole, marked up the transom, and drilled four new holes. It bolted up easily and I used silicone caulk to seal up the old mounting holes for now. The stock boat has a through hull water pickup under the hull that I'm using for cooling, so the water inlet in the Speedmaster rudder won't be connected to anything for now. I had considered capping it off, but decided to leave it open in the hopes it squirts water straight up like a Yamaha jetski.

    It's been covered before that the stock driveline angle is less than optimal for speed, but I'm choosing to do nothing with it for this quick build. The races are not all that serious, so I'm more concerned about making it the full 3min without sinking vs. ride attitude. I had considered raising the stuffing tube exit hole in the transom, but because its a solid shaft, I would have to redo the motor mount inside the hull to match the angle. Too much work. There's another pool event in February, and maybe I'll redo the drive line with a flex cable then.

    2018-01-05 16.10.58.jpg 2018-01-05 16.11.16.jpg 2018-01-05 16.11.34.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  21. #141
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Just about finished with my Joysway Offshore Infinity project that always seems to get pushed aside for something else. I made a new mounting plate out of carbon for the steering servo and new, larger ESC. I relocated the battery mount rearward and up against the side of the flood chamber. I'll be running a Turnigy 3S 2200mAh battery which gits perfectly. I also cutout a support rib for the right side of the hull to brace the side of the hatch opening that used to deflect easily and cause a leak when the hatch was on. All of the hardware has been remounted. The turn fin was repositioned to be square with the bottom of the hull and the trim tabs were trimmed and raised about 1/16" above the bottom of the transom. I need to make a grommet for the hole where the cooling hose passes through the transom to keep water out and make a very thin seal for the hatch opening. Hope to have it in the water this week.

    2018-03-26 10.08.00.jpg 2018-03-26 10.08.38.jpg 2018-03-26 10.09.09.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  22. #142
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    638

    Default

    Don’t know how to post a pic yet but moved a SF ESC into my grandsons mean machine ,got it all hooked up ,just need to bind the spectrum radio in the other boys revolt and their boats are ready ,

  23. #143
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    2,908

    Default

    Replaced the two motors with TP 1570kv 4050's
    New custom coolers from HamR/C 70mm long left and right water inputs.
    and new plugs all around.

    Larry
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
    Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet

  24. #144
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Started installing my rear motor support rings in the Zelos to support the heavier motors. Modified the motor wire trim to make room for the ring and water jacket. Don't have a millimeter to spare. Tacked the bottom portion of the mount in with 5min epoxy. Once that sets, I'll pull everything out, do some light sanding, mask, and glue it in with dyed JB Weld.

    Only had the boat on one time last spring after the electronics overhaul. One of the motors shifted and the wire drive sheared at the collet. This will stop that from happening and hopefully I'll get the boat back in the water this season.

    2019-04-07 14.27.41.jpg 2019-04-07 14.28.30.jpg
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  25. #145
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    166

    Default

    For the last 3 days I've been conditioning some new SMC 3s 5400mah 90c lipo cells for my Sonicwake.
    I have to say it's just a little more exciting than watching paint dry.

  26. #146
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    Watching & listening to lipos charge is one of my favorite past times.
    I've gotta get a life.

    Happy Easter mate.

  27. #147
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    4,100

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    Watching & listening to lipos charge is one of my favorite past times.
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  28. #148
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    166

    Default

    Paul,
    From what I've seen you post your life is a pretty good one
    Happy Easter to you too mate.

  29. #149
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Ql
    Posts
    3,169

    Default

    Yeah! I can't complain.
    So in keeping with the theme of the thread, I've decided to do some maintenance on a few boats.


    This morning I replaced a set of bushes in my little Restricted mono. Well, I say replaced, but the rear bush in the strut just wasn't there. Totally gone.
    Since the bushes are only about 5mm long I put two in the front & two in the rear. Feels a lot better now.

    I also set up another car heater demister unit to discharge 6s packs. This one is a 300w unit at 24v, so a bit less on 22v. Still, it will bring down a 6s pack reasonably quickly.

    The rear end of the Rocket, my restricted mono.
    001.jpg

    The 300w fan heater discharger (on the right).
    003.jpg

  30. #150
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    166

    Default

    Paul,
    What size prop are you running on that Rocket?

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst ... 34567 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •