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Thread: HPR 115(Average White Boat)

  1. #1
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    Default HPR 115(Average White Boat)

    Since I have had some free time with all the cold/snow we have had this winter I finally got a start on my HPR 115 Bullitproof Edition.
    I got this as a 'complete Kit' from Keith.
    It had motor mounts, stingers, rudder, servo mount, assorted cloth and a bag of Cabosil.
    I have added a pair of Lehner 2250/7's and Swordfish 300 Lite's.



    Sorry I did not get a pic of the hull prior to taping


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    So first some ESC prep! I removed shrink wrap, removed the stupid flimsy crossover tube, drilled the brass water tube out on that end (to 7/32"), then soldered on a bigger brass tube to accommodate my 4mm ID tube. Then I started on my caps thru the advice of a certain Aussie friend:


  3. #3
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    Stupid question, but are there two sets of battery wires going into that ESC? Do I assume correctly that is done so you can run batteries in series, or is that part of the way you connected the cap banks?
    NEVER SATISFIED RACING
    Fine Design 32 V-Hull 4082+6s

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamelesstgr View Post
    Stupid question, but are there two sets of battery wires going into that ESC? Do I assume correctly that is done so you can run batteries in series, or is that part of the way you connected the cap banks?
    There are two PITA 8g wires going in to the ESC. I have not really figured how I am going to get them in to a 8mm connector. I have to pair the reds and blacks in one connector. Certainly going to be a tsk depending how
    I want it to sit in the boat.

  5. #5
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    With my 300A lites I used 10mm bullets and fit 2 wires per single bullet connector, then the other end of that connector soldered with a single 8G wire into the lipo connectors, in my case it was 8mm bullets. It came out very clean and 10mm bullets are the best for having the least resistance. You can try and fit 2 of those wires into a single 8mm which is really inefficient and will be a mess with the solder all around it. I can't imagine anything smaller than 8mm. I think the reason there are 4 wires is to decrease resistance and heat mainly, and also allow for a parallel connection (or in series).

  6. #6
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    Lookin' good Shawn! I like the cap banks you made. I better get a few more mph's outta my boat before I lose the speed title for good once your's hits the water! Really excited for this boat and watching it all unfold.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone-Wolf View Post
    Lookin' good Shawn! I like the cap banks you made. I better get a few more mph's outta my boat before I lose the speed title for good once your's hits the water! Really excited for this boat and watching it all unfold.
    I haven't put the Fantasm back in the water yet

    Shaddix, I may use that plan. I was going to go 8mm-8mm with soldered parallel connectors(possibly replated in gold).

  8. #8
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    Speed title? Maybe in Canada..lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by jim82 View Post
    Speed title? Maybe in Canada..lol
    Was an inside joke as we're both currently at 117mph...not for long!

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    I laugh because Yanks think we are stupid.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone-Wolf View Post
    Was an inside joke as we're both currently at 117mph...not for long!
    You are likely to beat me Steve. Not really any clear water for me

  12. #12
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    Yeah but when water clears and she's dialed in...honestly looking forward to it...but no pressure buddy ;-)

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    So next was the deck stringers that I am doing on all my cats now. This totally adds rigidity at a minimal sacrifice of weight. I used 1.3mm CF for this



    I have been simply epoxy'ing them in but this time I tried a 'cloth'd in' approach by tacking some cloth with epoxy, letting that stand for 6 or so hours and then flipping them in and wetting it all out



    This turned out pretty well


  14. #14
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    Why not just do a full inlay?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheShaddix View Post
    Why not just do a full inlay?
    It has one from HPR, and seams doubled. I did this to my Fantasm which is on its fourth year(or fifth), with I don't know how many crashes and it is still fine. This takes the possibility of the deck flexing out of the equation. I also do it to my monos.

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    Quote Originally Posted by srislash View Post
    It has one from HPR, and seams doubled. I did this to my Fantasm which is on its fourth year(or fifth), with I don't know how many crashes and it is still fine. This takes the possibility of the deck flexing out of the equation. I also do it to my monos.
    All your extra precautions will pay dividends down the road as you know. All my hulls that have layups seem like they could easily do with more.

    Lookin' good!

  17. #17
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    Nice looking set up like the stringer supports that way will try that in my 92 instead of cross support looks much better.

  18. #18
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    What epoxy do use use for the cf tryed some two part but it didn't hold on 3mm sheet ordered some zap to try. didnt cloth those parts just was checking out some things.

  19. #19
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    West systems epoxy


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  20. #20
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    Thank you for the reply i will get some.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by rad35 View Post
    Thank you for the reply i will get some.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
    And sand all parts/areas so the epoxy has something to hold. 80-120 grit is fine

    BTW, I use SystemThree Laminating Epoxy(SilverTip)

  22. #22
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    Ok will do thanks gotta go to florida for a week can get epoxy and try when i get back home

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by rad35 View Post
    Ok will do thanks gotta go to florida for a week can get epoxy and try when i get back home

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
    Either epoxy mentioned will do the job well. I would think this a good improvement on a hull that big if you are going to push it.

  24. #24
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    Have been looking forward to this build for quite some time, sometimes when the lake ices over its a good thing forces you to build lol.

    I like the stringers, need to do some thinking about bulkheads for some of my boats too. Did one a few years ago on a super daytona and it really helped out.

  25. #25
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    Do u foam the sponson tip's with foam also or no? On my esc's sf 300pro + i used the Hifei cap packs solder the 4 wires on the back has 8mm bullets for wire connections on the front for battery's easy setup for parallel or series setup. unless those cap banks aren't good???

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rad35 View Post
    Do u foam the sponson tip's with foam also or no? On my esc's sf 300pro + i used the Hifei cap packs solder the 4 wires on the back has 8mm bullets for wire connections on the front for battery's easy setup for parallel or series setup. unless those cap banks aren't good???
    Ah' I didn't think of that. But my space is going to be tight as I am putting the esc's in the sponsons. But I will investigate!

    As far as foam, this is still weighing in my head. I have two new Kintec foam kits here so I think i will. I am leaning that way. I did it on the last couple boats.

  27. #27
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    So onto the good stuff: DRIVES!!!

    I was thinking this was going to be a simple 'drill and install' but upon drilling my holes for the drives I discovered how thin the layup was here



    So transom doublers had to be installed. It required two thinner pieces as one had to level the area and the final covered the whole area.


  28. #28
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    And installed/drilled


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    So all installed





    My apologies that i did not take pics of the method for squaring the pedestals, the next time th boat is upside down I'll take a pic and put here. But what I did was run two K&S tubes thru the bearings within the drives extending rearward the length of said tubes. You can then measure the distance between them front and back to maintain square drives. Use a marker to dot the pedestal holes and there you go.

  30. #30
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    Lookin' good Shawn, the transom doublers look awesome.

    I've always been a fan of adding a doubler at the transom definitely adds some support for the stuffing tube too.

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